[andyaa]

Hi all - I have alluded to this issue in a couple of my other threads but it's now crunchtime please.

For several years I have had this fault code appear: 'P1179 AMFR correction at its max negative value (driving cylce C)'.

I cannot get rid of it. I clear it and it comes back.

By way of background, I first noticed it about the time I installed Mark Adams chips and an upgraded camshaft a few years ago. But that may be totally unrelated - it was when I first started getting interested in my car which I had not long had at that time. About that time I also installed a K & N filter. More recently I have had a complete engine rebuild to 5.0 l, high comp etc. Still it remains. As I say, none of the events I describe may be relevant.

Most recently, I have cleaned the MAF with MAF spray cleaner and replaced the K & N with the normal style paper filter - neither of which seemed to make much if any noticeable difference - at least to me. Still the pesky fault persists.

Can anyone tell me please: 1. what the fault means, 2. the consequences of it appearing continuously eg is it steadily damaging something, and 3. what I can do to get rid of it once and for all.

I have had a good scout around this site and also the other landrover forums.

Thanks

Regards

Andy

(Melbourne)

 

[RRToadHall]

Sounds like a new MAF is in order. If you K&N fouled the sensor to the point of failure all the c;eaning in the world is not going to bring it back. Don't beat yourself up too much. You aren;t the first to have a MAF fail due to those rediculous "high flow" filters. Sadly you won;t be the last.

 

[pegasus]

I had the exact same code when i first had my car, i replaced the MAF with a genuine one but the code wouldnt go away or clear until all the adaptive values were reset, and i have never had the code again.
Dont know how true it is but the garage that reset it at the time said that the adjustments had gone that far out that the cars computer couldnt pull itself back without a reset, true or not it worked.
mark

 

[SID]

Sounds like a new MAF is in order. If you K&N fouled the sensor to the point of failure all the c;eaning in the world is not going to bring it back. Don't beat yourself up too much. You aren;t the first to have a MAF fail due to those rediculous "high flow" filters. Sadly you won;t be the last.

Yep, mine had one in when I bought the car, took the K&N out and replaced with a paper one. Too late though, over oiled K&N = dead MAF. :roll:

Warnig....Do Not buy a cheap copy MAF on ebay for £60, I did, Looked the part, just did not work as it should. Got an OEM job now and works fine, no error codes come up on my BB.

Sid.

 

[andyaa]

thanks Gents - I will put in a new MAF - crikey I have replaced just about everything else! The old girl has been spluttering and stalling at low revs/idle recently which is probably also a symptom.

However, boondoggling about on the web now suggests that the correct part for mine (98 gems) is ERR 5595 - can someone confirm that please because - the only one I've found which definitely seems OEM is from Rimmers at the jaw dropping price of about 850 quid, link below:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009578

Is this the right one - surely can't be that expensive?


I'll phone the main LR dealers here in Melbourne next week - but often stuff is much cheaper from the UK dealers.

Cheers

Andy

 

[andyaa]

Re redaing pegasus' reply I forgot to add that I have had my adapative values reset several times - most recently a few months ago after my engine rebuild - but the fault came back after that. Also, I haven't oiled or cleaned my K & N since I put it in so maybe I should have - wasn't quite what was meant by 'over oiled'

Regards

Andy

 

[Col]

However, boondoggling about on the web now suggests that the correct part for mine (98 gems) is ERR 5595 - can someone confirm that please because - the only one I've found which definitely seems OEM is from Rimmers at the jaw dropping price of about 850 quid, link below:

Is this the right one - surely can't be that expensive?

That is the right part number and I'm afraid that is about the right price for a genuine part.

I have had the same fault code showing on and off for around 5 years and like you i only noticed it after I had The Mark Adams Chip fitted, clear it and it still comes back, sometimes after a few days another time a couple of months. I fitted a genuine MAF and reset the adaptive values several times and it still comes back. Apart from the re-chip the truck is completly standard, starts and runs fine, returns same mpg as it always has, never had any problems with emissions etc. on the m.o.t.
It has had new plugs, leads, fuel and air filters etc. none of it makes a difference the code still returns, so I rekon if after 5 years it hasn't caused any issues in that time it not going to cause any now, so I just live with it.

Cheers

 

[andyaa]

Thanks Col - that's interesting - you have prompted my memory - someone I took my car to back in time said it was probably related to the Adams chips and he was a bit of a guru I was told - does demos for the faultmate here in Melbourne. Further, you don't have a K & N so that's not relevant to the cause of your fault. I have some new (performance) Admas chips to install which are an upgrade on the previous ones more suitable I am told by Mark following my rebuild. They're being installed next week.

Is there some test or diagnostic I can perform to see if my MAF is performing as it should before committing to buying a new OEM one ? I guess that's the real issue.

My experince with these cars is that so often you might think (or more likely, you are told) something major is wrong or needs replacing but truth be known the problem is not that bad. Lost count of how many times I've been told I need a new BeCm or valve block. Obviously I could just swap it with a new one and see if there is a difference but don't reckon anyone would let me do that without buying the new one first.


The price discrepancy for the genuine part and the others is huge. I note Rimmer has an aftermarket part ERR 5595P for about 190 quid. Then there is the ebay hacks for about 50 quid which I won't touch. Anyone have any experience with the Rimmer aftermarket part? If my MAF is fried I will take the OEM hit (unless the aftermarket part is ok) but don't want to sink my dough if there is nothing wrong with it. How can I tell?

Thanks

Andy

 

[AMcK]

Is there some test or diagnostic I can perform to see if my MAF is performing as it should before committing to buying a new OEM one ? I guess that's the real issue.

Andy

Have a look here - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31924

you will need a diagnostic reader capable of reading the MAF airflow readings - or a local indy who will do it for you. Of course these readings may be different for you due to engine mods

 

[andyaa]

Thanks AMck - tha's an interesting thread.

For those in my part of the world the stealership today put me onto to a mob called petro-ject who they use to recondition MAF sensors. I contacted them and they charge about $400 plus GST with a few days to turnaraound.

Link at:www.pjvic.com.au


The stealership also confirmed the cost of a new one is about $AU1,800.
Cheers

Andy