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Discussion Starter #1
Officially a Clan memeber now...
My girlfriend picked up her 1998 HSE today . `)

Oxford Blue with Creme interior, 115k miles, Fully loaded, even Nav!
Got it from a friend, with pretty much a full service history with one owner since 2001 when it was bought as a Dealer Pre-Owned.
Here is a few Pics..





Ok, now to the issues...
1/ Heater core is bypassed. He does not remember where it was leaking. How would I figure out if its the core or the O rings?
Blend doors were done in 2005.


2/ Headliner is collapsed, but that I can handle. The only issue is that the flock is falling off all of the A and B pillar trims.. Anyone got a suggestion how to make them look good?

3/ Owner says the suspension "Is sometimes slow to lift, but not always"... Pump Seals?

Thats all for now... I am sure I will find lots more to keep me busy!
 

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KeyRange said:
3/ Owner says the suspension "Is sometimes slow to lift, but not always"... Pump Seals?
As I said in the other thread, just redo the whole lot.
Its not a huge amount of cash and then it will be good for many years to come.

At that point, you can put those odd wheels on...
 

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KeyRange said:
2/ Headliner is collapsed, but that I can handle. The only issue is that the flock is falling off all of the A and B pillar trims.. Anyone got a suggestion how to make them look good?
Remove all the flocking.

Bottle of rubbing alcohol, a rag, and a plastic putty knife. It's easier than you'd think. SOAK the flocking, scrape/wipe off.


I covered mine with headliner material. They look great except for the slots for the adjustable-height seatbelts ...couldn't really wrap the edges without fouling the sliders.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had planned to wrap the A pillar, but thought the B and C pillars would be a problem with the seat belt adjuster...
Anyone had any luck with this?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Congrats.

A little woolite and water on the leather will make the wrinkles less obvious by getting the dirt out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, in fact we sprung for the Leathereque kit...
I heard great things about it, so we are gonna try..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Seems the tires on it now are shot, and have bad cracks and one is going flat in about 4 days.
I am gonna try the 20's on it, but what and where am I looking for rubbing beyond the obvious?
if they dont work, I have plan B...
I have a set of 245/60 R18 Bridgestones Duelers in my storage... thats pretty close to the 255/55 R18's that on it now.
Would that work?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Coool!
Am I correct to say that the Lugs nuts are 14x1.5mm thread?
I measured the 20''s and the hub bore looks like 72.6, which I believe is the same as the later model wheels... so I deduce that the 98 has a 70mm hub, so I need a ring...
Anyone care to confirm?
Thanks
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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jgreene said:
They look great except for the slots for the adjustable-height seatbelts ...couldn't really wrap the edges without fouling the sliders.
Lots of patience will get them looking good, foam backing of material needs to be the thin type.
I've done a few and I hate the blooming job but it means I can buy a spark plug or two for my Rangie
 

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jgreene said:
KeyRange said:
2/ Headliner is collapsed, but that I can handle. The only issue is that the flock is falling off all of the A and B pillar trims.. Anyone got a suggestion how to make them look good?
Remove all the flocking.

Bottle of rubbing alcohol, a rag, and a plastic putty knife. It's easier than you'd think. SOAK the flocking, scrape/wipe off.


I covered mine with headliner material. They look great except for the slots for the adjustable-height seatbelts ...couldn't really wrap the edges without fouling the sliders.
I soaked them with simple green and after letting them sit for a couple minutes you can just wipe it off.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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In regards to the larger wheels, I put 2004 19' stock wheels on my p38. The fronts only rub in full lock when the suspension is in low mode.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Wheel diameter makes no difference on rubbing.... it's the tire diameter and width.

That being said, the 04+ 19's come with tires approximately 1/2" taller than the P38's.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So the wheels were put on for a "Test".
Car had been sitting for 2 days so it was on the bump stops I think...
First thing I found is that the way the stock wheels are mounted meansthe wheel stud is very short, and these wheels need "Bulge Acorn" lug nuts, which I got a set locally.
I checked the number of turns I could get on the nuts before they torqued... 6.5 turns... Is that enough or am I gonna need longer studs?
Wheels mounted, on the front, I could put a finger between the top of the front wheel arch and tire when it was in that mode. Rear was fine.
Picture...


Leaving a door open to keep the suspension unpressurised, and starting the engine I get a small amount of contact between the outer edge of tire and the upper edge of the Mudflap, and reversing it makes a mild thump-thump-thump as the tire side lugs touch. I assume I could trim that?
Picture...


Reversed the car of the drive and leaving it still on the bumpstops, here is how it looks... `)





With the suspension in normal road height...





And the clearance in that mode at the front..

A downview as best I could of the front..



The front wheel face does not stick out beyond the body, but if the suspension allowed the wheel to travel further up I guess it would touch the fender return flange.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I realized I mixed up the pics between normal ride and extended pics, but it wont let me edit now... I think you can see whats what!
 

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I love it, Great truck :thumb:
 

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I have a full headliner totally redone for $200 shipped if you want it. just replaced mine and had the shell recovered in the same OEM color as your interior.

I have a completely rebuilt valve block for $350, and you can get the complete airsprings set from Shupack or arnott for like $400ish. it's probably intermittently leaking because of the springs. start with springs and if you still have slow leaks overnight, replace your valve block.

PM me if you need them. I'm in MD.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks,
Gonna do the roofliner myself, as I have the time(just got laid off!).
The springs look pretty new, I didn't see any sign of aging... they are OEM bags, so maybe they were replaced... I am trying to find out.
 

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you can definitely get the uphostlery fabric cheap- it's $13 a yard at joanne fabric and you'll need 4 yards. you'll need at least 54", I think 60, but I could be wrong. you're also going to want to pull the sunroof and replace the slider fabric as well-that's a pain. get yourself about 50 razors, they'll dull so fast it's shocking. You'll need a wire brush as well. for the pillars, use brakekleen-two cans. no need to paint over, the base plastic matches.


On the suspension-check where they usually wear-sometimes depending on the height you're at you wont see them. drop to highway height and look at the base of the spring. If they're not worn, replace your valveblock. if you want to rebuild it, it'll take a morning/afternoon and cost you $30 at www.rover-renovations.com. Otherwise, swap your valve block with a rebuilt or new one. You can also try spraying where the air lines go into the valve block-sometimes the collets are leaking, and some soapy water will show the leaks. If you have some leaks, i suggest rebuilding or replacing the entire block as it's only a matter of time.

Lastly, if your ride is a little rough, you might want to invest in a new set of shocks-based on mileage, they're way due...the best deals i've seen are $250 for a complete set of KYBs and they're easy to change.
 

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KeyRange said:
Reversed the car of the drive and leaving it still on the bumpstops, here is how it looks... `)

I'm not convinced thats on the bumpstops.
I reckon this one is


KeyRange said:
A downview as best I could of the front..



The front wheel face does not stick out beyond the body, but if the suspension allowed the wheel to travel further up I guess it would touch the fender return flange.
If you are confident in those wheels then you could depressurise a front corner.*
Better to try it on the drive than get stranded somewhere.


*Not convinced your tyres would survive though...
 
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