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I am replacing the oil pan gasket, 2001 4.0 SE, the question do I need to use a ssilicon seal with the rubber gasket.
 

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I can't comment on later cars but on mine I apply Loctite 515 or 518 to the gasket.

It never leaks.

In fact a couple of weeks ago I had to reuse the gasket. I used 515 or 518 (I'm not sure which - and it's too cold outside to go and check :) ) and it hasn't leaked a drop.

Don't forget to put thread sealant on the 4 centre sump bolts. There is a TSB on this. The bolt holes go all the way through into the crankcase and will leak oil if not sealed.

Ron
 

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Just had my sump gasket done, the chap used some super duper sealant with it, let it "go off" or "cure" over night the refilled with oil the next morning....bingo, dry as a bone now. Apart from the gearbox oil cooler connection that's leaking, a leak from somewhere on the transfer box and the washer bottle that's split half way up the filler neck, fill the washers up and it leaks out ......marvellous.

One thing he said which I thought funny, when he took off all the nuts/bolts holding the sump on it just fell off, no prying it off or clouting it with a mallet, no it just FELL OFF! :roll: No wonder the **** thing was leaking.

At least it's not leaking now, it was getting bad as well, 2 litres in 1 week, my parking spot (Ior oily spot) looks like an oil tanker has crashed there....well this should keep the environ-MENTAL-ists a bit happier.
 

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If you use a paper gasket, rather than rubber or cork, you should not have any leaks. The sump should just fall off, if I use sealant I only use it on one side of the gasket (Pan side) so it will come off easily.
 

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I have a replacement gasket that I am going to put on my sump pan this weekend. Are there any problems dropping the sump past any of the suspension components? I am going to get oil all over me right? any tricks to making this as painless as possible?

Also when you say thread sealant on the four bolts, what is thread sealant. Is that the actual name at the auto store, or are we talking about some type of locktite?
 

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Malafax_dand said:
I have a replacement gasket that I am going to put on my sump pan this weekend. Are there any problems dropping the sump past any of the suspension components? I am going to get oil all over me right? any tricks to making this as painless as possible?

Also when you say thread sealant on the four bolts, what is thread sealant. Is that the actual name at the auto store, or are we talking about some type of locktite?
You won't get the sump past the diff housing unless the car is lifted up. Extended mode may be enough. Naturally, you'd have to be up there before draining the oil....

I had mine on a hoist so I used the scissor lift to lift the chassis with the wheels down on the hoist ramps.

You won't get oil all over you. Well, not until the sump is off and the reamining oil drips onto you from inside the engine.

Re the thread sealant, I used a Loctite sealant. I'd have to go out and check but I think I used 565 because I had it.

There is a Loctite 561 thread sealant in a stick form but I haven't tried it.

I had my sump off last about 3 weeks ago.

Ron
 

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For those with Thor engines, I came across this Alert:

Sump Bolt Oil Seep on 1999 “Thor” V8 Engines
The two rear most structural sump bolts that thread into the rear main bearing cap may be found to leak on some 99 MY THOR V8 engines. These bolts can be easily identified since they are the pair that are recessed deep into the sump casting at the rear.

Land Rover is working on a permanent resolution of this leak path. Should you encounter a vehicle with oil seepage from one or both of the rear bolts, the following repair should be attempted before removing the sump to replace the gasket.

CAUTION: Perform the bolt head sealing repair only on one bolt at a time.

1. Perform the following repair on each leaking bolt:
· Remove one leaking bolt and clean thoroughly.
· Clean the bearing cap threads and the sump casting of all oil.
CAUTION: Make sure not to get any “RIGHT STUFF” onto the bolt threads.
· Apply a small amount of Permatex/Loctite "THE RIGHT STUFF" to the underside of the bolt head.
· Reinstall the bolt and torque to 22 Nm (16 lbf.ft.).

2. If a second bolt is leaking, go to Step 1 and repeat the process for that bolt.
3. Start the engine and allow it to reach full operating temperature.
4. Check for leaks. An engine oil leak detection dye may be used to help re-check the area for leaks.

The above procedure will only st op oil from coming down the bolts. If the oil is exiting out the back of the bearing cap at the sump joint, the bell housing inspection plate can be removed to help confirm the location of the oil leak, again using dye to assist in locating the leak.
If the sump should need to be removed, refer to the WSM engine section. The correct process to reseal the structural sump is clearly described.

NOTE: Pay particular attention to where the RTV ( THE RIGHT STUFF) must be placed on the block when reattaching the sump with the rubber gasket. You still need to put RTV in specific areas when using the rubber gasket.
A TIB will be issued when final resolution is determined.
 

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I have a oil pan (sump) gasket LVF100400. I offered it up (before dropping the sump) and its different. After reading this thread and the websites of the various suppliers I see that LVF100400 is offered for all V8 P38s (and other models as well).

It obviously needs a bit of trimming (at the rear to remove the triangular pieces) but will it fit an early oil pan (sump)?

Has any one tried it? Obviously I am looking for some feedback before I try. I might err on the safe side and get some sealant tomorrow especially as I am going to treat her to some Mobil 1.
 

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Gavin Short said:
I have a oil pan (sump) gasket LVF100400. I offered it up (before dropping the sump) and its different. After reading this thread and the websites of the various suppliers I see that LVF100400 is offered for all V8 P38s (and other models as well).

It obviously needs a bit of trimming (at the rear to remove the triangular pieces) but will it fit an early oil pan (sump)?
I used the paper/carboard gasket LVH100400 on my '95 RR with the steel sump. I also used Loctite Master sealant.

However, I didn't trim the gasket in any way. To which triangular pieces are you referring?

Ron
 

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Now that is interesting.

I suspect I was charged the LVF100400 gasket price for two paper/card gaskets I bought. :shock:

I'll check that out - no wonder they charged me so much for the gaskets! I thought they were flaming expensive. :(

I wonder what the correct part no. for my gaskets is. The only gasket shown on my parts lists is the LVF100400.

More investigation needed.

Thanks very much for that.

Ron
 

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Yes that would be expensive for a paper/card gasket :shock: . I haven't found any other reference for a oil pan (sump) gasket apart from LVF100400.

I was hoping to call in at the parts department of the RR dealer for some advice or gasket goo but work seems to have taken off and I won't be able to get away early. I just had time to check for any responses here while doing some research on the net.
 

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Interesting indeed...

Per the workshop manual, engines 'up to 99 MY' do not use a gasket for the sump at all, they simply use a specific width bead of Hylosil type 101 or 106 sealant on the face of the sump. The 'from 99 MY' instructions do reference using a gasket. That probably explains why the gasket is listed by AB as for 1999-2002.
 

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Gavin Short said:
Yes that would be expensive for a paper/card gasket :shock: .
That's why I didn't replace it a few weeks back, I just used a bit more Loctite Master Sealant (no leaks)


Gavin Short said:
I haven't found any other reference for a oil pan (sump) gasket apart from LVF100400..
Neither have I - but the one I have is for the later engine with the oil pump in the timing case.

Ron
 

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As indicated above, the Lucas P38 does not use a gasket. I discovered this after purchasing a gasket for "all" P38 models. The early version simply uses a gasket sealant.

As such, I have a brand spanking new oil sump gasket sitting on my workbench for the 99MY on P38. If anybody wants it, let me know. All I ask if that you pay for the shipping.

Paul
 
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