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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone new to the forums! I have a lovely p38 its my 3rd one its a 1998 4.6 HSE The issue im having is I went to unlock the door cold morning in alaska and it broke the key hole lever piece that connects the rod at the actuator. The car is still locked and the alarm is still set. I was thinking Im gonna need to unhook battery and plug a new actuator in connect battery and hit the lever to unlock the doors will that work? And when I plug it back into the old actuator will the Becm unlock the driver side as that side will be stuck shut still. My next question is on my current actuator LH driver side there is no pigtail and all the replacements im seeing from Roverlandparts and Atlantic British only have the pig tail versions are they compatible? I notice the pig tail version seem like it has 2 plugs from the images. Thanks in advanced for the info.
 

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Does the fob work to unlock it? If not you are going to have to get into the car, remove the door trim panel so you can get to the latch, close the door again and unlock it by pushing down on the rod that was attached to the lock. As long as you do that, it will simulate you unlocking the door with the key and turn off the immobiliser and alarm. The early latches had the wiring loom plugged directly into the latch but they changed to having the pigtail. They are interchangeable, the single connector just has the black (ground) wire in it. The only thing you need to be careful with is that the excess cable is tied away somewhere so it doesn't get caught by the window as you open or close it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thank you for the speedy reply. The key fob won't unlock the door it doesnt even light up thats why I was using the keyhole to unlock/lock. Unfortunately using the medal rod that was once attached to the actuator isn't an option as the doors are super locked and the plastic piece on the actuator snapped all the way off no way to flip it up as it would when you turn the key. Both windows are down and I managed to get the door panel off with the door shut (Super pain) If I plug the new actuator in and hook up the battery let it super lock and then simulate an unlock im thinking it would open at least 3 doors but the driver door with the old actuator will still be stuck shut. Once the alarm and mobilizer are off would I be able to plug it back into the old one and have it unlock or will it just relock all the doors? The actuator itself works fine its just the locking lever broke off of it when I turned the key. Ill attach a image with the piece that broke off.
 

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I see the problem. That's one of the differences on the later latches, that arm isn't plastic but steel with a plastic insert where the rod attaches. I suspect the cold made the latch mechanism inside stuff so it couldn't handle the strain. If you do as you say and attach a new latch to the connector, then yes, that will unlock the other doors but not the drivers door as the latch will still be there and locked. You might be lucky and find that once the other doors are unlocked, you can plug the loom back into the latch and unlock by pulling the sill locking button up on the front passenger door. Although when you unplug the latch the other doors will all lock again. If that doesn't work, you'll need to electrically unlock it. To do that you need to power the superlock and central locking motors. Once you are in the car, plug the loom back into the latch and unplug it at the other end where it plugs into the door outstation. There's 3 wires you need to identify and if you apply 12V to these you can take the superlock off and then the central locking. The loom from the latch goes to C758L, the 20 way black connector on the outstation. There's a Pink/Black wire on pin 2 and a Orange/Pink on pin 8. If you put 12V across this pair of wires it energises the superlock motor. Connected one way round superlocks, the other way round takes superlocking off. You should hear the motor spin when it takes superlock off. If you don't hear it spin with power connected either way round, the motor is dead which isn't uncommon. You think you've superlocked it but in actual fact you haven't. Then find the Orange/Black wire on pin 1 of C758L. 12V connected between that and the Pink/Black on pin 2 operates the locking motor. One way round locks it, the other way round unlocks it. By fiddling around with these, you should be able to take superlock off and unlock the damaged latch. When you put 12V onto these wires, only put it on briefly, no more than a second at a time otherwise you could burn out the motors then you really are in trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright perfect thats exactly what I needed to know thank you so much for all the info I really appreicate it. I will report back soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Upon getting the new part which took forever here in Alaska! I believe they sent me a latch for a newer model but not quite positive. It is a steel latch. But the plug is a single pig tail. I will attach an image. Is there any way to make this work with my current latch?
 

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Your original latch appears to be a very early type, by 98 I would have expected it to have a pigtail. However, the pigtail on the later latches has two plugs on it, a multiway and a single one carrying just the black wire. Not sure what you have there. What part number did you order?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well I had a wrecker pull it from another door and they tested it then sent it here to Alaska. By the images I found it looks as if it came off a 2000-2002. Not sure if this can even work or be spliced some how but I made a quick call over to Atlantic British and ordered the right one brand new 1day air. Ill get this thing figured out. Will update soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well i have the new actuator it connected without a problem although when I flip the lock lever to unlock it does not respond to the other doors. Alarm light still blinking. Does that little black ground wire on the new actuator have to be plugged in or grounded to a bolt? Is there a certain way to simulate an unlock when super locked? I figured the key hole only pulls that one lever attached to the rod so it would unlock it??
 

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Yes, without the single black wire connected to ground, it won't do anything as it signals the BeCM to operate the other doors by applying a ground to the other wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As soon as I hooked up the ground bingo all doors unlocked and alarm is disarmed shes back roaring! Thank you so much for all the help. Still need to get that drivers door latch off and switched out tried the jumper method running one wire from negative battery post and one from positive touched pins 2 and 8 but didn't do much at all. I hear people are able to split the latch relatively quick but im unsure where to actually wack it and split it at.
 

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You need pins 1 and 2 for the locking motor and pins 2 and 8 for the superlock motor. If putting power on pins 2 and 8 didn't do anything with power either way round, then the superlock motor isn't working anyway so just try pins 1 and 2.

If you need to split it, you go in from above, down the side of the window glass and whack it on the top.
 
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