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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, broke rule no:1 today and closed the door with the key in, windows up, engine running and....she whent and locked herself (4.6 GEMS HSE) - in my defence, it was frosty, so I couldn't open the window, and it was early, so I was a bit asleep.

After wiggling door handles and panicking for a good half hour (only have one key) an idea struck and managed to get in without breaking anything (won't say how on a public forum) and rescued the situation....so, cooling system works fine then :wink:

can anyone help with a reason for this happening?

The only thing I can add is...
  • Car unlocked fine off fob
  • Car started fine - "engine check light" on at ignition, off on start
  • Drivers window came up "not set" when used
  • Radio stated "code in" when turned on

Other info that might be relevant

  • Car is on a constant trickle charger when parked
  • Car does not recognise passenger front door - interior light not triggered by door opening, window will not set - lock changed twice to no avail
  • Car does not recognise passenger rear door (occasionally) - lock changed once to no avail
...and yes, I will be sourcing a second key! :-D

cheers all
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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3,952 Posts
Drivers window not set suggests you tried to open it but as it was frozen to the rubbers, it stalled. But, combine that with the radio code in says that something made it think the battery had been momentarily disconnected. No idea why it decided to lock itself though, faulty microswitch in one of the front doors maybe, affected by the cold?

The only time I've had a problem in cold weather I had the opposite, the drivers door latch had frozen so the door wouldn't shut. Well, it would shut but the latch didn't so it just opened again......
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Aloha,
Run through the electrical sticky at the top of the forum, and pay very close attention to the numerous earth points as it sounds like a possible ground loop which happens when a multi point earth terminal becomes corroded or loose.
The radio code issue is an indicator here.
This does not however preclude an burnt or corroded fuse box under hood. It is easy to get to and remove / inspect. look for burnt or corroded lands (Traces) on the board
If you have not done so, download Rave and seek out all the earth points. Remove, clean and tighten every one of them.
As for the doors not being recognised? Earth points or door switches?
Cheers.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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690 Posts
It will relock a minute or so after unlocking if you plip it but don't open any doors - or if you *do* open a door but the switch is faulty so the BECM doesn't see the door open.
 

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2,565 Posts
Doesn't really add up to me, it won't lock with the engine running unless your inside and press the sill lock, suppose it could trigger on slamming the door if the drivers latch is faulty, but it would have to stay faulty, which seems unlikely.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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690 Posts
It's things like this that make me less inclined to want to fix my front door lock motors...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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It's things like this that make me less inclined to want to fix my front door lock motors...
Heck! It's things like this that make me want to DISABLE my front door lock motors!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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282 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The stealership want £148 plus VAT (20% UK tax) for a new key....ouch!

There is something very wrong with the whole elctrical system I think.

Today we had EAS issues. She's not leaked for ages, but a leak is what I assume went wrong as the drivers front bag was completely flat. The other 3 were at height.
24 hours since she's been moved, so clearly she's not settling right - I would have expected her to be on the bumps or at least down but level.

Anyway, I was in a hurry and was keen to get the body off the tyre, so, without starting or un-locking the car I jacked up the drivers side chassis rail and put a block in between the axle and the bump stop as a temporary measure.
Whilst doing the same to the passenger side front and there was a loud "pop" and the drivers bag re-inflated (its now remarkably hard)....totally bemusing to me...

Earth points have been cleaned and tightened (I used the printed genuine "Electrical Troubleshooting" manuals not RAVE - is there a difference?), but clearly not well enough or I've missed one, so I'll check again.
The results from going through the sticky were also ok earlier this year, but when the weather eases I'll have to check them again too.

The wife pointed out I have a complete loom from a Disco 300tdi in the workshop and (I quote) helpfully suggested "can't you just put that in?" ...oh how I laughed :-D
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey Gilbertd, thanks for info,

I've read the link and I can't find reference to a 7/16th spanner or a welder so that one is way beyond my skills :confused:
I shall have to plump for a replacement I think

cheers
 
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