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Discussion Starter #1
I know there are threads regarding the engine failsafe. I have read through them all but I am still puzzled.

Backstory
Replaced fuel pump in 2016, Radio does not work guessing due to rain water leaking on Bluetooth module in trunk, transmission inactive and air suspension inactive have been showing on the dash for quite some time now, engine coolant seem to go low and need refilling at least once a month, oil leaking around oil filter for the second time and currently at 122720 miles. I stopped driving it until I could get around to repairing it.

Current problem
Back driving it for about a month now. Engine begin to shake and hesitate one day and white smoke coming out of both tail pipes. Had it tested and misfiring on all cylinders but 2 and 3. Spoke with BMW mechanic and suggested change plugs and wires. Changed all 8 spark plugs. Some plugs contained engine oil. Googled and found it could be PCV Valve. Remove part of valve and cleaned. Filled with dried gunks of oil and build up. Put valve back in. Drove and it runs the same. Tested at AutoZOne and codes indicate cylinders still misfiring and to reset Engine Control Module. Reset the ECM, cranked and drove home. Cut Rover off and restarted. Engine is rocking pretty hard and Engine Failsale Program is now on dash along with the usual Trans Failsafe and Air Suspension Inactive. Please help. Keep in mind this is my first Rover, I am a woman, changed the plugs myself with some help unscrewing and I absolutely love these vehicles!!!
 

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Plugs can not contain oil. They can be fouled with oil or the wells can be filled with oil. If they are fouled with oil then either rings or seals are weak. If the wells are filled with oil then you cover gaskets are most likely leaking. Plugs taking a bath in oil leads to misfires.
 

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Likely good that you changed all the plugs and being oil fouled could indicate bad cylinder walls (i.e. scores which provides a path for oil to get into the combustion chamber. What was the condition of the plug electrodes as usually they last longer than one might think if they are double platinum. We changed ours and no difference in running but a coil was breaking down so wonder if you actually changed the coil over plugs (as these engines do not have ignition wires in the usual sense) so maybe just a slip in nomenclature? I have read that the coils can be tested off the engine. Did you get any of the codes P0 301 to 308. If you had clean plugs did they look like they had been steam cleaned as that would likely indicate a coolant leak. Ours uses coolant also and have still not found where it leaks but a dye test in coolant might be a good idea. Its still possible that the pcv system is plugged somewhere and possibly causing too much oil getting into the intake manifold. Keep us posted and let us know the answers to RRtoads questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dont forget I am a woman doing this on my own... Lol...So it turns out the part I cleaned was actually this one...
Oil Seperator Crankcase.jpg

...the PCV Oil seperator it seems. The electrodes were not in good shape. I havent had the coils tested but I can say that the left side seemed like it had been exposed to heat. They are reddish brown in color and seemed burnt on the top, and you can not read the words. There was way more oil and build up in the case with the spark plugs on the left than the right. The spark plugs and coils on the left were also OEM.

The coils on the right side (if standing in front of the vehicle facing the hood) were OEM and clean. Words still legible and it did seem as though it had been cleaned on this particular side. I found it strange but ignored it. I thought that maybe because the left side was near the oil filler cap it may have spilled over onto the coils and burned on at one point. The spark plugs however were after market plugs.

What would cause my Engine Failsafe to activate after a an ECM reset? Should I continue replacing the PCV valve and all 8 coils as planned? I also plan to change the trans neutral safety switch to correct my trans failsafe problem once the engine is again running properly
 

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I forgot to mention, what's your engine oil level and condition like? If it's discoloured and frothy it's contaminated with your coolant. Don't just replace it you need to fix the problem or you'll ruin your engine.
 

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Based on your report you need to do an intake refresh,
replace all the rubber hoses,
the PCV plate ,
the rear water bridge gaskets,
the valley pan,
every seal on the intake manifold,
replace the torx bolts that hold the throttle and the PCV plate on with regular hex headed bolts.
a new short coolat hos to the water bridge this is the common fail point.
With the intake off remove both cam covers and get them powder coated,
refit them with new cam cover gaskets.
Replace the water pump and the coolant bottle and cap,.
get new O rings for the two tubes that run under the intake,
consider making the M60 diesel thermostat swap,
get two gallons of fresh coolant. this should fix you up,
you can get most of the parts at parts geek, make sure you get a new valley pan,
dont be fooled by trying to reseal your old one,
use a razor blade held perpendicular to the surface to clean the valley pan sealing surface, figure about 1200.00 for all the parts,
your labor it should take about 4 days,
the powder coating can take a week or more if you get a slow shop,
so get the covers sent out first
 
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