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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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361 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Car Vehicle Center console Sedan Mid-size car
Ok all I recently completed this task in my 2002 HSE with the premium Harman Kardon Alpine Sound system.
I read for many hours and gathered information before taking on this project.
It is not hard to do but very very labor intensive. I spent about 23 hours of the course of 2 weeks on installing the system
My rover is not my daily driver so I could leave it in pieces for days on end locked in my garage.
This is not a weekend project unless you have a friend or two to assist and lots of coffee.
First I removed the old head unit, 6 disc changer, amp and subwoofer amp and box.
Then I removed all the door panels, kick panels, rear truck panels, under dash kick plates, glove box, steering column panels etc. etc. I wanted to have noting in the way of running new wires to each door panel and the left rear quarter panel for the subwoofer box. I had the SAT NAV dash plastic which I had to Drexel out the edges and lips on all 4 sides for my head unit to fit. I installed a Pioneer AVHX3800BHS HU which has a 6.2 screen NOT a 7" screen as I wanted to keep it close to stock in appearance. I ran all new wires to each door panel and I recommend going from the door into the rubber boots through the boot and then down into the door. Especially for the rear doors which were harder. This takes time and patience but it can be done. Use a wire coat hanger cut about 14" long and tape it to your wire and then thread it through one piece at a time. I also ran a back up cable rca cable and wire through the tailgate, tailgate boot, down the left side of the truck to the front head unit for the back up camera cable and the reverse wire which needs to be wired to the HU so the HU knows when the truck is in reverse. (Purple/white) for Pioneer. This is a 22' run of wire FYI. I also had to cut into the heater core plastic housing to allow room for the HU to fit and then closed the hole with metal 3m tape designed for ductwork. This is a cut and test fit and then cut, test, cut, test for about 3 hours.
Best tool is a Dremmel and then a naked hacksaw blade in a gloved hand. Then I wired it up and drilled a hole in the truck to install the back up camera. The wires for this I fished through the tailgate the same way as the door. Auto part Tire Automotive tire Electrical wiring Wire

Connect to the white wires on the reverse lights to ground and power the camera. I have indicated the positive wire with blue marker and the ground wire with black. Make sure everything works before replacing all the panels in the truck. (3hours at least). And your done. Compared to the 5 hours on replacing my heater core with and Audi one this job was much much worse. Lol. I'll add photos. Pm with and questions. Hope this helps someone. Wire Electrical wiring Electronics Technology Cable

A pro install would have been $700 for what all I did. So I saved some cash. Automotive exterior Bumper Metal Wood Table
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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361 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes that is next. I had to head out to work. But I'm looking at having a custom face
Plate made with a cubby box for the original radio hole.
Thanks.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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1,414 Posts
I installed a singe din on my 00, the question about the big screen radio, how do you mount it / support it to the dash frame?
mine does not have navi thus I may be missing some kind of hardware.
may try this conversion in the near future.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,259 Posts
For that $700 though, you would not have had any cheesy connectors and an open hole in the middle of the dash. I didn't realize anyone used those crap Scotchblock connectors anymore, never mind where to buy the things. Kinda scared, well not really because it isn't my rig, to see all the other connections......
At least you'll know to shoot Scotty an email when moisture gets in somewhere and screws up the Becm and so on.

Martin
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,227 Posts
You can get the style of Android radio/navigation/bluetooth devices that I installed in my one in a 'slimline' version now (I have a 'driveless' one without CD/DVD drive) which looks to be the same depth as the factory navigation computer - and should fit in the dash with no extra cutting of the heater box required.

The advantage I found on my Android one is that I didn't need an adapter box for the steering wheel controls - the head unit was programmable and recognised the resistive ladder setup the RR uses. The PAC SWI-RC units are good though - I had one on my old JVC head unit and it worked a treat.

95classiclwb... Even on my '01 which had factory nav screen, I still needed to do some cutting and modification on the fascia to get the new unit to fit nicely. I am going to be looking at installing another of the same units in a non-nav fascia at some point for one of my other P38's - and I think it would be easy enough to do - you would just need to cut out the cubby box and trim the plastic bit that goes over the AC aspirator/in car temp sensor - so it ends at the edge of the screen. I don't think it would take too much work to get it looking nice..
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,227 Posts
Marty,
Which "slimline" android unit did you buy ?

Also been looking at these for RCA Line out to Balanced conversion for feeding the HK Door amps properly.

Pete
Hi Pete,

I didn't use a slimline one in mine - I used a full-size 'driveless' version, which was basically a PCB in a big box and a screen on the front... I trimmed the box down so it fits lower in the dash, and it works fine..

I think it was Rayodunne in the 'Tablet Installation' thread that was active on here awhile back who posted up the ebay link to the 'slimline' version, which looked fairly similar to mine, but with a lower screen resolution (was about the only noticeable difference) and was also 'driveless' and a bit more compact/slimline... I'm thinking of getting one to try out on one of my other RR's to make sure it all fits - but think it's likely to work in place without any modifying of the unit casing, like I did on mine..

I like the look of those balance boards... I had looked for some unbalanced - balanced output circuits awhile ago, but couldn't find anything that used a 0-12V power input - only +12V/-12V input - which wouldn't work in a vehicle situation :(

I'm going to look at those boards in more depth once I have some time... might be worth getting a couple to experiment with...

Cheers,
Marty
 

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841 Posts
Marty,
Those boards are 12-0-12 power supply, but I did find some DC-DC converters which should work to provide the split power required, and probably enough power for multiple audio converters covering the 5 channels.

Something like these
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,227 Posts
Very Interesting...

I'll take a closer look when I get some spare time and see about those DC-DC converters....

Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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361 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just reloaded I never updated this thread. When I got more time I went back and soldered and then heat shrinked all my connections after I confirmed they worked. I suggest doing that as well.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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97 Posts
Did you run the wires to the stock amps in the door?
 
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