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Discussion Starter #1
So I am in the process of resurrecting my 1984 (original Texas) Range Rover 4-door. It has the venerable 3.5 with carbs. The engine was partly disassembled but in really good condition (48k documented miles). I had the heads rebuild and have been replacing missing parts. I have also installed a Holley 350 instead of the 2x Stromberg 175.

Anyway one of the missing part was the original 35D Lucas distributor (35DLM8 I believe). So I replaced it with what seems to be to most common electronic unit for the Rover 3.5: Pertronix D175510.

All working fine (starts and runs) but when I check the mechanical advance it seems to not really want to advance as much as the Rover Spec. If it set the timing at 6 BTDC at about 600rpm it barely advances to 18 BTDC when I rev it. I need to set it to 12 BTDC to get it to run half decent (car not really road worthy so test run around the house).

First I though I had a faulty unit so I exchanged but the second one is exactly the same.

I have not really seen a lot of discussion about the Pertronix D175510. Has somebody experienced this and maybe experimented with alternative springs?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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I have not had much experience with aftermarket Dizzy's, but upon installation are you installing with engine at tdc or btdc?
if engine is at tdc then check that the weights are moving freely thru the full range. if all checks out the last resource would be replacing the
springs.
pertronix should have replacement on their website, if not check with aluminumv8.com they carry pertronix.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I never could get the Pertronix unit to work properly.

Granted, I was sorting through many issues at the time – but a consistent behavior was a solid dead spot off idle before accepting throttle.

I swapped to a moderately priced non-OEM unit and it was sorted.

I would really like to convert to a high output Mallory unit - however, it is running well and I am moving down the list of open issues. : )
 

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Also, try removing the plastic cap on the advance unit. They are optioned to retard/advance depending upon end use.

Removing the cap may proved for additional advance?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The plastic cap on the advance unit? You mean the little pipe cape on the inside of the vacuum advance? I will try that see if it makes a difference. I have taken my measurements with the vacuum line disconnected, but it might help on the driveability.

I am also going to check if my TDC mark is correct on the pulley. I cleaned the pulley and white marked the letters which makes it real easy to see, but I read that the markings can be off. That might explain why I need to advance it more than 6 deg BTDC to get it to run right.

I have also put in a technical inquiry at Pertronix asking if they can give me the advance curve so I can check it against the documented Rover curve.

I looked a just buying a second hand Lucas distributor, which are plenty available on Ebay, but I don't have the electronics and then I need to hack some solution which I am not too hot about (already too much to do on this car).
 

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Off topic, but as you have the same year as my (mostly) disassembled Classic, could you set out a picture of what your engine bay looks like? I'd like to start restoring my truck.. Doing transmission cooler lines today to new radiator from a D1.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Keralis, sure np will do as soon as I get it into the light (tomorrow).

On the subject of the Pertronix I DID receive a response from their tech team (which is really nice). They forwarded me the curve as tested in Excel. I added a typical Rover curve to compare (which actually a range so I took the middle and filled in the in between numbers to create a deceptively smooth line..)

Enclosed results:
D175510 curve.jpg

Clearly the curve as tested is about 2/3 from the Rover curve. I will ask if this can be improved with different springs. I am a little worried that the advance maxes out 14.5 deg which could mean the limit of the mechanical advance is reached.

to be continued
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well got a quick response back from Pertronix and no, you cannot buy a different set of springs. He suggested to retrofit a set of Lucas springs but I don't have that. I think I might just return it (Amazon) and buy a Lucas repro with Powerspark at SimonBBC in the UK. They are a bit more Land Rover orientated.

On a positive note I set it to 12 deg BTDC and drove around the house a few times and it does run much better if I keep it around 2000 rpm. AND it was a lot less hot, in fact it was very nice so I am a lot more positive about this restoration now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Responding to myself here, but I am just capturing some research for any future reference for others.

So some more desktop research: I found on the BritishV8 website (http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Selecting-a-Rover-Distributor.htm) the following quote "The Rover engine advance curve needs a 24 degree range of advance: from 6 degrees at 600rpm and 8 to 12 degrees at 1000RPM to 30-34 degrees at 4000RPM and over, according to the needs of the camshaft, compression ratio etc. My new Pertronix-converted Delco only gave a range of 15 degrees! " unquote. This confirms my suspicion that the Pertronix is not a drop in replacement for the Rover V8. BritishV8 then proceeds to explain how to modify, but I ain't gonna modify a brand new distributor instead I will just send it back.

I have purchased a SimonBBC distributor (http://www.simonbbc.com/distributors/8cyl-distributors/land-rover-discovery-v8-distributor-rover-35dlm8). It is a different source and design which is suppose to be a closer match to the Lucas original.

Obviously it requires shipping so I will report back when I have received, installed and tested that unit.
 

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as my signature states I have a 95 classic, at nearly 300,000 miles my factory dizzy is getting tired. due to lack of proper replacement parts and the high cost of the few available, I have opted for distributor less conversion. in case you may want to visit said option my supplier is/was "trigger wheels".
I have not installed but have received the kit and seems easy to install and program. on the plus side it modernizes the vehicle some what.
 

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For what it's worth I have a D174510 in my 94 RRC. It dropped right in and I'm using a regular Bosch Coil. I'm not sure how it is for other models, but the D174510 uses the same rotor and cap as the original distributor which makes replacing them straight forward. As far as timing goes, I set it a few degrees more than what the book says, but that is probably just how my engine wants to run. I like the Pertronix, seems to do a good job, my engine has pep and I can run on the highway or around town all day.
 
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