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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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5,470 Posts
Hoges said:
I take my hat off to you Sir! :thumb: Got an open circuit fault on one of the dreaded blend motors...yes the one on the left (passenger's side (RHD)) BUT: I'll be damned if I can work out how to get to it...I've removed the glove box, side panels etc and can see that the motor is behind the duct...but how to get around it?
I've just removed mine. Remove the two screws securing the duct to the heater case. Disconnect the duct at the rear end where if feeds the rear air ducts. Then a long screwdriver will pass the duct and reach the screws.

I can take pics tomorrow when I reassemble it.

BTW, the distribution flap moves quite freely on mine so I probably don't need the screw..
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Planning to do the blend motors next month along with some other dash issues so going to be a dash out job. Considering doing a video as well as photo of the whole job. Watch this space!!!
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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5,470 Posts
p38arover said:
Hoges said:
I take my hat off to you Sir! :thumb: Got an open circuit fault on one of the dreaded blend motors...yes the one on the left (passenger's side (RHD)) BUT: I'll be damned if I can work out how to get to it...I've removed the glove box, side panels etc and can see that the motor is behind the duct...but how to get around it?
I've just removed mine. Remove the two screws securing the duct to the heater case. Disconnect the duct at the rear end where if feeds the rear air ducts. Then a long screwdriver will pass the duct and reach the screws.


 

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Keyhole surgery is possible! :D

First prise off the level indicator cover. I did this by using a Swiss Army knife blade with the 'flat tyre' switch depressed and carefully levered the cover off.

Next, slide a couple of sturdy feeler guage blades top and bottom in the centre of the unit, not the rocker switch - you'll feel the resistance.

Pull the accessible side of the rocker switch and the unit will come away. It may need a bit of a wiggle and I also prised the other side forward with my trusty knife blade.

You do need some narrow long reach pliers to remove the clip (or I suppose you could just ping it off as you won't need it again)

Seperating the two halves is a bit difficult as you can't slacken off the retaining bolts but I just sliced a hole big enough for a screwdriver blade and twisted - gently or you'll just rip the housing (hence mine now has two screwdriver holes :oops: )

In goes the S/T and your'e done! :clap:
 

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Step 5 states: "Carefully remove the radio surround taking care not to snap the retaining clips (not a problem with mine as they went long ago!) and remove the 4 remaining screws holding the switch pack to the dash."

Along with the photo attached.

Can someone please indicate where the 4 screws are located in the photo? I only see the one, with the arrow.

Thank you.
 

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Administrator
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Have a look in RAVE. It has a full picture breakdown on removing your switch panel.
 

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Thank you rrtoadhall. I've since searched for and downloaded "Rave", which seems to indicate that removal of the radio head to gain access to the remaining screws is needed. The reason for my confusion was that the pictures this thread shows are of the switch pack removed with the radio head still in place... Anyway, thank you.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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2,032 Posts
just did this to mine because it was stuck in freezer mode!

worked great! Thanks
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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20 Posts
Pictures would be great, I have the whole dash dismantled right now, replaced the dis blend motor but it still stalls so wanted to try with the st screw but not sure really where to screw it.


thanks in advance
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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298 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I would willing repost the pictures but they were all stored on Webshots which, as you know, was bought out and the new owners closed the old servers down without telling a lot of people thus a huge amount of peoples' pictures were lost forever.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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30 Posts
Hey all

I will be attempting this at the weekend and will take photos and publish for everyones benefit in a new thread (assuming the job goes well)

I'm hoping it'll be obvious where to screw the self tapper - if anyone has any input before the weekend, let me know.

Photo's to follow.

Cheers
Rob
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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4 Posts
Hello Rob. I think I'd like to attempt the self tapper repair method soon too. Were you ever able to do it and get some pictures along the way?

Thanks,
Bill
 

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Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I did the fix recently and took some pics. Hope they will help someone. I found that by drilling the two holes carefully as shown in the photos, I was able to prise the two halves apart slightly which made inserting the screw much easier. Just seal the holes afterwards with a couple of drops of silicone gasket maker. For more detail, right click the photo and select "View Image".
 

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Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Screw size. Cant remember the actual size unfortunately.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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17 Posts
I have just put the S/T screw in mine today - all is now well, so thank you for all those who've gone before :clap:
All faults below are now cleared except 6.

(6) THE RIGHT HAND BLEND MOTOR POTENTIOMETER FEEDBACK CIRCUIT HAS FAILED.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)

(50) HEATER CORE TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)
(12) THE LEFT HAND BLEND MOTOR POTENTIOMETER FEEDBACK CIRCUIT HAS FAILED.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)
(17) THE DISTRIBUTION MOTOR FEEDBACK CIRCUIT IS FAULTY.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)

cheers,
Hoppy

 
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