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Luckily just a few blocks from a friend house.

Car had sat parked all morning, ran a few blocks away to get some parts, and less than a block from leaving the parts store the needle suddenly pegged with not warning. I pulled over and shut town asap.

Overflow tank was shaking the boiling was so violent, and the cap vented some coolant. Waited until it was cool and nursed it back to my friends. It pegged again right as I was pulling up. He climbed under and grabbed onto the tstat and lower rad hose. BARELY warm to the touch. Top hoses are insanely hot.

Did the thermostat stick closed? What's going on here?

Anyway to just bypass it and let the engine run a little cool? It's getting replaced in a few weeks, but I still need a car in the meantime. :(
 

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Remove the thermostat and test it. You may also have a failed impeller on your water pump
 

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Discussion Starter #3
PO complained that it would overheat within a mile or two on cold engine but it had always run like a champ for me. So I'm hoping it's the t stat sticking intermittently and not the water pump
 

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Water pump is cheap and easy to install. No need to worry about it being the issue. Open up the recovery tank and see if you hvae coolant flow.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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All possible I would check the pressure cap on the coolant first. image.jpg

This happened to me one day without warning...........and only buy OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I've replaced plenty of GEMS pumps, I'd assume the Bosch engines are similar if not the same?

I've heard people ****ing the new design t stat, is this one of the reasons why? Headed to the hardware store now to try and find some junctions to just bypass it
 

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Well I am not sure what the repeated profanity is for but there is nothing fancy about a P38 thermostat. It's just a standard unit in an odd housing. All you need to do is toss it in hot water and see if it opens... just like any other thermostat. If it opens there's no need for bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry for the hasty responses yesterday - punching my iPhone angrily whilst stranded isn't ever a good thing.

I also broke the crankshaft on my diesel. SO yesterday wasn't a good one for me...


I didi end up boiling the t stat and it failed to open. Frustrated, tired and hungry, I attacked it with a screwdriver and pliers. It actually helped to blow off some steam! And the silver lining is in my angry outburst I also managed to sufficiently "damage" the t-stat door that it's never going to close again. ;)
Flow tested it with a very healthy garden hose and, satisfied with that reinstalled as a stopgap so I could at very least get home to my wife. Gauge didn't go over 1/3 the whole way.

I know it's janky, but it got me rolling again.
 

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For reference, the gauge is electronically controlled and so heavily dampened that it is useless. It does not give any warning of overheat. It stays perfectly in the middle until it shoots up once the engine HAS overheated. Its not that it happened quickly to your engine but that the gauge is so dampened to stay in the middle all the time (so people don't worry and report problems).

I have a digital readout plugged into my OBD port which lets me check the temperature all the time. Scanguage II
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's good to know. It's very much like the same generation BMW's I've had in the passed then (in fact, I'm pretty sure the gauge cluster is the same part, less the iFCD...)

It's annoying that they digitally dampen it like that. There should have been a "everything's fine", "start to worry" and then finally a "overheat" needle position.

Today it stayed close to 1/3 while driving around town. In some traffic with the AC blowing the needle went to 3/8ths but never higher. Also seems slightly slower to reach temp but that's always expected without a closed t stat.
 
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