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Discussion Starter #1
So I installed a new valve block on a P38 that I recently bought which had been leaking down.

Air springs seem fine with no major leaks, I think the leakdown was the line from the valve block to the air tank....there was a sketchy connector there that I replaced. But I replaced the valve block anyway as it wasn't so hot. Seems no more leaks but....

Now the front left spring won't inflate at all. I applied compressed air and it doesn't show any leaks, but it won't take any air at all: there's none coming out of the valve block to this wheel. When I leave the car overnight, it doesn't do any self leveling and it doesn't sit down to the stops like a hard fault.

It did sit down on the stops while idling the car to pump it up once, but only once.

The compressor seems to want to keep on running and never really shut down, although the rear and front right springs are inflated (front right at 57, rear at 126 and 150, front left at 43 i.e on the stops).

I got the RSW scanner and things seem to function ok, but I invoked the 'deflate' function on the rear and front ( individually) and it would count down and say it's deflating but it wouldn't deflate, oddly.

I scanned for codes multiple times with no codes. Except once: It gave "RR valve stuck open, RR valve stuck closed, exhaust valve stuck open, vehicle speed fault, target heights incorrect, pressure signal constantly low, Exhaust valve stuck closed".

Then I cleared it and ran codes again after operating it and no codes.

Anyway, where should I go from here? The fact that the front left won't inflate, would that suggest a bad solenoid on the new valve block unit? Could this be the computer?

thanx...

George
 

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When you say a new valve block, do you mean brand new, reconditioned or just new to you?
 

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Did you get the complete unit with driver pack or just the valve block? I assume just the valve block? It isn't unknown for the connections in the plug and socket between the driver pack and the valve block to lose tension so they don't make decent contact. You can check the driver pack relatively easily by connecting 12V to pins 12 and 13 (Red wires), ground to pins 10 and 11 (Black wires) and then applying 12V to pins 1 to 6 and 8 in turn. You should be able to hear each of the solenoids click as you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you get the complete unit with driver pack or just the valve block? I assume just the valve block? It isn't unknown for the connections in the plug and socket between the driver pack and the valve block to lose tension so they don't make decent contact. You can check the driver pack relatively easily by connecting 12V to pins 12 and 13 (Red wires), ground to pins 10 and 11 (Black wires) and then applying 12V to pins 1 to 6 and 8 in turn. You should be able to hear each of the solenoids click as you do.
Yup, I got the valve block with the solenoids. No driver pack. I did clean all connectors and re-fit them all today....I should probably locate the pins for that solenoid and check it...I was wondering if there are any known other issues fitting my symptoms like bad driver pack or ecu..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I looked again and ran it and here's the big picture: first of all I swapped the front two air lines at the valve block to eliminate a leak on the left side as the issue. Doing this, basically neither came up when running it. When removing the air lines, the right side (valve opening) blew a fair amount of pressure out but the left side, only a little pressure, almost none, but some. This is consistent with when the lines were where they should be.

When operating the engine the compressor runs fine, rear sits up around 150+ i.e very high, front really never came up. Using the RSW software, I tried deflating rear and front, I get some clicks but no deflation. Same for the air tank. Previously, when the car is at rest, I would open a door, hear a number of sounds like solenoids actuating, then close door, and suspension would do some leveling. There's really none of that now.

Yesterday when running it, the car would go into "hard stop" mode i.e. a couple times it did lower all the way to the stops front and rear but today none of that.

I may swap my old valve block in to see if it's that although I suspect this is something else i.e. maybe the driver module?
 

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Problem with the driver module usually only affects one channel, so one corner isn't being driven open or the inlet or exhaust aren't being driven. If it was the inlet, it wouldn't raise at all as even though the individual corner valves are open, there's no air being supplied to them. If it was the exhaust, that wouldn't open to allow the air out so none would drop, not even if it hard faults. The fact that it drops when it hard faults means the exhaust is being driven open when told to. What was the original fault that made you replace the valve block?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well...when I purchased the car the suspension had been acting up (I have no real details) but then finally fell to the stops. When I got the car there was a connector in the block to tank line which I found out later had been leaking: when I installed the new block I finally heard the air coming out of that, so I took it out. So I think it fell to the stops due to gradual leaking from that. Nonetheless, the dealer who had been doing the maintenance on the car for the prior owner for some time told me that they had replaced several compressors over the years due to problems, but not the block and that the block was the next thing they would replace. I went ahead and did that and also took the leaking offending connector out of the line.

I did see, with the old block and the line leak, that it would fall to the stops overnight.

Now, with the new block, it's a fairly new set of problems. As you say above: 'problem with the driver module usually only affects one channel' which describes that my front left corner isn't been inflated. And I should also say that in testing this, some of the problems come and go i.e. it's not raising, then all of the sudden the rear raises up. Twice, it did lower to the stops but mostly it doesn't lower at all. Right now the rears are up near their tops and both fronts are down at or near stops. So I really don't have a consistent set of symptoms at present but the most consistent would be that it's not self-leveling at all, and that the front left won't come off the stops (there is a little bit of pressure in there but almost none).
 

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I'd be inclined to refit the original valve block and see if it reacts the same. Before connecting the driver pack to valve block plug and socket, give it a squirt with contact cleaner. If you are using the RSW EASUnlock software you can go to the Heights tab and click on Read Heights, then operate each corner one click at a time. Try that with each corner but you'll have to wait until it has been running for about 10 minutes to build up pressure. If leave a door open to inhibit it trying to do anything and wait until the compressor cuts out, then you'll know it is up to pressure. Once up to pressure close all doors and tailgate and ensure that one light on the display is static and one flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok thanx, I will try that. I was thinking of refitting the old. I will do that...thanx for the ideas!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so here's where I'm at. I installed the previous valve block with my new controller unit that I got on eBay. Same issues, ran it, front left never came up and I gave it the squirt bottle test and it appeared to be leaking from the bottom of the spring. So I figured that's that, I got new Arnott springs and installed them. At the same time I reverted to my new valve block because the old valve block did show some general leaking from the 4 airbag outlets if you manipulated the tubes at all. Seems the o-rings may be worn. So I went back to my new valve block, with the 'new' controller unit, new front airbags, ran it and same thing: no inflation front left. I pulled the front airbag tubes out of the valve block one by one and the front right had some air coming out and the front left did not seem to be supplying air.

So do I have a compound problem i.e. I did have an air leak in front left bag but also the solenoid on the new valve block is not operating? Or something else? LMK any ideas before I revert to the old valve block again, or put a new solenoid on the new valve block.
 

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I'm no expert just sorting an issue with mine at the moment - could this be caused by a faulty level sensor on the front left? Telling the EAS that the bag is inflated when it's not?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm no expert just sorting an issue with mine at the moment - could this be caused by a faulty level sensor on the front left? Telling the EAS that the bag is inflated when it's not?
Could be...although my RSW software seems to read the heights accurately...and the ECU doesn't seem to throw any codes related to that.

I'm doing a leak test to see if the line from the valve to the left spring is leaking but it doesnt seem to be. I'm going to swap front left and right at the valve block to see if that will blow up the left side.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And now I ran it with the front air tubes swapped at the valve block...still no raising left although when I pull the air tube it does blow pressurized air out. No pressure from the left valve in the valve block. There are no leaks outside of the valve block to the front.
 
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