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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2002 4.6 HSE about a month ago with an EAS fault that had been sitting for about a month. The last owner said that the dealership diagnosed the problem as a bad rear right air bag but he didn't have paperwork stating that so who really knows. He also had the shade tree repair shop across the street from his building look at it and claimed that the compressor was good (which I found out, unsurprisingly, to be false). The first thing I did was get the EAS software and cable and read the codes and got Fl, FR and RL signal incorrect (quite possibly form the not so nice looking garage allowing the axles to dange on a lift), Vehicle has moved, and pressure constantly low. After clearing the codes the compressor wouldn't run so I had to manually trip it using the software and realized it was putting out next to no pressure so I rebuilt it. Once I did that the compressor would not fire on its own (possibly something with the thermal cut off switch?) and the rear rose past the high setting but the front didn't move at all. Next I figured that rebuilding the valve block couldn't hurt so i went ahead and did that and that didn't seem to change much. After that I read that unplugging and plugging back in the EAS ECU could do something to help with the height sensors so I did that with no real change. Something else that seems very strange to me is that when i turn off the car I can hear the solenoids clicking and it sounds like it is releasing all of the pressure form the relief valve. I didn't really notice that at first but once the compressor was rebuilt and pressure was actually being built up it definitely sounds as though as soon as the car is switched off it dumps all the pressure which is leading me to think that I may have an issue with the pressure switch. I have a few thoughts on what could be wrong but I am looking for some guidance. One thought I have is that the front bags could have become unseated if they were dangled from a lift by an inexperienced shop. Another thought I had would be the pressure switch or the driver pack but I'm fast running out of ideas. Any thoughts or ideas would be very appreciated and I'm sorry if this has been covered but I couldn't find any threads dealing with only 2 of the 4 cornors rising or the car purging its air supply.
Thank you for any help,
Tyler


 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #2
Thought I would update this thread with new information as I'm still experiencing the same issue of the front not rising.
- I have replaced all 4 air springs with gen 2 airnotts
- I have replaced the driver pack with a used one
- I have replaced the valve block with a used one (including a different driver pack)
- put a jack under all 4 corners and looked at the live readings from the height sensors and they do change values with changes in height
- swapped the relay under the hood with another one
Something else I noticed is that the front air springs do fill with air up to the access height but refuse to fill any further. I'm running out of things to swap out and the only things I haven't changed are the eas edu, height sensors, and the relay under the drivers seat. I think my next corse of action is to buy a second hand eas edu and try that out. I think I'm also going to order a emergency bypass kit for the mean time so I can get some driving time in. As always any thoughts or input would be most appreciated, or if there's another thread coving this (I'm sure there is but I can't find it) I would love to be pointed in that direction.
- Tyler
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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883 Posts
Is your tank up to pressure? I'd check the seal on it. The rear always raises first, so you may be running out of air.

I'd check that first. Then maybe the EAS ECU. Your height sensors sound fine.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
Is your tank up to pressure? I'd check the seal on it. The rear always raises first, so you may be running out of air.

I'd check that first. Then maybe the EAS ECU. Your height sensors sound fine.
I'm pretty sure my tank is up to pressure as my compressor is running strong (empty to cut off is 7 minutes) and after the tank fills up with a door open the compressor doesn't restart, after filling the back, leading me to believe that the tank is full. I also know that it's holding some air in the tank because when I swapped out the valve block today the air line to the tank was under quite a bit of pressure with the car sitting for about a week since it was last ran.


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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Is your tank up to pressure? I'd check the seal on it. The rear always raises first, so you may be running out of air.

I'd check that first. Then maybe the EAS ECU. Your height sensors sound fine.
pls clarify. Is there a seal at the tank?

rgds
 

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pls clarify. Is there a seal at the tank?

rgds
There no real seal at the tank, but there is a drainplug that needs to be sealed. And off course the O-rings on both sides of the airline between tank and valveblock.
 
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regarding the remarks about damage due to axles hanging when vehicle is lifted on the chassis.......

NOT true, the shocks determine how far the axle can go down and (in not modified state) that is not that far that bags can get unseated or heightsensors damaged.

I lift my P38's regularly on a 2 column lift with axles hanging, totaly no problem.

does your EAS software give you the opportunaty to manually open and close valves? if so, can you get the vehicle raised that way?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
regarding the remarks about damage due to axles hanging when vehicle is lifted on the chassis.......

NOT true, the shocks determine how far the axle can go down and (in not modified state) that is not that far that bags can get unseated or heightsensors damaged.

I lift my P38's regularly on a 2 column lift with axles hanging, totaly no problem.

does your EAS software give you the opportunaty to manually open and close valves? if so, can you get the vehicle raised that way?
The bags beings unseated are no longer a issue as I replaced all 4 but that's good to know. As for raising with the software I don't believe I can but if anyone else knows differently I would love to hear about it.


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Hi all,new to the forum and have been looking at so many pages I'm starting to imagine things. I haven't found an answer to two questions I have regarding a '97 4.6 r/r and they are if I change the air suspension with springs will I have the fault light on the dash still on and if so can I get rid of it ? And also does any one from Australia have any idea of the cost to have the conversion done ( near the Gold Coast) . Curious to have your thoughts on weather it is worth doing or should I just get the air suspension fixed. Thanks
 

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Hi all,new to the forum and have been looking at so many pages I'm starting to imagine things. I haven't found an answer to two questions I have regarding a '97 4.6 r/r and they are if I change the air suspension with springs will I have the fault light on the dash still on and if so can I get rid of it ? And also does any one from Australia have any idea of the cost to have the conversion done ( near the Gold Coast) . Curious to have your thoughts on weather it is worth doing or should I just get the air suspension fixed. Thanks
That's an easy one, get the EAS fixed and be able to fully enjoy your Range Rover. ;-)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Get the air suspension fixed. I don't understand the obsession car manufacturers have with these daft bent bits of wire at each corner.

Of course to do it properly you need hydropneumatic suspension, but the RR air suspension is a good compromise ;-)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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if you have the rsw solutions programme, you can open each valve indepently , also rewrite heights, empty tank, start compressor, the programme covers most aspects and is free,, all you need is the lead which i presume you have,, take a little time to get used to the programme, saved my life on more than one occasion,,
 

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Hey Lennox - what exactly is wrong with your eas? A quote for parts and/or labour? Gossip from other people?

Rowan
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #14
Finally solved my issue! It was the compressor not cycling long enough. I still have the used non-rebuilt valve block in the car which I need to switch for my rebuilt one but other than that she is all put back together and running beautifully. Thank you so much for your input and help.
- Tyler
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Really thought I was done with this thread but things are never boring with my old girl. Now the compressor is running too much (ironic considering where I started). The compressor will run of a few minutes stop let air out then after 10-20 seconds it restarts and it seems to be stuck in that loop. So I checked just about everything that I can think of no visible leaks anywhere I've sprayed down the hoses on the side of the valve block the valve block itself, the compressor, all of the air bag inlets, the tank and the air dryer. I've also been measuring the car after sitting for several days in all height setting with no changes leading me to believe that there are no leaks. I swapped out the driver pack and pressure switch with a used spare I had sitting around with the same result. The compressor is recently rebuilt and seems to be putting out the proper pressure. I'm glad the car is finally drivable however I refuse to simply unplug the compressor and only plug it back in when needed and would really like to get this resolved. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thank you
-Tyler
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Try it with the rebuilt valveblock back in, it could have been a double issue at first.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That's what I have in it right now is the rebuilt one it did the same thing with the not rebuild valve block and with two different driver packs/pressure switches.


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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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How did you get the compressor to cycle long enough in the first place? I would suspect this 'fix' has something to do with it cycling too much now!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #19
I have a different compressor in now. I think the first one had a bad cut off switch and wasn't putting our enough pressure to begin with. Once I put in a different compressor it pumped right up. I then swapped out the piston, head, and cylinder from the one I had rebuilt so now I the compressor I have in there is effectively resealed.


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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I would still suspect the pressure switch. Just rebuilding the compressor would not cause it to pump longer. Indeed, if the pre-rebuilt compressor was not pumping out enough volume then it should have kept going longer until the thermal cut out switched it off before the pressure switch. The fact that it was switching off early tends to suggest a duff pressure switch.

The only other thing I can suggest is to put a pressure gauge in the line to the air tank to see exactly what is going on with the tank pressure and see whether it is the fluctuations in pressure causing the compressor to keep cycling.
 
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