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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2004 Range Rover and tha passenger axle has popped out twice in the last week since an axle change on Monday due to a failed u joint. Indy did not replace the c clip with a new one.

The first time it it went about 5 miles before it popped out. The second time it went about 100 miles. Now I'm on out of town for the weekend and can't move. The only way to that I can see that to put the axle back in would be to disassemble the hub and I have a very limited set of tools.

Back to why this keeps happening. Is it as easy as a bad c clip? Or is there the possibility that something is going on to pull out the axle?
 

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I have reused my inner c clip four times and have never had this issue. Assuming the c clip is not damaged I would say the axle was not fully seated. That c clip has to be pushed in far enough so that it snaps into a corresponding groove inside the transmission. If it is not in the groove, and assuming it is not damaged, it will be free to come right out. It usually takes a few tries to get it to seat. You can tell visually. Also if you push it in correctly you will feel it and hear it, plus you will not be able to pull it out. It usually takes a number of good properly placed wacks to get it to compress and come out.

On the other end, at the knuckle, is everything properly installed?
 

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I would check if the air suspension bag is inflated properly and isn't leaking I have seen one before that had a leaking air suspension bag that caused the axel to come out


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Consider the suspension has more articulation that the strut allows for it is physically impossible for the EAS bladder on the strut to cause any interference or issues with the axle shaft. A leaking bladder will simply lower the strut to it's bump stop.

Ohio, it sounds like pure poor assembly. Cclips are easily scuffed and nicked during removal and installation. As the CClip was not replaced with a nice square surfaced new one I suspect it is the root cause. 13 years of driving will have stressed it to some degree. It has been removed and reinstalled multiple times stressing it further. More than likely it has lost some of it's spring properties that hold it tight. They really can not be all that expensive and I fail to grasp why an Indie would not have a few on the shelf to save order time or just order one in to ensure a single job instead of three or four.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. My air suspension lights are on but my scanner says I have a can bus fault and the front end is low. Perhaps a combo of an under inflated front end and a weak c clip is the issue? It was towed to the shop today and for kicks I may have them do a load test on the battery creating faults in other systems? At this point no solution is off the table.
 

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No combination that includes EAS. It physically is impossible for there to be any impact from an EAS issue and a mechanical failure within your differential. Your front end being low does not put any additional stresses or torque on the axle shaft. There is only one likely possibility and that is the worn out Cclip.

Now is this the original axle shaft or is it a replacement? If this is still the original axle shaft, perhaps... big stretch... the retaining groove on the differential end of the shaft is not true/square. If the groove has worn to a slight angle somehow the Cclip would not have a positive hold... Just a shot in the dark guess at another option.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks- no this is a replacement axle. Indy wants to try another new axle and new c clip
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is probably a dumb question, but is a c clip a c clip? In other words, is this one Land Rover / RR specific?
 

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well it is going to have very specific specs for this application. Your tech should be smart enough to fit one that matches those specs exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Going with a new reman axle and a clip directly from the LR Dealer. Fingers crossed.
 

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I think you may have the wrong part installed or you have very worn front end control arm bushings .

NOTE once an axle is in position there is not much extra room for it to move sideways,
unless the other suspension parts are worn like the lower control arm bushings ,

or maybe you have a shaft from a range rover sport this might be slightly shorter,
only way to tell is the installer paying attention to the original shaft length VS the new part.

NOTE if all of these trucks were depending on that C clip to prevent the axle from coming out during operation then their would be a lot more of these type failures.

The C clip is used during initial assembly to prevent the axle from coming out of its bore until its installed into the spindle hub assembly
NOTE with the correct axle installed you should be able to move the shaft side to side about 2 inches tops before it stops moving
 

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at the shop we replace lots of CV axles,
and a few times the new part is different from the old,
so matching up the new part is critical.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks. Passed your insights on to the indy. Told him specifically to look at matching up parts and look for any play in the suspension assembly. I would hope for a professional mechanic it should go without saying, but you never know.

As a side note, several weeks back I hit an object on the highway that damaged the tire enough to flatten it. Upon inspection in had made a sizable cut in the tread and I replaced the tire the next day.

I did not believe the incident on the highway had any thing to do with the CV joint failing as it had been clicking up to the point it failed…I had the RR up my self several times to inspect the axle and suspension but could not find anything amiss (it was a different “click” than I had encountered in previous experiences with failing axles). The joint that failed was fully greased with the boot intact.
Just a thought.
 

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with that info it would be prudent for a closer inspection of the front end parts it could be possible you bent or otherwise damaged the arms/ bushings that keep everything together
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did pass that info on to him earlier. I am hoping he inspects with a fine toothed comb.
 

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Can anyone tell me where these c-clips are located? Does anyone have any pics of it in place?
I looked in the RAVE manual, but can't tell much detail from there.
I get a clunky clicking from the area of my right rear axel, mostly when making a right hand turn, but lately also when accelerating from a stop - I have to ease off the gas pedal when it happens to stop it.
I don't know if it's an axle problem or a differential thing although it does sound more like it's from the side (wheel area) more than the middle (diff area).
Are these c-clips easy to get to for inspection?
 

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The C-Clips are on the inner end of the input shaft inside the differential. They are about 1/2" from the very end of the shaft and you would have to pull the axle out of the differential to see and inspect them.
 

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Thanks Mark.
I took it to a pro today, actually two - some local indy LR guy, then the dealership.
Oddly, the dealership was most (extremely, actually) helpful, and identified the problem as the chain in the transfer case, not a problem with the prop shaft or half shaft.
Now I've got to start digging into information for the NV225 transfer case.
I saw some extensive details from RRPhil on the newer model transfer case, so I'll hopefully find some of his (and others) posts that'll help me with addressing the NV225 problems and repair. RAVE does go into internal description detail for the NV225, and I found replacement chains available for $175 +/-.

Thanks very much for your quick and helpful reply though.
 
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