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Hey, My air conditioner has started to blow warm air. Everything seemed to be working fine (blower motors, compressor, etc) so I decided to add some refrigerant to the low side port. I added two cans when I realized that I could have potentially done something worse as the compressor clutch stopped. When I start the car, the compressor engages and spins for about thirty seconds before switching off.. I decided to stop being an expert and schedule an appointment to have it properly fixed when I retunred home from vacation. Well I got back home today and took my car to the carwash. After it was finished the AC was working again... (but barely). The air is cool not cold, and the compressor seems to be working again. I noticed that the high side piping is ic cold while the low side is warm (i thought it was supposed to be the opposite). Anyone have any ideas as to whats going on here before I spend way too much money for cold air?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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You put in TWO cans? Were you using a gauge? You can overcharge the system you know. :think:

Just for fun, with the car running, put the a/c on LO, then HI, then LO, then HI...waiting a bit for the blend motors to move between each progression. There's a very very very small chance they froze up on you...small... and this could (very small chance) free them up.

You can always get it checked at one of those free a/c inspection places. That's easy enough to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey thanks for getting back to me. I tried your idea but I'm still getting the same mildly cool air. I used a guage to avoid overcharging the system but it's really anyones guess as to what I did to this thing. Am I right that it is not normal for the thinner high side pipe to be ice cold or for the low side to be hot when the AC is on?
 

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I used a gauge on mine and it really helped! I ended up using 4 cans though, but that was for a fully drained system. BTW my compressor cycles for 30 seconds or so and then switches off. I would take it to a local mechanic and have them recharge the system for you, just in case you did overcharge it. Its an A/C system, nothing new they haven't seen before, and they only charge about 80 to $100. I think this is a blend motor problem like kmag stated.
 

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You can't just add refigerant by the bottle and expect it to work! If it does work you have been very lucky. To do it properly you need to extract any remaining refrigerant with a vacuum pump along with any air - that is essential as air in the system makes it dangerous. You then need to add a small amount of PAG oil to compensate for the oil that is lost when the gas escapes - I usually add around 30 ccs or so and blow it in the LP line (the big one) with a small amount of R134a - enough to allow the pressure switch to allow the system to run. Run for a couple of minutes and then switch off and extract all the gas & air again until you have a good vaccum. You then need to add a precise amount of R134a by weight (1100 gms =/-50gms on my P38 2.5 DSE) using electronic scales - the weight is shown on the plate under the bonnet - add it slowly (to avoid damaging the compressor) with the engine running and allow the system to pull it in - you can see it being pulled in if you use a proper guage set. If you have used suitable refrigerant guage manifold and made sure that no air has entered when you finally regassed, the system will work fine. The clutch will cycle in and out which is quite normal to control temperature and the LP line will be cold and the HP line (small one) warm or even hot. The temperature of the air coming out of the central vent in the cabin should be around 5 degrees C which can be checked with an electronic probe on a suitable meter. When doing all this, the aircon temp should be set at minimum. If attempting this yourself, take extreme care as liquid refrigerant can blind you if it hits you in the eyes and it will freeze-burn you if it hits you on the hand or skin etc. The job is easy to do if you have thr right fittings and equipment - you don't need the fancy automotive regassing equipment but you do need to make sure you know what you are doing if using manual equipment (do a little research on regassing on the web). This advice is given without any liability being accepted. Use it at your own risk.

Richard
http://www.richardbufton.co.uk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your replies. I was able to get this fixed today with the help of a friend who is much more mechanically inclined than I am and who had all the the tools and gauges necessary. There are two reasons that my air conditioner failed. The first is that there is a slow leak near the evaporator core, and the second is that i used a product called "super seal" when adding the refrigerant. The stop leak clogged the low side line and when the gauages were set up, there was 0 pressure on the low side and normal pressure on the high side. My friend was able to "unclog," for lack of a better word, the low side line and evacuate all of the freon and and air from the system. He then added the appropriate amount of freon back in and the air conditioner is working perfectly... Until it inevitably leaks out again. I still need to get the leak properly fixed, but that is on the back burner for now. Thanks again for all your help everyone.
 

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GOt exactly the same issue - 97 4.0 no AC when I bought her 18 mths ago and thought I'd see if I could retrieve for not a lot - just fitted a new condensing rad - old had holes in top left, new condenser and PAG46 oil + new engine bay seals - added some 134a via a 15kg bottle i bought a couple of years ago for another car then fired her up not expecting a lot as I'd no way of removing air or moisture in the lines. Compressor immediately started so carried on adding gas with regular checks on the pressure with a DIY pressure gauge - took ages and i mean 40 mins for it to get to the 'filled' portion of the gauge - 25 - 45 psi - well proud but when I went for a run it was obvious the system is cycling every 30 seconds or so - when the compressor is OFF pressure is nudging into the 'alert' part of the gauge = 45 - 65 psi when it restarts it settles at 25-30 psi ie within the 'filled' portion of the gauge - looks as if I need to get professional help ((OK some would say that anyway!!)) and have the existing gas / oil removed, air/moisture vacced out and gas replenished
 

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I have an issue with my AC. The AC and heat work perfectly fine but it seems like when i try to turn the speed up higher, it doesn't get as high as it should. I was wondering what could be the problem with the speed not reaching its peak
 

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Hi

If you do not get enough air from the vents and you put the fans in high speed mode, most likely one if your fans does not work. Open the pollen filters and look inside you will see the fans working. If you find one of your fans not working you will also notice that air is blowing out from the filter inlet opening. This is the air from the other fan.

If the fan is faulty dismantle it from the car and take it apart. Look at the condition of the carbon brushes and change if these are worn. If the electronics have loose connector desolder and drill out the rivits to take it apart and solder the connector properly then assemble with bolts and heat conducting paste and resolder the unit.

Good luck

Jos
 

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I received a 2 quotes to replace my AC Compressor, Drier and TXV for USD $3200 and $3800 respectively. Both shops said that I should replace all components as there could be debris in the line. I sourced the parts from Atlantic British and saved a few $$ but they won't warranty the parts. The price quoted just seemed too high. Is there anyone who would not replace the expansion valve (txv) to save money on the labor, or should I just bite the bullet and replace all?

Thanks!
Randy
 

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have you checked for system errors , has the book symbol appeared on the HEVAC screen , mine runs hot because the left hand blower motor has stopped?
 

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I received a 2 quotes to replace my AC Compressor, Drier and TXV for USD $3200 and $3800 respectively. Both shops said that I should replace all components as there could be debris in the line. I sourced the parts from Atlantic British and saved a few $$ but they won't warranty the parts. The price quoted just seemed too high. Is there anyone who would not replace the expansion valve (txv) to save money on the labor, or should I just bite the bullet and replace all?

Thanks!
Randy
You have failed to tell us any of the symptoms or reasoning behind going to the shops.......
If you do so, possibly we can help narrow down the issue?
If not, I would go to an AC shop that will fix the problem instead of ripping you off......You will only have "Debris in the line" if the compressor has self destructed.
If the system has been exposed to atmosphere, then a new drier/ filter is in line.
The rest should be fine.....More details?
 
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