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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, i have a overheat issue that sprang up today at hwy speed.

history: headgasget done 40,000 miles ago,
expansion tank replaced last week
checked thermostat in boiling water to test opening
top hose always a litttle tight but can still squeeze
no milky or condensation in oil spout
starts and runs great not even a misfire...even today when had problem
just did 60,000 mile service a week ago myself
flushed cooling system and added new coolent a month ago
replaced waterpump 3 weeks ago as berring was going...had a play as i heard it when looking in bonnet
my cooling fans running always...rewired as i live in miami....hot

today at hwy speed i noticed a spike and the needle going to the red. I pulled over and opened hood. My top hose was hot, bottom comming out of raditor was warm...wel not as hot. i had bubbles expansion tank. I slowly opened and let steam out. waited a bit till cooled down and restarted. I left expansion tank cap off to see what is going on. I start to notice small bubbles running up to the expansion tank as it gets at operating tempature. I shut off and waited to cool as i was only a mile from home.Restarted and craweled home at slow speed with expansion cap loose enough to release pressure. yes i did top off before. I got home and was 1 oclock on the temp. Opened hood and the tank was releasing pressure.

Waited to cool down a hour and then refilled talk to correct level and restarted and did a block test when it got to normal temp...12 oclock... a few tinny bubbles and stuffed the block tester on the expansion tank. Fluid stayed yellow and did not go to blue. I have no smoke in the tail pipe and is not wet. Purs like a kitten even when going hot....

could this be that my head gasget has a tiny leak? i have no collent loss. The only thing i could think of is that maybe that my top hose was a little tighter than normal maybe it was slowly going?

the time i had my headgasget done it was boiling to the expansion tank not tint bubbles like now.....did i catch it early? i hope a headgasget job should last more than 40,000 miles....

Anyone to chime in would be great...

Thanks all.....Chris
 

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Hi. Just curious how you did the flush. On the old cast iron blocks we would run a caustic solution for 10 min. or so and then drain from rad and fill from a valve in the heater hose. This would hopefully introduce cold water slowly so the block or heads would not get a crack. Although I've seen it mentioned on here I have not read a detailed procedure for these cooling systems. When doing your flush how did you introduce cold water to the system. What is the condition of your rad? It seems like the rad should be removed to clean it but I am really wondering how you would remove any scale in the water jackets around the pistons. If anyone has the boring details I would love to hear them. My last point is that the system would likely show more pressure as system gets hotter so the hoses could get harder. Have you thought of trying the additive that helps the antifreeze grab more heat. [can't think of the name]
 

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i see you replaced the expansion tank last week, i dont suppose you have an airlock in the system. i had the same overheating problem after changing a radiator hose. I was stressing big time thinking it was a head gasket gone. just took my time ensuring the system was bled properly,and now no more problems.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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guy said:
i see you replaced the expansion tank last week, i dont suppose you have an airlock in the system. i had the same overheating problem after changing a radiator hose. I was stressing big time thinking it was a head gasket gone. just took my time ensuring the system was bled properly,and now no more problems.
That was my first though as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, i was thinking the same but i changed it a few weeks ago....it's been running fine for two weeks.....?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well, i started it up today and let it get to operating tempeture. I had to shut off as i didnt get any bubbles but i did get pressure as i had the cap off and it was getting to the filler neck. I started after about 5 minutes and then i could get the small bubble. Leak test negative again. exaust...normal ...no white smoke. I started to take off one spark plug wire at a time to see if i could locate the cylinder. still bubbles. well bubbles with no exaust to turn test blue, i am thinking a pin hole in the head gasket or the thermostat. i am going to take out the thermostat and break threw the actual valve inside so i can get a constant flow and see if that is causing it to maybe boil over. It's 95 degrees here as of 10:00 this morning so i figure its at least 250 degrees in my engine compartment as i have a black truck so it should always be open. I will post what the results are in a hour or two once the truck cools down.


chris
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well , i knocked out the thermostat on the inside so i can get constant flow. It took a little longer to come up to tempeture but when it came to 12 oclock, it stayed there. i also have the bleeder hose disconnected or off to bleed. Well, i only get a little steam and i ideled it for 30 minutes. pured like a kitten. When i connectd the bleeder line, after about 10 minutes it started to go hot. i turned off and let coool for a bit. disconnected bleeder hose and steam comes out. restart without bleeder hose connected and will idel forever. I am guessing a small pin hole leak somewhere. ANY THOUGHTS? :think:

Thanks Chris
 

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diff said:
Hi. Just curious how you did the flush. On the old cast iron blocks we would run a caustic solution for 10 min. or so and then drain from rad and fill from a valve in the heater hose. This would hopefully introduce cold water slowly so the block or heads would not get a crack. Although I've seen it mentioned on here I have not read a detailed procedure for these cooling systems. When doing your flush how did you introduce cold water to the system. What is the condition of your rad? It seems like the rad should be removed to clean it but I am really wondering how you would remove any scale in the water jackets around the pistons. If anyone has the boring details I would love to hear them. My last point is that the system would likely show more pressure as system gets hotter so the hoses could get harder. Have you thought of trying the additive that helps the antifreeze grab more heat. [can't think of the name]
That coolant additive is Wetter Water made by Redline products :thumb:
Essential for Rovers in exstreme hotter climiates.
Have you checked the search for other threads on proper refilling methods,
Don't use tap water,use distilled water, use a quality coolent for ally blocks,check temp of your rad ,feeling front of core,all around for temp differances and blocked core?
When you squeeze your top hose with expansion cap off do you get a good flow return top radiator return hose? Did you get a new exspansion cap with the bottle,have you replaced all your hoses,there was a recall.replace thermastat with new and radiator, worst senario is flushing out and putting Iriontite into it and hopefully sealling then fit new radiator ,thermastat and hoses.
I would check also your viscous fan coupling and your Air con fans for correct opperation.Fit a new thermastat first thing
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i use the product and have done all the other things. with the theromastat in the open possition it shouldnt overheat but as soon as i connect the bleeder line to the system it will over heat and pressurize in about 10 minutes. as long as the bleeder line is not attached it will idle and not overheat. i am pretty stumped. The ironite is a good idea has i have nothing to lose. :think:
 

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With breather pipe connected to the expansion tank disconnect it at the rad and and see if you can blow through - worth a try? :think:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thats how i have it disconnected. yes i can blow threw it.... im going to flush the cooling system tomorrow and irontite it...I cant be thinking of what it could be as it only make me think what Fuc**&ing idiot could design a system like this..thank god there not involved in avaition...real stupid fuc**^ers is all I can come up with.. :thumb:
 

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Reading your post again as read did you have only one head gasket or the two done as written sound like you had one only,Do replace all hoses and themastat after your irontite flush out ,make sure car is on a uphill angle when you refill and purge the overflow to get all air out. check and top up daily till settle :thumb:
Good luck :pray:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had both done.Anyway, i drained and water flushed out the cooling system. Its pretty clean as i did a more entensive one 10,000 miles ago and i keep after it. I tried a new product this morning as it is the weekend and i cant get anything shipped today. I chose the new Bars headgasket fix . You can add to antifreeze and dont really have to go therw alot of steps so for $30.00, what do i have to lose. I was going to order irontite but have to wait to get it. There was 2 others i was looking at but for todays treatment after reading some reviews, i bit the bullet. As you know i had a bubble in the expansion tank so time was going to be a issue to get this product to where it was needed without having to fight off the pressure. I filled the raditor with the product and then anti freeze mix 50/50. I then filled the expansion tank to the filler neck as when you start it will drop to the fill line. I cranked it over and waited for 15 minutes as that was what they reccomend. At just about 15 minutes it was moving to the 1:00 mark and the hose was a little tight. i shut off and waited about 5 minutes and slowley released the presure out of the expansion tank just enough to let the air and no coolent. When i had the pressure out I restarted and took off the bleeder line at the raditor so it could idel and not build so much pressure"the problem" aand it stayed at 12:00 for another 15 minutes. I then got in and drove it at about 45 miles and hour for about 45 minutes around where I live in case of disaster. It stayed at 12:00 and actually 11:55 as I have my thermostat modified to stay open. I live in florida and it was 95 degrees again today and i wanted to make sure to get the product circulating without anything that could cause undo heat and pressure. I got back and the hose was not tight as before and more importantly, overheating. I am letting it sit to cool like is says in the directions and will take it out later for 30 minutes or so. Tomorrow i will take it on the freeway and around town for a hour or more to simulate my daily driving day which is about 60 miles or so and stop and go traffic in 95 degree heat. I will post tomorrow on the results. Thanks for chiming in...Oh yea, I will change out the thermostat next week when I am sure the problem is fixed.

Thanks all , chris :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update; Drove this morning for about an hour. Covered about 50 miles. round town,traffic, expressway and the freeway. Temp sat at 12:00 and on the freeway a hair below 12:00 about 11:55. No misfires, rough idel or anything in paticular.No leaks or super hard hoses. Collent at level mark. So far i am pretty impressed. I did notice one thing when i shut of though. I am not sure but the fan spun for a couple of secounds after I shut the engine off. I did check when cold and when you try to spin it really wont spin but 3 or 4 inches so it has resistance. i would think it should stop almost as fast as everything else when you shut off. maybe someone can enlighten me... If that is a sign of going, i will change it when i install new thermostat. i will also be replacing all hoses and vacume hoses next weekend. It's on the list. Well, I will keep updating ..

thanks Chris :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update: Well, its been a week now and the truck is running cool with no pressure. I did the bleed proceedure and i also take the cap of for 3 days after that in the morning when cold to make sure any extra air that could have been hiding is gone. I think i only added a cup after the 3 days. It runs cool with no pressure and its been 90 degrees and above for the hole week. Freeway traffic for sometimes 20 minutes at a crawl and stay at 12.

chris 8)
 
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