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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I serviced 2 diesel P38 today and on both the vehicles the clear plastic diesel pipe that goes from the filter to the injector pump was rubbing against the alloy engine oil cooler pipe, one had almost made a hole in the plastic pipe so i wrapped a peice of old pipe round the plastic fuel pipe and secured with cable ties.

Worth checking diesel owners
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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hmmm, thats interesting. on mine the pipe comes from the filter and then goes UP over the oil cooler pipes before bending around 90ish degrees and going into the FIP. Maybe thats why I can see the odd air bubble in my fuel line sometimes, maybe it shouldnt be up and over but instead should be down and under (or rubbing) :/

-Wills
 

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Wills do you see the air in the pipe when the tank is getting low?
Ref clear pipe had to move mine as was rubbing through as well
Tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine starts straight away, cold and hot, but when its real cold i find mine starts better if i let the glow plug light go off for a couple of seconds before turning the engine over then it fires straight away
 

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but when its real cold i find mine starts better if i let the glow plug light go off for a couple of seconds before turning the engine over then it fires straight away



I thought that was what you were supposed to do. :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Realy, i never knew that :oops: , ,,,its getting late i cant be botherd to go there :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Realy, i never knew that :oops: after 35 years of driving deisels, Waiting a bit longer tan normal !
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Realy, i never knew that :oops: after 35 years of driving diesels, Waiting a bit longer than normal !
 

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RR38HANS said:
hmm... How long does it take to start when engine is warm?
Usually it doesnt take long at all, a second or two BUT since ive had the head replaced i am getting extended crank times. I think I read somewhere about it being the bleed off pipe(s) letting air in. I know over the last 2/3 days it been annoying when starting and I dont like having to crank it for as long as I have, probably only around 5 or 6 seconds but that feels like a long time when waiting for it to fire :lol:.

As for the bubble, Ive always had it as I asked about it ages ago and it has never dissapeared. It sometimes gets bigger as well, this is a pic I took of it when I originally asked about it...



As you can see my pipe goes up and over.

-Wills :)
 

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I was asking about the bubble because I had the same problem air in line and bad starting when hot had to crank over a lot longer than normal sorted it by replacing pump/sender unit in tank have had no problems since
Tony
 

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hmmm, interesting, im sure i read it was the leak off pipes letting air in. I assumed that would be the most logical explanation for me as the head had just been replaced and those pipes would have been disturbed. As I said previously ive always had air in my fuel line and it doesnt ever seemed to of caused a problem.

-Wills
 

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Mine developed air bubbles also a few years ago and as a result longer cranking times wen hot. I placed an inline non returnvalve in my fuel line and all problems were gone.
 

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I'm not so sure that air getting into the bleed-return pipes makes any difference to starting, that is unused fuel from the injectors going back to the tank, its air in the high-pressure side (metal-pipes) that causes starting problems.
A leaking return pipe will do just that, leak all over the engine, won't make any difference to starting. If there was any issue as to air-tightness, they certainly would NOT simply be a push-fit, unlike the heavy compression fittings on the injector side.
 

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Filly sucker,
The snag with your comments is they all seem so plausible.
However, go and read the Technical Bulletin on poor hot starting, you will see that replacing these pipes is part of the proposed corrective actions.

Therefore I rather think they can make a difference.
They are a push fit without clamps, and yes they do carry excess fuel back to the input side of the high pressure injection pump.
They don't need clamps as the pressure is not as high as the injection pipes.
They deteriorate with age, and will actually pull apart when you try to remove them. You need to cut off the last bit with a knife, while trying not to score the metal nozzle and create a future leak path.

Cheers
 

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I'm not so sure that air getting into the bleed-return pipes makes any difference to starting, that is unused fuel from the injectors going back to the tank, its air in the high-pressure side (metal-pipes) that causes starting problems.
A leaking return pipe will do just that, leak all over the engine, won't make any difference to starting. If there was any issue as to air-tightness, they certainly would NOT simply be a push-fit, unlike the heavy compression fittings on the injector side.
Your are wrong,perished leak off pipes allow air to be dragged back into the top of the injector pump overnight - causing poor cold starting.Often healthy glow plugs get blamed for this and get changed,and it still wont start.The perished pipes often dont leak much fuel out but are just wet to the touch,this is becuse they are piped into the return - outside of the restricted orifice that maintains transfer pressure inside the pump case.
A smell of diesel under the bonnet is a fairly reliable guide to perished hoses.
 

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Fair-enough-ski !!

Note my opening statement, (I'm not so sure)

Its just that 25 years ago, I used to re-build diesel engines for industry & they would run perfect with no return pipe at all!! Messy, but they ran.

Things obviously change it 25 years. :)
 
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