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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure what this part is called, or how to explain it clearly, so attached a picture...

rad hose.JPG

But the plastic "nipple" on the top left of the radiator that has the narrow hose (that comes from the coolant tank) going into it has snapped off. I still have part of it and was thinking of trying to glue it on with some super industrial strength glue or something. But can't imagine that would last too long. And the plastic nipple I have still doesn't line up perfectly with what's pictured above (wasn't a clean break).

Any ideas on how to repair this without having to buy a whole new radiator?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Get a new radiator...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK...well that's too bad. And that's all I need? A new rad will have that connection on the top (i.e. that's not another part that goes with the radiator)?

Is replacing the radiator DIY friendly? Or mechanic?
 

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This happened to me a while back. I leaned on that little nipple with my elbow and it broke off; unfortunately it was at temp and hot water and steam covered me and my garage. Had to get a new radiator; not difficult at all to put in.
 

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I agree the best way would be to get a new radiator. Fitting is quite easy, the radiator itself quite expensive though.
As a temporary fix, if you need to drive the car, you could try to put a thin walled tube into the broken part to use as a reinforcement and to help glue the plasitc nipple back on. But you need to find a tube that's a very close fit and off course use high quality heat-resistant glue.
 

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I have successfully repaired two radiators with the above problem. But it is a repair that carries some risk so beware.

I found a suitable threaded insert with a barb to take a rubber hose which goes to the expansion tank. Drilled out the radiator where the nipple broke off and tapped a thread in the plastic to suit the brass insert. Very carefully as there is not much to play with. Then used an epoxy "plastic steel" glue and screwed in the insert but fitted and clamped the hose onto the insert first to make sure it would not be disturbed again.

Then using the area shown by the arrow I made sure the rubber pipe fitted snugly into the groove and fabricated a small clamp to fix the pipe in place. That way if the insert was ever to work loose it would not shoot off under pressure but merely start leaking giving you time to notice the water loss.

Better still buy a new radiator as mentioned but if you are on a tight budget it works. I used my daily driver for many thousands of miles like this before I splashed out a a new rad.
 

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This is a repair I did using two brass inserts to get the correct size. I fitted the clamp after this pic was taken.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks ghur...that looks like a pretty solid fix. Wish I had waited to see this before I did my fix (where did you find that brass fitting?). My fix is pretty "mickey mouse"....but I am driving up to San Francisco from Las Vegas (570 miles) in a couple of days and don't have time to order a new rad and install. I could go to a mechanic and they could get the OEM locally....but then I am paying through the nose full retail...which I can't really afford right now (and just before Xmas).

HOWEVER...what do you guys think of this fix....will it hold up on a long trip (I know it's hard to say from a picture)? That glue is an epoxy called J B Weld. It's as hard as a rock, has cured for 24 hours, and said to withstand temps up to 550 degrees. Was going to work on it some more (and better secure the hose and plastic insert as you suggested too) by putting another layer of JB Weld on there. I would rather have the brass fitting in there like you have....but would have to start over again.

rad fix.jpg
 

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I sure wouldn;t trust my rig to one of those vacuum hose fittings. That is a road side disaster just waiting to happen. Remeber that your cooling system is presurised. THose cheap vacuum fittings are not rated for presure OR temperature.

Brass plumping fittings can be found at any Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK...I'll dismantle this and do the brass fitting route. My thinking was the piece that broke off the rad is plastic...so maybe this would work. But the heat and pressure was a worry of mine...

Thanks for your input!
 

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I just had a pinhole leak on my 99 RR on the upper radiator hose, stealership wanted $120 for just the hose (no labor) so I can't even imagine what they would get you for a new radiator!
 

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I wish my fix looked as nice as yours ghur! Even if it's temporary...I am a stickler about stuff like this...and embarrassed how sloppy mine looks now. Just had never worked with JB Weld before...and wanted to make sure I got it on there well. Hopefully my Dremel tool will work to clean this up and open the hole more for the brass fitting. Heading to Home Depot now to find such a fitting (thanks for the pic too, as I am bringing that with me)
 

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Yes there is an automatic filter that blanks out any form of profanity as it violates the guidelines set down by our founder. There is no need at any time for any level of profanity to solve a technical issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ghur...how did you "tap a thread in the plastic"? I was thinking I would just glue the insert in place with the JB Weld. Not sure how to create threads

Going to just cut off the plastic splicer I installed with a dremel tool...then clean up the hole and possibly open up a bit to fit whatever brass fitting I find. So far online haven't found exactly what you have pictured, but have found similar with both ends being like the right side of what you have (the non-threaded side). Figured I would just glue the insert in place.
 

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The thread tap is available at the same hardware stores. Threads are what is going to give you the strength needed to hold in place when pressurized.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK...well on the way to Home Depot to get the brass fitting my RR over heated again. Getting out of the car I was thinking my "band aid" repair had broken. But when I checked under the hood, it was fine. At that point I had no idea why it was over heating. I let it cool off, and then kept driving another few blocks to Home Depot. By the time I got to Home Depot, it was over heating again. So went into the store and let the car cool off. When I got back I added about half a gallon of water to the tank. And started driving home.

On the way home, about half way there, it started over heating again. Got out and inspected the repaired area, which still looked fine, but then when I gently wiggled it, it came off. Let it all cool down a bit...added more water. Duct taped the connection just to get home. Almost home and once again over heated. Opened hood...coolant reservoir is boiling like crazy...but my duct taped connection seemed fine actually.

Now I know I need a new radiator...and I am still going to try and do the repair with the brass fitting......but if the connection seemed fine....why was it over heating still? Only thing I can think of is either the hole in the plastic connector I was using was too small (much smaller than the opening of the piece that broke off) OR it's my thermostat.

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Upon some more research on the forum here...I think the hole was too small in that white plastic vacuum hose connector I used, and as a result air was getting trapped in the top of the rad causing the over heating. Not sure if that was it, but that's my theory.

But I replaced the plastic piece with a 1/4" brass fitting (smallest I could find at Home Depot) opened the hole a bit with a drill to get it to fit, then gently tapped it in with a hammer and some JB Weld on the end and around the edges. We'll see how that works out.

I did see on an old thread from '09 on the same topic, one poster was told by his Indy to plug the hole with a screw and some epoxy, then cut into the rad hose at it's highest point above the alternator, and add a brass T fitting and run the overflow hose to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also...if I open the coolant fill tank with the engine idling, coolant should be streaming out of the over flow tube into the tank, yes? That way I know its flowing through the system properly, right?
 

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That is correct.
 
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