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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1

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Ron, do you have the manual for the CD changer? Mine stopped working recently after the truck had been parked for 3 mos. Turned out to be a very small rocker arm that stuck/froze. Audio man figured it out, oiled it and everything fine now, but I was lost when I took it apart. The manual would be nice for future reference. thanks, mark j.
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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No, I don't Mark.

We'd need to pull one out to find the Clarion part no. of the changer then source it.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Ron. Thanks for posting the manual. Very useful. I see a bunch of part numbers relating to the LCD in the manual. Which one needs to be ordered to fix my display which lights up but with no digits?
Could you also let me know where you ordered from? Thanks.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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148 Posts
ghur said:
Ron. Thanks for posting the manual. Very useful. I see a bunch of part numbers relating to the LCD in the manual. Which one needs to be ordered to fix my display which lights up but with no digits?
Could you also let me know where you ordered from? Thanks.
Hi Ron. I'd love the info too if that's ok. Cheers mate. :thumb:
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Thanks for the info Ron. I found it through the main site. Cheers! :thumb:
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #8
ghur said:
Ron. Thanks for posting the manual. Very useful. I see a bunch of part numbers relating to the LCD in the manual. Which one needs to be ordered to fix my display which lights up but with no digits?
Could you also let me know where you ordered from? Thanks.
I bought it from Clarion Australia.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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690 Posts
Thanks for posting this. It's helped me track down a fault with the stereo in my '98 Rangie, where the stereo would just make a buzzing whine when turned on. With the lid off the stereo, flexing the board made it burst into life and show "----" on the screen with a thump from the (astonishingly loud) sub - a dry joint somewhere!

Save yourselves some time. Get the top cover off, take the tape deck out (four screws and be careful with the multiplug) and turn the stereo so the panel is towards you. Now remove the three screws from the heatsink just left of the tape slot, pull it up gently to get it out of the way, and look underneath - you'll see a black square surface-mount resistor with "103" marked on it. This had been cooked and had gone dry-jointed, but a quick dab with the soldering iron on each end saw it stuck down properly. Refit the heatsink and tape deck, put the lid back on, and refit the stereo.

I hope this helps someone else. If it doesn't you'll need to remove the PCB and check thoroughly for dry joints around those three big transistors.
 
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