2016 5 liter SC. Manual says 0-20w, other sources say 5-20w. I live in Southern California and moving to Southern Florida in the next few weeks. Im assuming fully synthetic.
Any brands, weights would be appreciated.
That kit is for a Jag. Not enough oil there.
Unfortunately, none of the Jag or RR dealers in my area would sell the STJLR.51.5122 Castrol by the bottle and it is otherwise unavailable in the US when I checked, so unless I wanted to allow the dealer to change the oil (which I didn't), I had to find an alternative. In the end, the spec is the spec, so I don't see JLR voiding a warranty if STJLR.51.5122 Ravenol or LM is used.castrol pro edge 0w-20E is what you're supposed to use, search the forums as there has been discussion about it. I wouldn't put anything else in the car personally. Will other options be okay? Most likely. I don't take the chance though.
You can get it online easy enough. It is just expensive. I just don't play around with the oil type given all the issues these cars have had. The E variety of the oil has additives (my guess would be detergents to keep the tight tolerances clear) but it is all proprietary info. This has been beaten to death on the forums, for me I prefer safe than sorry and my rig keeps running perfectly whereas others seem to run into trouble.Unfortunately, none of the Jag or RR dealers in my area would sell the STJLR.51.5122 Castrol by the bottle and it is otherwise unavailable in the US when I checked, so unless I wanted to allow the dealer to change the oil (which I didn't), I had to find an alternative. In the end, the spec is the spec, so I don't see JLR voiding a warranty if STJLR.51.5122 Ravenol or LM is used.
My 3.0 takes 8.45 qts. I just buy 2 5 quart jugs. If I drain out the bottom, I pour a little in at the end to run out anything that may settle in the pan before closing it up. So there I use the little extra.Not sure why The jag kit linked but if you search the Lr kit has 8 quarts
I got it on roverparts.com was on sale for 13usd and change.Brad,
Where do you normally source your Castrol? I have had a difficult time finding it on this side of the Atlantic and have been using Ravenol (really great oil that is approved for WSS-M2C925-A). I agree with you and would love to go back to the Castrol.
I'm going to go ahead and disagree it is normal for an engine to sound like that with age. It might be normal in the sense something is jacked up and they're just not keen on fixing it/don't know what it is, but that def isn't something I'd live with.Noise was determined to be “normal operation”. I checked out a few high mileage l405 at two local dealers and 5/7 cars with the high mileage has the knock noise on warm start. Dealer states all is normal. Throughout various jag and land roger forums the noise is classified as a normal characteristic of these engines. I’ve had it for almost 50k miles now I’m going to live with it. Have three years on my warranty left if anything decides to change
After switching to JLR liqu moly the idle noise and ticking quotes down greatly. The knock noise was present when using the dealer oil as well
The E is what you want. Again, there is no way to know what is in it but it was released later after all the timing chain debacles (post 2014) and along with the other timing chain related fixes (guides/tensioners) 15+ engines don't seem to cannibalize themselves. It may be all marketing, but again... it was released as part of a general update to the troubled engines... soooooo on a 150k vehicle I'm not sweating 15 dollar quarts of oil.Where does this compare to the Castrol that is being discussed on here? I'm assuming it's not the same as it's very inexpensive.
That horrid rattling/thudding your car makes isn't okay man, unless the video just makes injector tick sound way worse than it is and you're just hyper sensitive to engine noise. It could also be the supercharger coupler which will make a clunking at idle (described as marbles in the engine/blower), basically all higher mileage eaton blown engines will do this, but that doesn't make it okay... Almost always inside 100,000 miles the coupler will slack up and without the blower under load (just at idle) will cause the joining parts of the blower to clunk around due to the slack. It very much sounds like the engine is internally damaged, I've never met a LR mechanic who knows what's going on inside the blower itself. If it is damaged, they replace it not repair it. It'll go a long time like that but is continuously causing bearing and seal damage to the blower. Eventually the coupler will split and the front end of the blower will be in need of a rebuild or worse the blower will implode. The easiest way to confirm this is your problem is to remove the belt from the blower and by hand try to spin the pulley back and forth. If you feel any play where the pulley seem to take part of a revolution to engage the impellers that is a problem and possibly the source of your noise. It is difficult to tell what the problem is based on your video though, I just know if my engine sounded like that I wouldn't chalk it up as normal. If you're constantly beating on the car, playing with tunes, etc etc... It heat soaks the blower and decreases the longevity of coupler. The replacement requires pulling the snout of the blower off, replacing the coupler and then putting it back together properly... tho when I've had this happen (many times over the years) I remove and rebuild the entire blower while I'm in there because you're basically on borrowed time. Also if you've never changed the oil in your blower that could also be a contributing factor ESPECIALLY if you're running a tune and generally driving your range rover like a maniac. Blower quickly heatsoaks and destroys the viscosity of the oil the coupler is submerged in.it wasn’t only the dealer that said that. On dozens of forums, well over a dozen cars, same issue and same conclusion. Cars with couple thousand miles, cars from factory With barely any miles, cars with over hundred thousand miles
Also were reports of engines being rebuilt, timing chain/guides being replaced the noise still being present.