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Discussion Starter #1
So my P38 is running hot. However, the temp gauge reads perfectly normal. I don't believe the gauge is broken, as it starts cool as it should, and gradually increases as I begin to drive. However, when I get out of the vehicle, it isn't uncommon for the electric fans up front to be sucking air, and when I pop the hood to cool her down, it's very hot underneath. There is also a somewhat common 'ticking' noise while the engine runs.

This wasn't an issue, but I took it wheeling this weekend and it started then. I was in Lo-Range for the near entire weekend, quite often in Lo-1 or Lo-2. I've had the vehicle Krown rust-proofed a couple times, and there's quite the buildup of Krown and mud/dirt now underneath the car, and I fear this may be the culprit. Unfortunately, I'm not sure as to how I can remove it, as it's not easily accessible by hand, and the whole point of Krown is so that it can't be removed by water (hose), which makes it hard for me to remove.. The rad seems to be free of dirt and mud, but I plan on cleaning it anyway. I've decided not to run the AC until this problem is resolved, as I think it could be a part culprit too. I checked all my hoses, and they appear to be connected fine. The coolant level seems fine. I don't have a temp-sensor, but I can tell you that the hood-release latch the other day was quite hot to touch. All of this though while the temp-gauge remains steady in the centre, and the vehicle seems to run fine.

I've done a fair bit of searching and reading. Unfortunately, what I've done is the extent of my mechanical knowledge as far as diagnosing and repairing is concerned. I plan on taking it to a friend tomorrow for his diagnostic, as he's a local LR independent mechanic. Hopefully she's still kickin' strong, as I dunno if I could lose her yet.

Any suggestions?
 

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Hmm.... From the sound of it, the rangie is working great. The front fans should come on when the truck gets warm and it sounds like it is effectively cooling down the engine. I have run in 4-low and it will strain any motor as you are revving the engine with minimal airflow from speed. The fans are required to maintain adequate airflow across the radiator.

Just to be safe, pressure test the cooling system, but it sounds like it is working well.

I just hope mine will be working that well when I get my new radiator... I have changed fan clutch, thermostat, and waterpump already.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did figure that the high revs and low airspeed warranted a hot engine. That's not what's worrying me. It's that now, when home, while driving on normal streets for the day, the engine is still quite warm to open. I read in another thread to keep on the lookout for things like ticking noises. My engine has been making ticking noises today while running, almost like a clock on speed. I'm not sure if this is just a bad bearing or something ticking in the fan, and I'll check, but I worry that it could be the sign of something worse.

I am trying to learn how to diagnose these problems and hopefully eventually fix it all myself, as mechanics are of great interest to me. However, until I am there, all I can do is be a worry-wart and ask all you guru's to help.

Thanks in advance,

John
 

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is it a tick-tick-tick-tick or a knock-knock-knock-kncok?

one is ok and the other is deadly lol which is it?
 

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Do yourself a favor John, and invest in an infared temp gun. That way you'll know if it's getting to hot.

Start playing with it, and you can see the "hot spots" of the engine. You'll find it interesting. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
DCNick said:
is it a tick-tick-tick-tick or a knock-knock-knock-kncok?

one is ok and the other is deadly lol which is it?
It's a tick tick tick... doesn't happen all the time, sometimes hard to replicate for others to hear. But it definitely happens, and has happened before as well. The engine doesn't seem to run differently, but sometimes i hear it and i always just thought of it as a bearing or a timing belt problem. Is it worse?

tyinger said:
Do yourself a favor John, and invest in an infared temp gun. That way you'll know if it's getting to hot.

Start playing with it, and you can see the "hot spots" of the engine. You'll find it interesting. :thumb:
I think i'm going to. It seems as thought it would be a fairly easy way to learn my way around the engine, temp wise. Could be valuable knowledge some time I think.

I'll keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm picking up a temperature gun today. Is there anywhere in the engine I should be focusing on to get the readings? I remember somewhere on the forum I saw at one point what the acceptable temperature ranges were for the engine. I'll try to find those values again.

Also, as I've checked the radiator (clean) and the coolant levels (adequate), I plan on checking the thermostat next. I fear that it might not be opening at the right temperature. Thoughts? How can I confirm this?

Lastly, when running the vehicle last night, while letting it cool, the big coolant hoses from the rads were very hot to touch. Could this simply be an indication of bad coolant fluids? I'm going to have the system flushed and replace the fluids I think.
 

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I think its the norm for the top hoses to be hot to touch. mine always have been. i think, and please people step in if im wrong, the engine coolent runs at just below 100 degrees c as the norm.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update:

So I went and got myself an infrared temperature gun. I bought a Ryobi unit from Home Depot if anybody is curious. I just drove home from the movie theatres, which was about a 5-10 minute drive. When I got home, I went out with my gun and took some readings. It was dark, but I did my best. The hottest reading I got was 189 degrees on the large coolant hose connected to the top of the radiator on the left side. I'm under the impression that normal running temperatures are between 150 and 200, however is this not somewhat hot for such a short drive? Tomorrow morning I am going to retry to clean the radiator, just in case I didn't get everything out properly. I am also going to replace all the coolant in the engine, as I feel as though some good quality stuff might make a difference. I've heard good things about Engine Ice? Any other preferences?

This is where I'm at. Hopefully I'm on the right track. :pray: If not, please let me know.

Thanks,

John
 

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On a P38 the thermostat starts to open between 176-183F and is fully open at 204F

The scanguage plugs into the OBD2 connection can among other functions displays temperature and volts,
http://www.scangauge.com/

On mine the scangauge indicates a temp of between 188 and 195F and the temp gauge sits fractionally below halfway, idling in traffic or long uphill freeway climbs in 100 plus degrees with a/c on it never goes above 204F and will drop to 195F with a/c off.

Except for last weekend in Mojave.

When running Nightmare Gulch when temps were well over 100F, and while sitting idling for over half an hour at a time with the a/c on, winching, and with no wind on the canyon floor the scangauge consistently showed 225F but did occasionally spike to 233F (temp gauge 3/4 position). If i shut off the a/c, opened the hood, and raised the rpm to 1000rpm the scangauge showed 225F. Scangauge showed 218F if i turned the heater on full blast. at idle.

Once moving at a crawl in 4Lo first gear the temp would drop to 209-218F with the a/c on.

Only when the scan gauge showed aprox 218F did the auxiliary fans come on.

I have always noticed the slight fluctuations depending on conditions with the factory temperature gauge and the scangauge has given me some reference points. No idea how accurate the scangauge readings are but it does show that the engine temp gauge does move (albeit not very much) with changes in engine temp.

11 o clock position 188- 192F
12 0 clock position 195-204F
1 o clock position 207- 218F
2 o clock position 225-233F

Previously I have only had the temp gauge reach the 2 o clock position was when I had a slipping fan clutch and the auxiliary fans did not come on.
The few times I have had my axillary fans stay on after I switched off the engine has been in Death Valley with temperatures over 110F.
At idle if I switch on the auxiliary fans manually the temp will drop by 3-5F but raising the rpm to 1000rpm has twice the effect.

Cooling system is in good condition, 50/50 green Prestone antifreeze, K-seal and no coolant loss. Mobil1 15/50
This was also with a seized transfer box viscous coupling. I used just under half a tank of gas, with engine running for aprox 6 hours to travel aprox 25 miles. No LR's overheated, but 4 out of 9 did suffer some damage and there were several lengthy vehicle extractions

With the Audi heater core modification I melted the rubber mudflap strips I had used for packing, (but not the heater box)
[attachment=0:2sa5bxig]photo (8).JPG[/attachment:2sa5bxig]
 

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