RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I posted previously about my 2001 P38 that I bought with a known EAS problem (was on the bump stops). I'll cut through all the troubleshooting I did to the present situation: I did find that the rear springs were pretty bad (heavily corroded metal connectors to the air lines) and front didn't look so hot either (dry rot) so I replaced all of them. I got a new valve block, and that didn't seem to fix my problems so I swapped out the controller module and also the CPU unit. With the new valve block, and new springs, lo and behold I run it, the rear rises way up, front right rises normal and front left not at all. Then the right rear spring BLOWS OUT. Hmmm. So I replace the spring, check everything, run it, boom. Blows another one.

Ok so I assume the new valve block's bad. I get an o-ring kit and replace the (bad) o-rings in the old valve block (just the ones that the air lines go into). Reinstall, run it, rear rises way up (like 156 height+-) and the fronts don't go anywhere. I go on my EAS Unlock software and try to deflate the rear: no error messages, and while the program runs through the deflate process, no air comes out.

Ok so now I release most of the air from the rear, replace the front height sensors (although I never get any error codes at all). Then I run it, rear goes way up front not at all. But get this. I shut it off so that it doesn't go too high and then return about 10 minutes later, and the rear is sky high: near blowout height. It's been rising since I shut the car off.

Any ideas what I have here? I basically have two of everything and I've been swapping them in and out to eliminate each component. What I haven't changed or checked is the relay, but the compressor runs fine (and actually runs all the time, it never really shuts off). I do not think I have any leaks as I carefully connected all air hoses and lubed them etc.

I also haven't changed out the rear sensors although I get good data as to height on the program, and no error codes.

Any ideas?

thank you...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
930 Posts
Sounds like something is screwed up inside the valve block. I would go through the overhaul again, and double check everything. Wiring, o-ring positioning, solenoid location, non-return valve condition and orientation, etc, etc.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
I worked on one car where the EAS wasn't working even though the owner had spent a fortune having the compressor rebuilt, new air springs and rebuilt valve block. That was doing some very strange things and it turned out that whoever had rebuilt the valve block had put the solenoids back on in the wrong places. Unless the valve block was a known good one and you'd seen it working, that could well be your problem. If you rebuild a valve block the internal O rings are more important than the ones on the colletts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok thanks, I will check those things. I heard air escaping from the old valve block when I'd manipulate the air lines so that's why I replaced those o-rings...but now I will do that, open it up and check the internals. As for both of these valve blocks having similar problems, I understand it's possible to buy a new part that's bad (I've done it a number of times) and the seller of the new valve block has been unresponsive....but I find it interesting that both valve blocks would have relatively similar issues i.e. pumping up the rear and not the front, and blowing up (or nearly doing so) the rear. And, the issue where the rear rises while sitting idle is conspicuous to me....when I got the car, I would get it to inflate relatively level but then it would adjust down to the stops overnight. Now this problem is a new one after replacing all the leaky parts. But I think you're right there's something in those two valve blocks that's a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ok here's where I stand on this So I swapped out the new valve block with the old one (with new o-rings in the collets) and got the same condition: never would inflate the front left spring, I think minor inflation on front right, rear right spring would inflate waaaaaaaaaay up, nothing on rear left.

Swapped back after examining the new valve block. Found that the one nonreturn spring that was supposed to be the other way, wasn't. It was the same direction as the others. Turned it around and reassembled. Put it back on and same thing: rear right spring is only spring operating. Very little air in front springs (when I pull the air lines I get almost nothing escaping from front left, very very little from front right but more). No inflation on rear left, rear right way up.

So just for sanity's sake I hooked up schraders to each line and pumped up each corner to 60psi, then ran the car to see what it would do now with the sensors ostensibly sending reasonable heights, and I run it for a little bit and then the right rear starts inflating way way way up, over 100psi when I shut it down (so that I wouldn't blow up another air spring).

I've also swapped out the ECU with another and I also reinstalled the controller unit vs the new (used) one that I had bought to try that angle.

So, does anyone have any clues here as to why it would only inflate the right rear yet not ever return any error messages or codes (I use RSW to check that)? Also, the RSW software will invoke the deflation test, but it will never deflate i.e. the software says it's deflating but it never does. Also, when car is shut off and it's sitting there, after the right rear has inflated a lot, when sitting it will slowly rise some more as if air is leaking into the spring.

I also visually checked the relay under the seat (looks new) checked impedence on the relay in the engine bay, all fuses.

Traced wire harness from ECU into engine bay, all looks very good.

Visually examined all wires in the valve block area, all look good, connectors look good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hmmm, I think so because they sort of line up that way. I'll double check but they are stock lines, and they all pretty much line up as a group on their proper collets. But good idea, I'll verify with the diagram.
 

·
Registered
1999 P38 HSE 4.6 THOR
Joined
·
42 Posts
I don't know anything (really) about EAS, mine has always just worked, but I like the thought process on the last idea...maybe the lines are wrong and you're filling an air spring instead of the reservoir tank?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Alright problem solved. I'm an idiot. So when I put the block assembly back together, I didn't consider the fact that two of the connector pairs in the unit are the same size and shape. So I switched them. So now we know what happens when you do that. It blows up your right rear bag and does nothing for the others. I knew it was something dumb. :rolleyes::unsure::cautious:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
I discounted it as you'd tried two different valve blocks and both did the same thing, but I've come across a similar problem before. On that one the valve block had been rebuilt but the idiot that did it hadn't bothered to mark the solenoids when he took them off. I suspect he must have dropped them or something and then put them back anywhere, out of the 7 solenoids, 5 were in the wrong place......
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top