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P38 down on one corner.

2K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  j_rov 
#1 ·
Hi,
my P38 is down on one corner daily.
I have sprayed the bag, the valve block, the hoses, inlets etc. No Leaks.
I even removed and checked the height sensor FLH, seems fine.

Any help ideas?

Stumped.
Paul.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Perhaps a leak you can't see on the air bag, if the hole is still tucked under the fold Did you spray the bag at extended height? Otherwise I'd just be tempted to rebuild that corner, with a new airbag
 
#3 ·
When I have been investigating a similar problem, I fitted a temporary manual valve in the air line to the bag. Just raise it up to the correct height and close the valve. See if it goes down.
It will tell you if it is the air bag or the valve block.
Use a cheap 6mm pneumatic ball valve off ebay and a short length of tubing from the valve block.
Sometimes the bag will leak on high but the fold in the rubber will cover the leak on lower settings.
With Arnotts the top clamp ring often leaks and you can't get to it with soap solution.
 
#4 ·
thanks Guys.
Days ago I fixed some faults on the height sensor to no avail but just found
out that if you don't clear the fault codes the fault can still happen even
though it's fixed. I've cleared the fault code.

Tomorrow morning will be the test ;)

Paul.
 
#5 ·
Ok, the latest.

My Rangie needed a service so I had it done.
While there I asked my mechanic to spray and check the bags as I have this down on FLH corner problem.

He said he found slight leaks in the bags and suggested replacing the front 2.
So I did. $800 bucks later,,,

Next morning exactly the same. Car is heading down on FLH corner.

BRAND NEW BAGS did not solve the problem.
FL height sensor has been removed and shows no error and no error on Rovacom.

Apparently if it was the driver pack on the valve block suspension would be going crazy. It's not.

Is it the EAS computer?
Is it an electrical connection?
Is it in the valve block somewhere even though a spray show no leaks on outside or any tube exists?

Been working on this going on 3 months.
Completely intractable problem.

I can fix anything but we have no FREAKING diagnosis!
What the hell is wrong with it?

Regards,
Paul.
 
#6 ·
I had exactly the same problem. In the end application of the Sherlock Holmes technique solved it - when all else has been discounted what remains, however unlikely, will be the solution. I came to the conclusion that the air line between the valve block and the air bag must be leaking somewhere along its length so I rigged up a temporary air line and, voila, problem solved. I then installed a permanent solution and no more problems.
 
#7 ·
I have got Arnott Gen III's fitted and they can leak from the top clamp ring which you can't get at with soap solution.
My method was to fit a temporary valve in the air line to the bag. Just pump it up, close the valve and see if it drops.
 
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#8 ·
Could simply be the valve on the block. Front Left is underneath & nearest the relief valve, so you cannot spray it while the valve block is in the car.

Also it's possible to get a small leak on the valves that can only be seen after removing the solenoids. Primary seal for air-bag is the valve not the solenoid.
 
#9 ·
Folks!
today removed valve block and serviced the FL solenoid underneath.
I only had a brand new o ring for the little one.
Used the best of what I had for the rest.
All back , car up, see what happens in the morning.

P.

ps why can't I post photos here ! grrrrr -)
 
#10 ·
so I fixed front left only to discover front right is not the best. then I damaged the front right solenoid and valve trying to fix it in a hurry.
local land rover outlet refused to sell me a tiny o ring. ! shocking. disgusting. we rangie lovers have to be their most valued customers in terms of advocacy so I think this is stupid on their part.
ok I bought a valve block from a wreckers. and an O ring kit for the block.
meticulously re did the block. took my time, 9hrs for a 3hr job.
now it's like a brand new valve block. it's a ripper. no leaks. works perfect! :)
thought I'd post this for others, if you have a leak and it's over 12 years old since the last rebuild, just do the whole block. you'll be glad.
P.
 
#11 ·
Yes. It's an easy repair once you've done it once. Take your time and be careful of the thin o-rings inside the solenoids. It's easy to pinch them.

LR dealers don't sell the kits. XLR on eBay is my source.

Lots on here about rebuilding the. Replace the dessicant in the dryer! When it gets old it disperses white powder throughout the system and the diaphragm will leak.
 
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