Joined
·
14 Posts
Hi All,
I have a problem with my UK Range Rover P38 1996 4.6 Auto
The Crank sensor (CKP) is mounted through a plug in the bell housing. This plug (It transpired) was moving. This first caused a problem where on hard acceleration or when reaching a speed >70mph the car started to misfire. Once this happens the engine has to be switched off and on again, it is not possible to drive through it. Once engine is switched off and on again it will run fine.
When I first had this problem I removed CKP and could see a marking on the black part of the CKP where it was touching the top of a tooth. I spaced it with a washer each side and it ran fine for another 4000 miles.
On a trip to Ireland the problem re-occurred. I removed the CKP again and found the bung/plug to which it is mounted is loose (on the inside of bell housing). It is now so loose I can push it in by hand and twist it about.
There is a LR tech bulletin on this and a bracket was fitted to the CKP to keep it in place. Mine does not have this.
I have now tried to centre it as well as possible to the trigger teeth, but tbh it is a bit of a guess given the access and then made a tool to allow me to pull the bung back into the hole. However, trying to centre (not skewed in the hole) is again a guess and I have no idea how far it should pull out, ergo it is unlikely to be in exactly the same place. Later today I will be trying to space the sensor depth so it does not touch the teeth and seeing if it works... If so I will epoxy the bung in its location and cross fingers it does not come loose....
If not I am looking into a crank mounted trigger wheel behind the pulley (same as my TVR) as an alternative to removing the gearbox.
Does anyone know the following...
Is it possible to pull the bung/plug out from the outside (appears to not be possible so far..)?
Is the plug/bung keyed in any way so that it will only pull back in place with the correct alignment (does not appear to be)?
If I go trigger wheel, can I just use a 36-1 trigger wheel behind the pulley? I have seen mention of a 36-2 and 36-1 for GEMs P38 - I can check this tbh.
I have read that Gems CKP is set to 20 deg After TDC Many of the ones I have seen only have 4/6 bolt holes, I will need one with slots to time correctly?
Does the Pulley then have to have the reverse machined to remove the width of the trigger wheel (assume it does)?
Will any two wire crank position sensor work? Any suggestions on mounting - I made one for the TVR so not really a problem to mount?
If I do choose to pull the gearbox inc bellhousing to get at the bung/plug I assume the reluctor ring is attached to flywheel. This will still make locating the plug/bung in the correct position in the bellhousing very difficult/impossible.
Any other suggestions that don't involve pulling the gearbox although I can do this if I have to.
Thanks,
Matt
I have a problem with my UK Range Rover P38 1996 4.6 Auto
The Crank sensor (CKP) is mounted through a plug in the bell housing. This plug (It transpired) was moving. This first caused a problem where on hard acceleration or when reaching a speed >70mph the car started to misfire. Once this happens the engine has to be switched off and on again, it is not possible to drive through it. Once engine is switched off and on again it will run fine.
When I first had this problem I removed CKP and could see a marking on the black part of the CKP where it was touching the top of a tooth. I spaced it with a washer each side and it ran fine for another 4000 miles.
On a trip to Ireland the problem re-occurred. I removed the CKP again and found the bung/plug to which it is mounted is loose (on the inside of bell housing). It is now so loose I can push it in by hand and twist it about.
There is a LR tech bulletin on this and a bracket was fitted to the CKP to keep it in place. Mine does not have this.
I have now tried to centre it as well as possible to the trigger teeth, but tbh it is a bit of a guess given the access and then made a tool to allow me to pull the bung back into the hole. However, trying to centre (not skewed in the hole) is again a guess and I have no idea how far it should pull out, ergo it is unlikely to be in exactly the same place. Later today I will be trying to space the sensor depth so it does not touch the teeth and seeing if it works... If so I will epoxy the bung in its location and cross fingers it does not come loose....
If not I am looking into a crank mounted trigger wheel behind the pulley (same as my TVR) as an alternative to removing the gearbox.
Does anyone know the following...
Is it possible to pull the bung/plug out from the outside (appears to not be possible so far..)?
Is the plug/bung keyed in any way so that it will only pull back in place with the correct alignment (does not appear to be)?
If I go trigger wheel, can I just use a 36-1 trigger wheel behind the pulley? I have seen mention of a 36-2 and 36-1 for GEMs P38 - I can check this tbh.
I have read that Gems CKP is set to 20 deg After TDC Many of the ones I have seen only have 4/6 bolt holes, I will need one with slots to time correctly?
Does the Pulley then have to have the reverse machined to remove the width of the trigger wheel (assume it does)?
Will any two wire crank position sensor work? Any suggestions on mounting - I made one for the TVR so not really a problem to mount?
If I do choose to pull the gearbox inc bellhousing to get at the bung/plug I assume the reluctor ring is attached to flywheel. This will still make locating the plug/bung in the correct position in the bellhousing very difficult/impossible.
Any other suggestions that don't involve pulling the gearbox although I can do this if I have to.
Thanks,
Matt