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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I will soon be headed back to WY pulling a toy hauler, total weight 5,219. I realize this will be a slow going trip, which is fine. I bought it for next to nothing so I knew it needed work. Quickly becoming a mechanic that, until I got her had zero mechanical skills outside of changing a tire/oil. My daddy made me know that before getting a DL, that and I had to learn to drive in a 3 on the column because he said I could drive anything if I could drive that old 50' Ford pickup. Point, I need your lovely RRC knowledge as I have to do this work myself since daddy is no longer around. I have done the stuff below so far but realize after getting into it that another thing needs to be done that could have been done while I had it all apart. Please let me know

95' LWB 4.2

What I have changed thus far
Radiator
Distributor/plugs/wires
Changed the oil/filter/plug/air filter/fuel filter
Changed all the fluids except brakes because Im still not sure about the whole bleeding them process.
Fan
Belt (almost killed me putting back on)
3- Batteries (I still have a drain somewhere that I have not been able to trace. I put on a switch and just cut all power when I get out now)
Battery cable thingies
Pipe to manifold seal - both
Air damper
Shocks
Tires
All new relays as I don't know how to tell good/bad.
Did all the bad fuses
Distributor, wires, plugs

CODES
I have yet to get any code other than 2 on my lil black box. I even had my friend drive it up the driveway with me hanging out the door to see if it gave one while moving. I think it may be broken as it should be giving me something else with all of my issues.

BRAKES
I have hard brakes, like my whole lil 120# self has to sometimes standup in the seat to push down to avoid killing myself, that is in addition to pulling the emergency brake. I noticed my lil ABS Pump no longer comes on so, I figure that is the issue. The brake light is on but it has been on since I bought it and the brakes worked just fine so, I just ignored it. I can order another one however, I was reading in here somewhere that I could just not have ABS at all. Should I just loose the ABS or is it better to just replace the pump?

SUSPENSION
With the new tires that went from 235 to 245 they are really close to rubbing. I was planning on changing over the medium duty coils to the heavy duty ones since I will be pulling the toy hauler to WY. The shocks were way bad, one actually just complete died on me on the way back from picking up the new ones from UPS. It already had the conversion kit put on it so no air suspension anymore. My question is, will the new coils be enough to lift it up for pulling the hauler or should I go ahead and get the 2" hockey puck looking lift thingies? If I get the lift thingies will I need to change out other things at the same time? It would be really nice to know since had I known I could have done all of this and the shocks at once. I will be replacing the swivel ball seal things when I change the coils as well as the tie rod ends because they are leaking something out of them.

EXHAUST
The Cats/Mufflers are bad. I read in here somewhere I can just run straight pipe, that the Cat makes the engine work harder? I have no inspections either state I live so that is not an issue. I read elsewhere about removing the muffler. What are the cons, aside from noise, on that? Seems it would be easier for me to just have to run straight pipes rather than having to cut out and then weld together different parts. Im not confident in my non-welding skills.

IGNITION KEY
It comes out on rare occasions. I was told I need a new ignition switch but that it had to be done by a LR dealer, something to do with codes.

TRANNY/4WHEEL DREIVE
Tranny seems fine. Shifts as it should in H however, it will not go into L. The shifter itself is stuck. I took it apart, cleaned it all out. Doesn't appear anything has been spilt/sticky. There was some dog hair down in there but now it is all clean and no matter how hard I try, it wont cooperate with me. Is there like a top secret, ninja move I need to know about to get it to move?

Sorry for the long post but easier I figure to get it all in one place. Thank you!
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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341 Posts
You don't need the ABS part of the system to work, just the pump to run and pressurize the system which it's very very good at doing. First check for relay function, otherwise buy a new pump motor and bleed the system. If braking is still intermittent you'll either need a new accumulator or pressure switch. Probably a good time to change your brake light switch too.


Linkage on the transfer case itself is probably stuck. Get under the truck and try to free it.

Only consequence to going catless is it's bad for the trees and birds and people.
 

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910 Posts
On the transfer case shifter in the 95
I believe it has a shift locking solenoid in the shifter ...you would need to remove the shifter from the transmission to remove the solenoid..
You would need to pull the transmission tunnel shifter cover to get to it.....maybe save that for a later investigation...


The cats.... Mine are off and ... it does make the motor run smoother...
But if you want to keep them you can get the whole exhaust with cats from British Atlantic ... price not terrible...
The brakes ... I would make sure they are bleed ...,start with the passenger rear wheel .. the driver rear... passenger front .. then drivers....
You can do this yourself... by takeing a piece of vacuum hose and putting it on the bleeder screw after you loosen it.. put the other end into a bottle of brake fluid... so as you pump the brakes it will push the fluid into the bottle and replace the air with fluid ... makeing sure you keep adding fluid to the resivor as you pump the fluid out...
Do this to each wheel...it is time consuming but works for me...
when I work on things I like to be alone
So I only hear one voice...
Or have someone help you.. an eather or
Kinda thing...
as for the muffler...I like the quieter sound...I don’t know how it would sound with straight pipes with maybe a silencer at the end...
... I hope you have good luck on you long trip back to Wyoming...
Good luck
Mike
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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147 Posts
I think this might be a solution your transfer case problem, it's probably that safety lockout solenoid that failed.


Removing the cats is fine, but I really wouldn't run straight pipes, a V8 with no muffler is LOUD. The droning on the freeway would likely be enough to give you a headache in minutes. No need to go with a genuine land rover exhaust, a generic dynamax or magnaflow or flowmaster (louder) can be dressed in by any exhaust shop for less than $200. I have a Flowmaster pro series on mine and it sounds great, with no drone (although it would be louder if there were no cats). If you do go with straight pipes, I recommend discussing it with a good exhaust shop, as the design of the system is important. If there is no restriction in the system and the pipes are too large, exhaust velocities drop and the flow becomes turbulent, which can rob you of some power. (You can lose the cats, but I'd keep a muffler)

In terms of springs, something to consider is the ride with the heavy duty springs. If your concerned about towing, I'd recommend looking into putting an AirLift kit in the rear springs. That way you can keep the normal springs (so it doesn't bounce around like a pogo stick and ride like an old oxcart) but you can add extra load carrying capacity by airing them up whenever you need to tow. They've worked great for me, 5psi normally around town and it rides just as good as ever, then 25-30psi when it's loaded with camping gear and such, and it rides just as nicely. It's cheaper than new springs too. This is the set that fits.



Now for the codes, the little black box doesn't cycle through codes, it only shows the "most important" code, and it won't display any others until that code is cleared/fixed, then it displays the "next most important" code, and so on. Also, the codes will only reset/clear by pulling power to the computer. The thing is, the computer takes a while to reestablish its happy place after it loses power, so after killing power to the computer, the ONLY code you will ever see is code 02, which is the "ECU power interrupted" code. It often can take multiple engine on/off cycles and a handful of miles before a code comes up (some are instant, others take a good long while). So if you keep killing all power to the car every time you shut it off, you will never see any codes other than 02, and the computer will never have time to run its diagnostic and tell you what's wrong. Hope this helps.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You don't need the ABS part of the system to work, just the pump to run and pressurize the system which it's very very good at doing. First check for relay function, otherwise buy a new pump motor and bleed the system. If braking is still intermittent you'll either need a new accumulator or pressure switch. Probably a good time to change your brake light switch too.

[/URL]

Linkage on the transfer case itself is probably stuck. Get under the truck and try to free it.

Only consequence to going catless is it's bad for the trees and birds and people.

You don't need the ABS part of the system to work, just the pump to run and pressurize the system which it's very very good at doing. First check for relay function, otherwise buy a new pump motor and bleed the system. If braking is still intermittent you'll either need a new accumulator or pressure switch. Probably a good time to change your brake light switch too.

[/URL]

Linkage on the transfer case itself is probably stuck. Get under the truck and try to free it.

Only consequence to going catless is it's bad for the trees and birds and people.
You don't need the ABS part of the system to work, just the pump to run and pressurize the system which it's very very good at doing. First check for relay function, otherwise buy a new pump motor and bleed the system. If braking is still intermittent you'll either need a new accumulator or pressure switch. Probably a good time to change your brake light switch too.


Linkage on the transfer case itself is probably stuck. Get under the truck and try to free it.

Only consequence to going catless is it's bad for the trees and birds and people.
Thank you for the advice, I will stick with the ABS then and order that there part you said. Would you please clarify for me, "You don't need the ABS part of the system to work" I have replaced all relays however, the lil part where they plug in under the drivers seat had, at some point been wet as the relays where corroded. I cleaned it up best I could and replaced all 3 relays.
 

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Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
On the transfer case shifter in the 95
I believe it has a shift locking solenoid in the shifter ...you would need to remove the shifter from the transmission to remove the solenoid..
You would need to pull the transmission tunnel shifter cover to get to it.....maybe save that for a later investigation...


The cats.... Mine are off and ... it does make the motor run smoother...
But if you want to keep them you can get the whole exhaust with cats from British Atlantic ... price not terrible...
The brakes ... I would make sure they are bleed ...,start with the passenger rear wheel .. the driver rear... passenger front .. then drivers....
You can do this yourself... by takeing a piece of vacuum hose and putting it on the bleeder screw after you loosen it.. put the other end into a bottle of brake fluid... so as you pump the brakes it will push the fluid into the bottle and replace the air with fluid ... makeing sure you keep adding fluid to the resivor as you pump the fluid out...
Do this to each wheel...it is time consuming but works for me...
when I work on things I like to be alone
So I only hear one voice...
Or have someone help you.. an eather or
Kinda thing...
as for the muffler...I like the quieter sound...I don’t know how it would sound with straight pipes with maybe a silencer at the end...
... I hope you have good luck on you long trip back to Wyoming...
Good luck
Mike
Thank you. I will go ahead and loose the cats then if it makes the motor smoother. I will have to watch a video or three on bleeding the brakes and just go for it. Easier for me now since you explained it better for me. Yeah, the only other voice I hear up here at my place is the other one in my head saying "are you sure you can put it back together again" ;) I will sticking with the muffler as it is long trip with the trailer if having to listen to it nonstop. I think at this juncture in my mechanic adventure the transfer case may be something for someone else to do for me.
 

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Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I think this might be a solution your transfer case problem, it's probably that safety lockout solenoid that failed.


Removing the cats is fine, but I really wouldn't run straight pipes, a V8 with no muffler is LOUD. The droning on the freeway would likely be enough to give you a headache in minutes. No need to go with a genuine land rover exhaust, a generic dynamax or magnaflow or flowmaster (louder) can be dressed in by any exhaust shop for less than $200. I have a Flowmaster pro series on mine and it sounds great, with no drone (although it would be louder if there were no cats). If you do go with straight pipes, I recommend discussing it with a good exhaust shop, as the design of the system is important. If there is no restriction in the system and the pipes are too large, exhaust velocities drop and the flow becomes turbulent, which can rob you of some power. (You can lose the cats, but I'd keep a muffler)

In terms of springs, something to consider is the ride with the heavy duty springs. If your concerned about towing, I'd recommend looking into putting an AirLift kit in the rear springs. That way you can keep the normal springs (so it doesn't bounce around like a pogo stick and ride like an old oxcart) but you can add extra load carrying capacity by airing them up whenever you need to tow. They've worked great for me, 5psi normally around town and it rides just as good as ever, then 25-30psi when it's loaded with camping gear and such, and it rides just as nicely. It's cheaper than new springs too. This is the set that fits.



Now for the codes, the little black box doesn't cycle through codes, it only shows the "most important" code, and it won't display any others until that code is cleared/fixed, then it displays the "next most important" code, and so on. Also, the codes will only reset/clear by pulling power to the computer. The thing is, the computer takes a while to reestablish its happy place after it loses power, so after killing power to the computer, the ONLY code you will ever see is code 02, which is the "ECU power interrupted" code. It often can take multiple engine on/off cycles and a handful of miles before a code comes up (some are instant, others take a good long while). So if you keep killing all power to the car every time you shut it off, you will never see any codes other than 02, and the computer will never have time to run its diagnostic and tell you what's wrong. Hope this helps.
Thank ya, thank ya. I now have a much better understanding on the not shifting issue. I will take a look but that may just be a "real" mechanic issue. No doubt I can get out, getting it back together may be an issue for me. I am one of those people that takes things apart and then has an extra piece or three when put back together again. I just ordered the airlift kit thingie so one issue soon to be resolved, thanks! I will keep the mufflers, loose the cats. You guys agree that it will be loud and Im not trying to loose any power. I'm also not for loud all the way back to WY pulling a trailer. Not just WY, I'm also one of those people that can leave for the grocery store and end up in Key West. I am easily distracted/detoured. I think my battery drain issue may be related to the key shifter thing since my key rarer than rarely comes out. I found a replacement for that so hopefully that resolves that issue. If it does, then maybe my lil black code box will tell me something new. Before long though, most everything on her will be new. Thanks again for the help!
 
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