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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi

How hot is hot ....and how to stop hot.

I have been told that a stripped engine I had fitted 20000 miles ago and supplied by McDonald Engines has had a head gasket failure due to overheating - at some point the heat tabs have been up to 110 centegrade. But the guage has never gone beyond normal (as a RR owner of the same vehicle for 11 years I have always watched the temp guage carefully) a new radiator was fitted 40000 miles ago and the vehicle has not lost much water due to presurising - the main problem has been water weeping out when cold and exhaust gas blowing out the side of the gasket. Furthermore, whenever I have use my OBDII software and I leave the engine running the system always shows 182F.

So...my question is how can the vehicle overheat without me knowing and how do I stop this in the future?

PS. How do you read heat tabs?

The History Man
RR 4.0SE Auto - gas converted.
 

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229 Posts
Could there be something wrong with the gauge preventing the needle going beyond the 12 o'clock position?
 

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G'day mate,
Was the Radiator replaced when reco motor fitted?
ChecK connection to temp sensor ,clean and refit.
check temp on side of block with infered temp checker
Run car to normal temp and ,shut down feel around radiator for cold spots.
Make sure return hose to exspansion tank is not blocked and system is purged correctly.
What type of milage are ya getting with fuel ?
Get it put on a dyno/Rovacom and it will tell any underlining engine problems.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hi

I have checked the temp guage against the engine management temp sensor and they seem to match - and both sensors were replaced just prior to the rebuild. New rad, new water pump and all hoses are clear.
My concern is that why would it go up to 110C as indicated on the heat tabs on the rear core plugs without any other indication such as water loss or a high guage read.
I have also spoken to a former racing engine builder who says that 110C for a short periods when the engine is stressed should not cause the gasket to fail so that exhaust gas is escaping through the side of the gasket.

Any views out there before I go for another rebuild?

The History Man
 

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I read recently that most of RR's overheating problems and the associated blown gaskets/cracked heads are not down to poor design or even stretching the design too far but rather that it was due to the length they went to meet the high emissions standard both in EU and USA. The outcome was very simple. They leaned the mixture up to its limits and as you probably know the leaner the mixture the higher the temperature. So if your mixture is even just a little too lean it could cause serious overheating though why your temp gauge does not pick it up I do not know.

:pray:
 
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