RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2006 RR HSE

Does anyone know the correct part number for the valve body seal? I have my mechatronic unit out and want to go ahead and replace the seal but I'm finding different ones and I don't want to order the wrong one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Not sure the part number but I'm picking it up from the dealer so I don't need the number now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Rob, did you speak to the guy from ZF/Errikson? Was he able to give you direction?
Dave, I did and THANK YOU so much for taking time to speak with me. He described what is going on with my trans to a tee. He also told me exactly why it's happening. I'm ordering a new sleeve, the valve body seal and then putting it back together. If it works then I'll update my thread. You may have saved me a grand on this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Anyone by chance know what to torque the torx bolts on the valve body to the trans? I can't find it in the Rover shop manual. I think it's 6lbs but the part I read isn't crystal clear and I don't feel like screwing anything up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,083 Posts
  • Install the main control valve body.
    • Clean the component mating faces.
    • Install new seals.
    • Install a new seal block.
    • Tighten the Torx screws to 8 Nm (6 lb.ft).

  • Install a new electrical connector sleeve.
    • Secure with retainer.
  • Connect the electrical connector.
  • Install the fluid pan. See FLUID PAN, GASKET AND FILTER .
  • Connect the battery ground cable. Refer to Specifications .
  • Calibrate a new main control valve body using T4.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
What is the correct gap distance in between the electrical connector and the transmission? It seems like the guy at Ericson said 1.5-3mm. Is that correct?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,083 Posts
There is no specification for this from Land Rover. Do it hand tight, whatever that comes out to, as long as it doesn't leak you'll be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I know it says wait until the trans fluid is 40C before checking it after putting fluid in. If none comes out then add until a small stream comes out. Is there a temp that's too high to add? I thought you didn't want it to be over 50C but I don't see that on the pdf. I want to make sure I get everything perfect.(just in case I do have to go back and buy a new mechatronic unit I'll know it wasn't on my end.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,083 Posts
operating temperature is where you must put fluid in.. whatever that is after driving, that's what I'd leave it as.

A small stream is fine if it is very small, almost to a drip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Mark, thank you. I've never seen it that detailed before. Will get it done this weekend if I can get my Rover level. Kind of hard with the issues I'm having with my suspension and I only have 2 jack stands.
 

·
LEGACY VENDOR
Joined
·
2,267 Posts
To answer the OP’s original question, the bridge seal has been superseded a couple of times – both to improve the design and because mechanics were getting the thicker version from the 6HP19/21 mixed up with the slightly thinner 6HP26/28/32 seal. ZF put an identification tag on the seal and a locating tab (where the casing has a corresponding notch) to prevent interchangability.









The ZF part numbers were :
0501 212 931 (early version)
0501 219 952 (with id tag)
0501 215 718 (with id tag & locating tab/notch)

The 0501 219 952 version can be used whether the casing has the notch or not, so that will fit whatever. The Land Rover part number is TGW 500010


The part numbers for the four jump tubes are :
ZF: 0734 317 370 / LR: TZT 500010 (2-off)
ZF: 0734 317 371 / LR: TZT 500020
ZF: 0734 317 372 / LR: TZT 500030





And finally, the connector sleeve (the latest one having the black seals rather than the original orange/red ones):
ZF: 0501 216 272 / LR: TZV 500010



Phil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Argh, I got it all back together and filled the trans exactly like the instructions said but now I'm getting a P0964 error. It's the only error I'm getting but it's right off the bat even when I reset it. I'm at my wits in with my Rover. I just want to be able to drive it but this has got me to a place where I don't know if I want it anymore.(I'm also dealing with a suspension problem that I've ordered a ton of new seals and parts for)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
905 Posts
You've got a bad #2 EPRS solenoid on the mechatronics unit, its not the end one directly under the electrical connector, but the one next to it. Its other an open circuited solenoid coil, or when you put the electrical connector back on (assuming you replaced the seal) one of the pins didn't go back in the right hole, or has some kind of garbage on it. If you didn't touch the mechatronics unit it almost has to be an issue in the connector. Worst case just replace the solenoid, which does involve pulling the valve body out and separating it from the mechatronics unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
You've got a bad #2 EPRS solenoid on the mechatronics unit, its not the end one directly under the electrical connector, but the one next to it. Its other an open circuited solenoid coil, or when you put the electrical connector back on (assuming you replaced the seal) one of the pins didn't go back in the right hole, or has some kind of garbage on it. If you didn't touch the mechatronics unit it almost has to be an issue in the connector. Worst case just replace the solenoid, which does involve pulling the valve body out and separating it from the mechatronics unit.
Mark, I pulled out the Mechatronic unit because I was going to send it in as a core unit for another one I was buying. But, I spoke with a guy at Erickson and he said I didn't need a new unit.(I was having the p0705 code) He said I just didn't get my sleeve correctly fitted and it's a common problem. So, I put back in the mechatronic unit and now have that code. I'll check the connector and then if that doesn't work I'll pull the mechatronic unit. At this point it all goes pretty quickly. I'm just tired of it. Seems like I've been chasing one thing after the other lately. My suspension system seems to be full of rust so I'm going to drop the tank and see if it has any water in it.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
About this Discussion
22 Replies
6 Participants
Robbing
RangeRovers.net Forum
We’re a community forum to discuss and assist on issues with every Range Rover model. Sign up if you have a question, answer or to meet like minded individuals
Full Forum Listing
Top