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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone new to the forums! I have a lovely p38 its my 3rd one its a 1998 4.6 HSE The issue im having is I went to unlock the door cold morning in alaska and it broke the key hole lever piece that connects the rod at the actuator. The car is still locked and the alarm is still set. I was thinking Im gonna need to unhook battery and plug a new actuator in connect battery and hit the lever to unlock the doors will that work? And when I plug it back into the old actuator will the Becm unlock the driver side as that side will be stuck shut still. My next question is on my current actuator LH driver side there is no pigtail and all the replacements im seeing from Roverlandparts and Atlantic British only have the pig tail versions are they compatible? I notice the pig tail version seem like it has 2 plugs from the images. Thanks in advanced for the info.
 

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Does the fob work to unlock it? If not you are going to have to get into the car, remove the door trim panel so you can get to the latch, close the door again and unlock it by pushing down on the rod that was attached to the lock. As long as you do that, it will simulate you unlocking the door with the key and turn off the immobiliser and alarm. The early latches had the wiring loom plugged directly into the latch but they changed to having the pigtail. They are interchangeable, the single connector just has the black (ground) wire in it. The only thing you need to be careful with is that the excess cable is tied away somewhere so it doesn't get caught by the window as you open or close it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thank you for the speedy reply. The key fob won't unlock the door it doesnt even light up thats why I was using the keyhole to unlock/lock. Unfortunately using the medal rod that was once attached to the actuator isn't an option as the doors are super locked and the plastic piece on the actuator snapped all the way off no way to flip it up as it would when you turn the key. Both windows are down and I managed to get the door panel off with the door shut (Super pain) If I plug the new actuator in and hook up the battery let it super lock and then simulate an unlock im thinking it would open at least 3 doors but the driver door with the old actuator will still be stuck shut. Once the alarm and mobilizer are off would I be able to plug it back into the old one and have it unlock or will it just relock all the doors? The actuator itself works fine its just the locking lever broke off of it when I turned the key. Ill attach a image with the piece that broke off.
 

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I see the problem. That's one of the differences on the later latches, that arm isn't plastic but steel with a plastic insert where the rod attaches. I suspect the cold made the latch mechanism inside stuff so it couldn't handle the strain. If you do as you say and attach a new latch to the connector, then yes, that will unlock the other doors but not the drivers door as the latch will still be there and locked. You might be lucky and find that once the other doors are unlocked, you can plug the loom back into the latch and unlock by pulling the sill locking button up on the front passenger door. Although when you unplug the latch the other doors will all lock again. If that doesn't work, you'll need to electrically unlock it. To do that you need to power the superlock and central locking motors. Once you are in the car, plug the loom back into the latch and unplug it at the other end where it plugs into the door outstation. There's 3 wires you need to identify and if you apply 12V to these you can take the superlock off and then the central locking. The loom from the latch goes to C758L, the 20 way black connector on the outstation. There's a Pink/Black wire on pin 2 and a Orange/Pink on pin 8. If you put 12V across this pair of wires it energises the superlock motor. Connected one way round superlocks, the other way round takes superlocking off. You should hear the motor spin when it takes superlock off. If you don't hear it spin with power connected either way round, the motor is dead which isn't uncommon. You think you've superlocked it but in actual fact you haven't. Then find the Orange/Black wire on pin 1 of C758L. 12V connected between that and the Pink/Black on pin 2 operates the locking motor. One way round locks it, the other way round unlocks it. By fiddling around with these, you should be able to take superlock off and unlock the damaged latch. When you put 12V onto these wires, only put it on briefly, no more than a second at a time otherwise you could burn out the motors then you really are in trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright perfect thats exactly what I needed to know thank you so much for all the info I really appreicate it. I will report back soon!
 
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