You won't get the sump past the diff housing unless the car is lifted up. Extended mode may be enough. Naturally, you'd have to be up there before draining the oil....Malafax_dand said:I have a replacement gasket that I am going to put on my sump pan this weekend. Are there any problems dropping the sump past any of the suspension components? I am going to get oil all over me right? any tricks to making this as painless as possible?
Also when you say thread sealant on the four bolts, what is thread sealant. Is that the actual name at the auto store, or are we talking about some type of locktite?
A TIB will be issued when final resolution is determined.Sump Bolt Oil Seep on 1999 “Thor” V8 Engines
The two rear most structural sump bolts that thread into the rear main bearing cap may be found to leak on some 99 MY THOR V8 engines. These bolts can be easily identified since they are the pair that are recessed deep into the sump casting at the rear.
Land Rover is working on a permanent resolution of this leak path. Should you encounter a vehicle with oil seepage from one or both of the rear bolts, the following repair should be attempted before removing the sump to replace the gasket.
CAUTION: Perform the bolt head sealing repair only on one bolt at a time.
1. Perform the following repair on each leaking bolt:
· Remove one leaking bolt and clean thoroughly.
· Clean the bearing cap threads and the sump casting of all oil.
CAUTION: Make sure not to get any “RIGHT STUFF” onto the bolt threads.
· Apply a small amount of Permatex/Loctite "THE RIGHT STUFF" to the underside of the bolt head.
· Reinstall the bolt and torque to 22 Nm (16 lbf.ft.).
2. If a second bolt is leaking, go to Step 1 and repeat the process for that bolt.
3. Start the engine and allow it to reach full operating temperature.
4. Check for leaks. An engine oil leak detection dye may be used to help re-check the area for leaks.
The above procedure will only st op oil from coming down the bolts. If the oil is exiting out the back of the bearing cap at the sump joint, the bell housing inspection plate can be removed to help confirm the location of the oil leak, again using dye to assist in locating the leak.
If the sump should need to be removed, refer to the WSM engine section. The correct process to reseal the structural sump is clearly described.
NOTE: Pay particular attention to where the RTV ( THE RIGHT STUFF) must be placed on the block when reattaching the sump with the rubber gasket. You still need to put RTV in specific areas when using the rubber gasket.
I used the paper/carboard gasket LVH100400 on my '95 RR with the steel sump. I also used Loctite Master sealant.Gavin Short said:I have a oil pan (sump) gasket LVF100400. I offered it up (before dropping the sump) and its different. After reading this thread and the websites of the various suppliers I see that LVF100400 is offered for all V8 P38s (and other models as well).
It obviously needs a bit of trimming (at the rear to remove the triangular pieces) but will it fit an early oil pan (sump)?
That's why I didn't replace it a few weeks back, I just used a bit more Loctite Master Sealant (no leaks)Gavin Short said:Yes that would be expensive for a paper/card gasket :shock: .
Neither have I - but the one I have is for the later engine with the oil pump in the timing case.Gavin Short said:I haven't found any other reference for a oil pan (sump) gasket apart from LVF100400..