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Discussion Starter #1
As the title states. I unlock with the key, and it keeps locking itself. No fob in this scenario. I only use the key, fob doesn't work and havent used it in years. They key was working fine just a few days ago.

Any idea?

Best,
Ashtray
 

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Isn't it one of the symptom when the door latch starts to go bad? Another possibility that I can think of is that when you're actuating the latch with your key, you're not fully moving the mechanism to the destination position, causing the mechanism to revert back to the original position. This may also be a latch problem or the rod connecting the door lock mechanism to the latch may be dislodged slightly.
 

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Most likely the plunger on the CDL switch in the latch is worn. You turn the key which manually unlocks the drivers door and operates the CDL switch so the central locking opens the other doors but as you release the key the switch releases slightly which makes the central locking system think you have just locked it so it locks again.

As you are in the US you can get a good deal on a replacement latch as they are the same as those used on the MGTF. As there aren't many LHD cars in the UK, Rimmers have them on clearance Front Door Latch Assembly - LH - Remote and Key Operation - FQJ102292PMA - Genuine MG Rover | Rimmer Bros
 

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OMG, thanks for the link! That's a huge deal! I think I might get one just because it's so cheap. I thought I got a deal when I paid around $150 for mine. This deal takes the cake.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay. So do I just act fast and when it's unlocked open the door and begin working on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay. Part ordered. Thank you guys. Hopefully the install is easy.
 

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Okay. Part ordered. Thank you guys. Hopefully the install is easy.
Just to let you know, there are several types of LHD driver side latches dependent on the year of your car. I'm not sure whether the parts are interchangeable, or require some fiddling.

As for the install, I did mine last month. I was initially fretting the work, but turned out to be fairly straight-forward job. The key was to remove the rod connecting the outside door lock mechanism to the door latch, by prizing open the clip (delicately) that secures the rod to the backside of the door lock mechanism. This was probably the most delicate aspect of the work. Once this was done, other aspect of the install was pretty easy for me.

Prior to the repair, the odds of synching the key fob was like 1 in 1000 tries (or more tries, actually). Now, it syncs the first time, so I don't fret disconnecting the main vehicle battery any longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just to let you know, there are several types of LHD driver side latches dependent on the year of your car. I'm not sure whether the parts are interchangeable, or require some fiddling.

As for the install, I did mine last month. I was initially fretting the work, but turned out to be fairly straight-forward job. The key was to remove the rod connecting the outside door lock mechanism to the door latch, by prizing open the clip (delicately) that secures the rod to the backside of the door lock mechanism. This was probably the most delicate aspect of the work. Once this was done, other aspect of the install was pretty easy for me.

Prior to the repair, the odds of synching the key fob was like 1 in 1000 tries (or more tries, actually). Now, it syncs the first time, so I don't fret disconnecting the main vehicle battery any longer.
Thank you for the heads up! Now when I go to install...I'll have to be fast to open the door as I unlock it..once I've opened the door, do I pop open the hood and disconnect the battery? Or is this job okay to do with the battery still connected?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you figure out which door latch? You would think it would always be the drivers door but mine was passenger.
Mine was LH door latch. At least I hope..thats what I bought.
 

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When I did my repair, I disconnected the battery, kept the hood open, and kept the passenger side window open just in case. I also made sure I disconnected the battery while the central door lock was in an unlocked state.

In my case, disconnecting the battery didn't cause any unforeseen issues, like EKA lockout, for example. Any reason you're reluctant to disconnect the battery? With the new latch installed, fob sync is a piece of cake. Mine synced on the first try.
 

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Why would you want to disconnect the battery? Just open the door, remove the trim, take out the old latch, fit the new one and put it back together. As soon as you connect the new latch (with working microswitches) all the other doors will unlock anyway.
 

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I disconnected the battery just as an extra precaution. Probably not necessary, but figured it wouldn't hurt.

I think it's good news for the OP, having the knowledge now that the battery can stay connected.
 

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I have changed door latches on my previous 98 and on my 2000 without disconnecting the battery and experienced no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So the part linked up there is not the right part for my 2000 P38. Different connectors. Going to return it. Also, I think disconnecting the battery might be a good idea because my car kept beeping randomly. Going to find the right part.
 

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What connectors do you have? The only diference usually is that the smaller connector of the two has two wires but only one (the black wire) is connected. Most cars have a two pin connector but with only one wire used.
 

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When you get the door card off (hidden screw under the pop-off tweeter cover), take pics of which rod goes into which lever, and their orientation. Also of how the harness is routed through the door frame, to clear the window. On the latch, there is a flat metal bracket sticking out at about 10 o'clock which is not used in the p38 (check your picture)...cut some off it at the kink and make it a lot less frustrating wrangling the latch back in.
 
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