I will preface this by saying I have no experience with this, but given that it has overheated twice, it is possible there is now chunks of brake material stuck in the mechanism that may be causing it to smoke. Might be best to just get it towed so you dont have any issues, or tear up anything further.
Parking Brake Release problem - normal fix doesn’t work.
I had my parking brake fail to release last week as I entered the M25, and by the time the warning light came on, it was getting a bit smoky.
I had the car recovered to home, left it for a few days, and today decided to try the standard method of forcing a release after which I went out for a short drive. Despite it seeming to be fully released when I set off (it rolled down the gentle incline in my street when in neutral) It overheated again after a mile, and was smoking when I stopped. I’d not engaged the brake, and at no point had the “(P)” symbol illuminated, so it seems to be slightly dragging rather than being actively engaged.
I gave it fifteen minutes, checked that the car rolled freely again, and made my way carefully home with a stop every few hundred metres. It’s the left side which is not releasing, and it was pretty warm again when I got but not too hot. The right hand side was cool.
What I’d like to find out is is there any way to ensure it’s properly freed up, and not dragging at all, so that I can drive it to the garage to have it properly looked at? It’s fifteen miles away, and I’d rather not spend two hours limping there or having to get it transported.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I had the car recovered to home, left it for a few days, and today decided to try the standard method of forcing a release after which I went out for a short drive. Despite it seeming to be fully released when I set off (it rolled down the gentle incline in my street when in neutral) It overheated again after a mile, and was smoking when I stopped. I’d not engaged the brake, and at no point had the “(P)” symbol illuminated, so it seems to be slightly dragging rather than being actively engaged.
I gave it fifteen minutes, checked that the car rolled freely again, and made my way carefully home with a stop every few hundred metres. It’s the left side which is not releasing, and it was pretty warm again when I got but not too hot. The right hand side was cool.
What I’d like to find out is is there any way to ensure it’s properly freed up, and not dragging at all, so that I can drive it to the garage to have it properly looked at? It’s fifteen miles away, and I’d rather not spend two hours limping there or having to get it transported.
Thanks in advance for any help.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Good point. I’ll take the calliper off and have a look, and if I see nothing obvious will get the transport sorted.
Could be a seized caliper that’s not backing off when the parking brake is released.
NOTE the system has E brake shoes like drum brakes.
the calipers are for the road braking system.
If the system has been damaged but the EPBunit is still working then I would follow this course.
Replace ,
the rear rotors,
the pads,
and the E brake shoes ,
and spring kit
Usually the cause of PB issues is worn brake shoes this lets the unit over extend,
next cause is rusty E brake cables,
if the cables are rusty they can be replaced but it requires removal of the EPB unit.
NOTE at that point it might be better to replace the EPB unit given the amount of time and difficulty it requires.
NOTE regardless of the EPB unit and cables,
the rotors, pads, and E brake shoes and springs must also be replaced to guarantee long term function ability
the calipers are for the road braking system.
If the system has been damaged but the EPBunit is still working then I would follow this course.
Replace ,
the rear rotors,
the pads,
and the E brake shoes ,
and spring kit
Usually the cause of PB issues is worn brake shoes this lets the unit over extend,
next cause is rusty E brake cables,
if the cables are rusty they can be replaced but it requires removal of the EPB unit.
NOTE at that point it might be better to replace the EPB unit given the amount of time and difficulty it requires.
NOTE regardless of the EPB unit and cables,
the rotors, pads, and E brake shoes and springs must also be replaced to guarantee long term function ability
The l494 does not have cables or drum brake shoes. The system uses an electronic actuator to apply the brake pads against the rotors. Earlier Range Rover Sports used a separate brake shoe mechanism.NOTE the system has E brake shoes like drum brakes.
the calipers are for the road braking system.
If the system has been damaged but the EPBunit is still working then I would follow this course.
Replace ,
the rear rotors,
the pads,
and the E brake shoes ,
and spring kit
Usually the cause of PB issues is worn brake shoes this lets the unit over extend,
next cause is rusty E brake cables,
if the cables are rusty they can be replaced but it requires removal of the EPB unit.
NOTE at that point it might be better to replace the EPB unit given the amount of time and difficulty it requires.
NOTE regardless of the EPB unit and cables,
the rotors, pads, and E brake shoes and springs must also be replaced to guarantee long term function ability
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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