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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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Discussion Starter #1
2016 5 liter SC. Manual says 0-20w, other sources say 5-20w. I live in Southern California and moving to Southern Florida in the next few weeks. Im assuming fully synthetic.

Any brands, weights would be appreciated.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, Ill go with what the manual says. Watched a video and cant wait to do an oil change without crawling on the floor for the first time in my life.
 

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2019 Velar L560
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I went with Ravenol synthetic from Blauparts. They include a filter and 8 liters of STJLR.51.5122 spec for $110. I'm not saying that Ravenol is better than LM, both meet the new JLR spec which is very hard to find in the US. I've got a few thousand miles on the Ravenol and when I hit 5000, I plan on sending a sample in for analysis.

From the Jag forums, it seems that even in warm climates those guys use 0W20 instead of 5W20. The current 3.0 and 5.0 supercharged Jag engines seem to be solid, but they have had some issues with timing chain tensioner/guide failures which this thinner oil is assumed to address. Beyond that, the new spec has tweaked the additive package to reduce buildup of deposits in the intake tract (nothing magic here, it's the same issue that all direct injection engines face).
 

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castrol pro edge 0w-20E is what you're supposed to use, search the forums as there has been discussion about it. I wouldn't put anything else in the car personally. Will other options be okay? Most likely. I don't take the chance though.
 

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2019 Velar L560
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castrol pro edge 0w-20E is what you're supposed to use, search the forums as there has been discussion about it. I wouldn't put anything else in the car personally. Will other options be okay? Most likely. I don't take the chance though.
Unfortunately, none of the Jag or RR dealers in my area would sell the STJLR.51.5122 Castrol by the bottle and it is otherwise unavailable in the US when I checked, so unless I wanted to allow the dealer to change the oil (which I didn't), I had to find an alternative. In the end, the spec is the spec, so I don't see JLR voiding a warranty if STJLR.51.5122 Ravenol or LM is used.
 

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Unfortunately, none of the Jag or RR dealers in my area would sell the STJLR.51.5122 Castrol by the bottle and it is otherwise unavailable in the US when I checked, so unless I wanted to allow the dealer to change the oil (which I didn't), I had to find an alternative. In the end, the spec is the spec, so I don't see JLR voiding a warranty if STJLR.51.5122 Ravenol or LM is used.
You can get it online easy enough. It is just expensive. I just don't play around with the oil type given all the issues these cars have had. The E variety of the oil has additives (my guess would be detergents to keep the tight tolerances clear) but it is all proprietary info. This has been beaten to death on the forums, for me I prefer safe than sorry and my rig keeps running perfectly whereas others seem to run into trouble.

f10m5, didn't your car develop a strange engine noise recently? Did you figure that out?
 

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Not sure why The jag kit linked but if you search the Lr kit has 8 quarts
My 3.0 takes 8.45 qts. I just buy 2 5 quart jugs. If I drain out the bottom, I pour a little in at the end to run out anything that may settle in the pan before closing it up. So there I use the little extra.
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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Brad,

Where do you normally source your Castrol? I have had a difficult time finding it on this side of the Atlantic and have been using Ravenol (really great oil that is approved for WSS-M2C925-A). I agree with you and would love to go back to the Castrol.

Thanks.

Steve
 

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Noise was determined to be “normal operation”. I checked out a few high mileage l405 at two local dealers and 5/7 cars with the high mileage has the knock noise on warm start. Dealer states all is normal. Throughout various jag and land roger forums the noise is classified as a normal characteristic of these engines. I’ve had it for almost 50k miles now I’m going to live with it. Have three years on my warranty left if anything decides to change

After switching to JLR liqu moly the idle noise and ticking quotes down greatly. The knock noise was present when using the dealer oil as well
 

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2019 Velar L560
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Castrol Edge is perfectly fine oil and I use the DEXOS approved version in my Volt. Unfortunately it does not carry the STJLR.51.5122 designation.
 

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Brad,

Where do you normally source your Castrol? I have had a difficult time finding it on this side of the Atlantic and have been using Ravenol (really great oil that is approved for WSS-M2C925-A). I agree with you and would love to go back to the Castrol.

Thanks.

Steve
I got it on roverparts.com was on sale for 13usd and change.

Noise was determined to be “normal operation”. I checked out a few high mileage l405 at two local dealers and 5/7 cars with the high mileage has the knock noise on warm start. Dealer states all is normal. Throughout various jag and land roger forums the noise is classified as a normal characteristic of these engines. I’ve had it for almost 50k miles now I’m going to live with it. Have three years on my warranty left if anything decides to change

After switching to JLR liqu moly the idle noise and ticking quotes down greatly. The knock noise was present when using the dealer oil as well
I'm going to go ahead and disagree it is normal for an engine to sound like that with age. It might be normal in the sense something is jacked up and they're just not keen on fixing it/don't know what it is, but that def isn't something I'd live with.

The E is what you want. Again, there is no way to know what is in it but it was released later after all the timing chain debacles (post 2014) and along with the other timing chain related fixes (guides/tensioners) 15+ engines don't seem to cannibalize themselves. It may be all marketing, but again... it was released as part of a general update to the troubled engines... soooooo on a 150k vehicle I'm not sweating 15 dollar quarts of oil.
 

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it wasn’t only the dealer that said that. On dozens of forums, well over a dozen cars, same issue and same conclusion. Cars with couple thousand miles, cars from factory With barely any miles, cars with over hundred thousand miles

Also were reports of engines being rebuilt, timing chain/guides being replaced the noise still being present.
 

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it wasn’t only the dealer that said that. On dozens of forums, well over a dozen cars, same issue and same conclusion. Cars with couple thousand miles, cars from factory With barely any miles, cars with over hundred thousand miles

Also were reports of engines being rebuilt, timing chain/guides being replaced the noise still being present.
That horrid rattling/thudding your car makes isn't okay man, unless the video just makes injector tick sound way worse than it is and you're just hyper sensitive to engine noise. It could also be the supercharger coupler which will make a clunking at idle (described as marbles in the engine/blower), basically all higher mileage eaton blown engines will do this, but that doesn't make it okay... Almost always inside 100,000 miles the coupler will slack up and without the blower under load (just at idle) will cause the joining parts of the blower to clunk around due to the slack. It very much sounds like the engine is internally damaged, I've never met a LR mechanic who knows what's going on inside the blower itself. If it is damaged, they replace it not repair it. It'll go a long time like that but is continuously causing bearing and seal damage to the blower. Eventually the coupler will split and the front end of the blower will be in need of a rebuild or worse the blower will implode. The easiest way to confirm this is your problem is to remove the belt from the blower and by hand try to spin the pulley back and forth. If you feel any play where the pulley seem to take part of a revolution to engage the impellers that is a problem and possibly the source of your noise. It is difficult to tell what the problem is based on your video though, I just know if my engine sounded like that I wouldn't chalk it up as normal. If you're constantly beating on the car, playing with tunes, etc etc... It heat soaks the blower and decreases the longevity of coupler. The replacement requires pulling the snout of the blower off, replacing the coupler and then putting it back together properly... tho when I've had this happen (many times over the years) I remove and rebuild the entire blower while I'm in there because you're basically on borrowed time. Also if you've never changed the oil in your blower that could also be a contributing factor ESPECIALLY if you're running a tune and generally driving your range rover like a maniac. Blower quickly heatsoaks and destroys the viscosity of the oil the coupler is submerged in.
 

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I’ve had the supercharger snout issue on another rover. That must be fixed soon, doesn’t make any of the classic noises but it’s a matter of time. I know that noise well.

The warm knocking if you look on these forums and The jaguar forums has been classified as normal. Now is it thwt
Normal? Who knows. People have had it for thousands of miles , me included.

It sure doesn’t sound normal and I agree with you on all aspects that JLR never has a clue what’s actually going on. But at this point in case all I can do is just wait and see if something else happens.
 

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The oil cap on my 2014 supercharged says Castrol 5w 20. Why would Land Rover put that on the cap and "everyone " on forums says something different but you all ignore the JLR engineers? I trust my oil cap not what anonymous "everyones "say on the nets!
 
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