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Discussion Starter #1
So, I'm looking for my next adventure having just about finished what I'm doing to my p38.

So having spent the year sorting bits.....ABS accumulator, brake fluid, SS braided hoses, coil-pack, HT leads, battery, 4 x air springs, 4 x shocks, 4 x height sensors, valve block o-rings, compressor, 4 x new tyres, exhaust, cruise ECU, alternator, front seats, seat-belts, indicators, steering bar/drag bar/tie rod ends, remote locking, side-steps, rear drawers, various bits of trim, niggling electrical fixes, steering box/tracking adjustment and a proper window tint I'm looking for another project and a little bit of an upgrade even though the old girl drives real nice.

Only things I haven't done (will not do due to return on investment) is the headlining which isn't too bad (but definitely on the way out), the top/bottom ball joints as the rubbers are gone, a weep off the rear crank seal (that will leak again as soon as its fixed) and a buckled dash (covered by a new dash mat).

Would anyone like to comment on DIY costs and ease of an early FFRR L322 (probably 04/05 M62 engine) vs an early RRS? As I'm coming from the 95 p38 I reckon I'd ask here in case anyone else has made the move - I have owned a 99 disco td5 and I like the interior of the FFRR much more than the RRS and I'm not a fan of the big black strip on the windscreen covering up the high dash to low bonnet line. I do some off-road here in WA (powerline track, wilbinga, julimar) but not extreme.

Heart is saying the FFRR for sure - any painful experiences to guide me?
 

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Wait another 24 hours Tats, something will go wrong on your P38 - seems from your list to date that you are due a head gasket failure, or catastrophic air con failure :)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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So, I'm looking for my next adventure having just about finished what I'm doing to my p38.

So having spent the year sorting bits.....ABS accumulator, brake fluid, SS braided hoses, coil-pack, HT leads, battery, 4 x air springs, 4 x shocks, 4 x height sensors, valve block o-rings, compressor, 4 x new tyres, exhaust, cruise ECU, alternator, front seats, seat-belts, indicators, steering bar/drag bar/tie rod ends, remote locking, side-steps, rear drawers, various bits of trim, niggling electrical fixes, steering box/tracking adjustment and a proper window tint I'm looking for another project and a little bit of an upgrade even though the old girl drives real nice.

Only things I haven't done (will not do due to return on investment) is the headlining which isn't too bad (but definitely on the way out), the top/bottom ball joints as the rubbers are gone, a weep off the rear crank seal (that will leak again as soon as its fixed) and a buckled dash (covered by a new dash mat).

Would anyone like to comment on DIY costs and ease of an early FFRR L322 (probably 04/05 M62 engine) vs an early RRS? As I'm coming from the 95 p38 I reckon I'd ask here in case anyone else has made the move - I have owned a 99 disco td5 and I like the interior of the FFRR much more than the RRS and I'm not a fan of the big black strip on the windscreen covering up the high dash to low bonnet line. I do some off-road here in WA (powerline track, wilbinga, julimar) but not extreme.

Heart is saying the FFRR for sure - any painful experiences to guide me?
I did alot of the things you did and consider my RR done. I bought another project 1990 Delta 88 Royale and it is done too , just needs paint. The Corvette has been done for a while.
Waiting for something to break!
 

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Ball joints aren’t expensive, with 2 people it’s a mornings work, it’s obviously an mot failure, thus would put people off if your selling to fund new project
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Chris, Yeah as someone originating from the UK I find it strange that we don't have an MOT system in place here in Western Australia. If there is reason to suspect a defect the police can issue a notice requiring the vehicle is "taken over the pits" and I believe this is extremely stringent. In my case the boots have split and I don't have an under cover area or assistant other than SWMBO. I've changed this type of press fitting joint on other vehicles in the past and know its very heavy work in 35+ degrees doing it solo - if I get no interest in the car I may end up doing it and hanging onto the old girl for a bit longer.
 

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Over the years I've done everything you've done, and more, so now I just use the car. When the engine was getting very tired I considered selling it and getting a newer one to replace it with, then realised I'd just be buying someone else's problems and have to start all over again. Just use it and enjoy it, it'll still throw up the odd problem to keep you busy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I went to have a look at a 2002 L322 that was being sold cheap with an EAS fault - wow is all I can say. Talk about unnecessary complexity.....the p38 system is a dream by comparison.

The owner thought there was a leak causing the issues so armed with a spray bottle with soapy liquid and my foxwell nt520pro with the JLR suite I went along and thought I'd have a squizz. The reservoir had 8.7 bar so compressor and pressure relief valves all work, the steering angle sensor calibrated ok, the abs module had no faults, the height sensors were giving readings, the air ecu suspension was giving information with the only code being a can-bus fault.

I walked away as the car was not for me - but pretty much it has a k-bus failure somewhere as I can't access about 5 ECUs on that bus. The HVAC was down so that would be the first one I'd remove to see what happened (only 100 bucks off ebay if it is that) but the systems are so interconnected with so much cabling that someone has had a hack at in the past it makes the p38 simply a dream to work on. The 4.4 beemer engine was nice, smooth, fast (with a slight timing chain rattle at start-up). The box was slick, smooth and sharp, the brakes were progressive and powerful and on the bump stops it was bouncy lol. But if you can only throw spanners around and struggle to keep smoke in the wires I'd recommend sticking with a 'dirty eight A'.
 

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That's the problem with any Canbus vehicle, all the modules talk to each other so one module failing affects others as the self test fails at one point so modules further down the line never get checked so are flagged as not working. A friend had a 5 series BMW of similar age and the radio would only pick up very local stations (like ones that he could see the transmitter site for) so we replaced the antenna pre-amp which made no difference at all. Finally found that he had a faulty Bluetooth module which was checked before the pre-amp so the amp was never being powered up. While I would like the power from the 4.4 litre engine, the L322 has a few other little quirks that prevent me from even considering one. The steering lock is solenoid operated rather than purely mechanical as on a P38. If it sticks (which they do), it won't let you turn the key in the ignition so you can't start the car. I've seen some owners describe it as a minor inconvenience but as I use my car to drive all around Europe, being unable to start the car after I've stopped to fill up with fuel 1,000 miles from home is a bit more than a minor inconvenience. At least with a P38, as long as the engine is running and nothing has broken in the drivetrain, you can keep going. Even if something does fail, it will rarely stop the car dead in it's tracks and can often be fixed at the roadside.
 

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I have a P38 and an L322, love them both. Originally was planning to sell the P38 once I got the newer one but having second thoughts. Not on the L322 just on selling the P38. It practically has no value and needs a head job pretty equal to its worth. The body has a few dings and clear coat is flaking. It served me very well so hate to give it away. I'll probably keep it, do the heads, and keep it as a farm vehicle and maybe restore it when I retire. I know it sounds geeky but the P38 has so much character that I would be sad to see it go. But I needed a newer vehicle for road trips so that how I got to the L322. I researched the L322 alot before pulling the trigger. I decided to skip the BMW (to '05) and the transition ('06) generations and go to the Jag motor years. Quite a bit of improvements were done to the L322 along the way. Long term reliability points to the '09 as a very good year. But then I drove the 5.0SC ('10-'12) and fell in love with that engine. The increase in power from the '09SC to '10 and newer is significant when you drive it. I'm prepared to deal with the timing chain tensioner upgrades when the time comes. But the '09 can be had for less and there's a better chance of running the engine for many miles before anything is needed.
 

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Is the 4.4 in the 09's more reliable or the 4.2 supercharged more reliable? I've been thinking about making the switch myself........if I can find one with the factory rear locker.
 

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I should have said '07-'09, the differences are small. There doesn't seem to be much disadvantage to the SC except maintenance to the SC itself at around 100k for most. And the expense of that isn't terrible for the power reward you get. The NA 305hp 4.4L engine doesn't feel much stronger than the P38 to me. But if you don't care then its a fine choice.
 

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The Mk3 is a totally different animal than the P38's. I still have my LSx p38, but got the missus a '03 many years ago. I was well impressed with the thing. Then a year or two back, got her a '11 SC, which made the '03 look and feel like a dinosaur.
They are a lot more refined and ride about 300 times better. You'll miss the interior build quality of the P38 if you get anything before 2006 though. The BMW stuff is just plain wank.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Interesting comments folks - the interior build quality of my 95 gems is interesting too. The buckled dash, saggy headlining, a-pillar flocking, cracked plastics make me wonder how bad must the early l322s be?
 

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Of relevance to those of us in the UK and Oz, the BMW engine in the L322 up to 2005 takes to LPG like a duck to water whereas the later Ford/Jaguar engines have soft valve seats so need very careful calibration and a lube system fitting. More complication and more expense.
 
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