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I'm thinking of getting a number of parts together as spares for trips to make sure I don't get stranded. Some parts that have left me stranded in the past include:

Brake Pedal Switch
Air Bag Suspension
Coil
Fuel Pump
Alternator
Stepper Motor (hasn't left me stranded, but I'm going to keep one on hand anyway)

I won't keep the fuel pump or alternator on hand because I recently replaced them both.

Anything else that would be good to keep on hand?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Remove the ridiculously unnecessary gearchange interlock that was only fitted to US spec cars and then there's no need to worry about a brake light switch. See http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/8-...ossible-causes-i-cant-shift-into-low-4-a.html for the differences between US and rest of world cars. As there is the button on the underside of the gearchange knob, it still isn't possible to accidentally knock a car into gear so why is it needed?

For the air suspension, carry a set of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROV...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f3733057d so you can pump each corner up with a tyre pump. Slightly more difficult to get at on a Classic compared to a P38 (where the valve block is under the bonnet) but will still do the same job.

On a Classic, one thing I'd addd, which I always used to keep in the car, is a spare ignition amplifier. More likely to fail than a coil.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I guess the obvious (head torch, fuses, relays, insulation tape, belts, assorted nuts, bolts screws, bulbs etc) are already in your bag.
From my experience (read "breakdowns" :wink:) I'd carry...

A length of cable long enough to reach from the battery to the ignition coil, and from the battery to the starter (alarm/immobiliser by-pass)
Some short cables (preferably single strand 1mm CSA) with stripped ends so you can link pins out on connectors
Take some air suspension pipe and straight connectors
A workshop manual - even if it's a short form like a Haynes (paper or downloaded on your phone etc.)
The longest HT lead

....and the amp that Gilbertd mentions is a must.

Good thorough preparation is the key - the RRC is not as bad as some would have you think, I've been let down very few times that were the car's fault.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have a small box that lives in the car, now in the P38 but it used to live in the Classic. As I tend to set off to do regular 2,000 mile round trip, I don't really want to be stranded. In the box are lengths of assorted size hose, jubilee clips, tie wraps, a 10m length of two core cable, insulation tape, gaffer tape, insulated steel binding wire (sold in garden centres for tying up plants), assorted size nuts and bolts, self tapping screws and a sidelight bulb attached to a couple of lengths of wire with croc clips on the ends. On top of that there are things that are specific to the car so with a Classic it would be the ignition amp, with the P38 it includes an old laptop loaded with the EAS software, LPG system software and RAVE, a set of the EAS valves, a length of pipe and some joiners and a starter motor and alternator. With an automatic car that can't be bump started and a reliance on electrickery, failure of either of these would stop the car dead even though there's nothing wrong with the car itself.

I'll add that I've only ever had to use one short length of hose, the rest of the stuff is there just in case.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My approach is to get a good roadside assist package so you can get a tow home when it breaks down.
 

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Before any parts are packed in, I make sure the first aid kit is well stocked, fire extinguisher is inspected and the wheel chocks are in there with the jack. Might seem obvious to have these, but they can also be easily over looked in the packing. Even though I don't smoke, there's always a lighter in the Rover incase a fire needs to be lit. These don't require much space and can save a life.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I would add a spare auxiliary drive belt (fan belt), If you have a sunroof make sure you have the manual wind key incase it packs up, sunshine doesn't always last a whole day over here, and make sure you have the right size wheel nut tool or socket and bar and your locking wheel nut key if you have them, poss. a can of tyre weld, I know a lot of people hate them but when off road you can't always jack up and replace the wheel but this may get you out of trouble as a temp solution.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My approach is to get a good roadside assist package so you can get a tow home when it breaks down.
My problem is when doing a 1,000 miles there and another 1,000 miles back, I don't want to be taken home if I break down on the way there.....

I've got roadside assist and recovery but that is a last resort. If i can somehow get it to my destination I'll have access to a workshop and if I still can't fix it, I can then get taken home. But recovery trucks are so much slower and nothing like as comfortable as a Range Rover.
 
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