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I took my car in to my mechanic for an oil change today and to diagnose an oil leak that had drained the sump. He seems to think the leak is coming from the threads and mount that the oil filter screws into. Unfortunately, this is part of the front cover and would require replacing the whole shebang; about 1200 plus labor. Has anyone else had this issue in the past, with oil leaking out around the filter? If so, what was the fix? I'm hesitant to drop 1200 bucks plus on a 13 year old car, so if its something simpler that would be fantastic; otherwise I'm going to have to start exploring alternate transportation options. Thanks.
 

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That would have to be one heck of a leak to drain the sump at the filter. I am abit sceptical as the threads are on the inner portion of the filter. Properly fitted the gasket on the filter would keep this area leak free. However, right next to the filter is the oil cooler pipe from the front of the car. THis could eaily be leaking to where it appears to be coming from the filter. THen there is the main seal, cam sensor, oil pressure sensor and various bolts in that area. I would have the oil changed and keep an eye on the level. My next step would be to clean the front of the engine spotless and see where the leak actually is. It could be something MUCH less expensive.
 

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Yep, Clean. Clean and Clean. Warm oil has a habit of 'walking' away from where it came out.

Also I would clean up the sump as oil often flows onto it and you can also see if it's the drain plug thats at falt.

Must be a big leak though to empty the sump, did the oil light not come on?

Sid.
 

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G;day mate ,to drain your sump out must be a big leak and your not checking your oil and fluid levels weekly :naughty: ???????????????
As menioned before Clean Clean Clean and Look to see where it is coming from. Check your rave to see layout of oil pump.
Oil filter most not likey ,
Gasket maybe,
Bolt threads maybe,
Front seal maybe,
o-rings seals oil coiler hoses maybe,
o-ring seal oil relief valve a definate Look up Search on recent posts OIl relief valve. :thumb: This is the most likely place and all the above symtons will be crossed of as this is where it wil be most likey to be coming from as it is at the higher level and flows down the oil pump across the oil filter and down the oil cooler hose and onto sump and susspention components. 5 cent o-ring and a couple of hours labour and maybe some new radiator hoses and a termastat and quality coolent.
Need to do a system flush, Radiator flushed as thermastat will need to be removed for access to releaf valve circlip and its an easy job, get Radiator cleaned and flow tested while out
Check fluids daily till your satisfied levels are at stable level. Every time the car has cooled down when your cooling system has been replaced :naughty:
Good luck

Anyone contenplating doing a hose Radiator collant change should do this oil relief valve o-ring regardless if you have a oil leak or not , should be part of the sheadueled service while its apart :thumb:
 

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dimitriaudio said:
Oil pressure sensor!!
Mine had the same symptoms
I completely forgot about the pressure switch. Early models had a faulty switch that would eventually allow the oil to run out of the spade connector. There was a recall campaign if I remember correctly. Anyhow, the replacement swtiches are about $30 and of course are the updated unit wit new Oring. It takes about 20 minutes to replace, 30 if your dog is pestering you with a tennis ball. :thumb:
 

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rrtoadhall said:
dimitriaudio said:
Oil pressure sensor!!
Mine had the same symptoms
I completely forgot about the pressure switch. Early models had a faulty switch that would eventually allow the oil to run out of the spade connector. There was a recall campaign if I remember correctly. Anyhow, the replacement swtiches are about $30 and of course are the updated unit wit new Oring. It takes about 20 minutes to replace, 30 if your dog is pestering you with a tennis ball. :thumb:
Your exactly right, I've replaced the oil pressure sensor in just about every gems engine that comes to me. And yes the oil runs straight off the oil filter. I've seen a constant drip from under a car thats runnning.
Regards Russell.
 

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Could you guys give me a part number for the new sensor? And how would i know if it has been changed on my car? Lastly I had a look on rave but i still cant seem to find this sensor. I have a very slight leak and im not sure were its coming from however i suspect the sensor now
 

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JeremyD said:
Could you guys give me a part number for the new sensor? And how would i know if it has been changed on my car? Lastly I had a look on rave but i still cant seem to find this sensor. I have a very slight leak and im not sure were its coming from however i suspect the sensor now
Couldn't find the part number, been awhile since I've done one. By memory I think I remove the alternator to gain access, it's pretty hard to see. Basically just down from the head up the front on the RH side of the block. If you put your car on extended height crawl under with a torch and look straight up from the oil filter.
Regards Russell.
 

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AMR2092 GEMS
NUC100280L Bosch

The connectors are different so have your VIN handy if you have a 99MY
 

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No: H483
Ref: TIB 12/03/97/NAS
TIB 12/04/97/NAS
Issue: 2
Date: 01/30/98


Service Action

Oil Pressure Switch Replacement

AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE:

Defender (LD) RA927939 to VA128421
Discovery (LJ) RA049523 to TA200000
SA500000 to VA557347
TA700000 to WA747771
Range Rover Classic (LH) RA635508 to SA664120
Range Rover (LP) SA300190 to WA379749

Updated information is shown by asterisks.

SITUATION:

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH LEAKAGE

Oil pressure switches on Land Rover vehicles may leak because diaphragm material within the switch does not meet specifications. This can cause oil seepage from the switch cap to the body seal, or from the vent hole around the electrical blade insert.

RESOLUTION:

REPLACE ORIGINAL SPECIFICATION OIL PRESSURE SWITCHES ON AFFECTED VEHICLES

*All vehicles within the above VIN ranges are to be inspected during the next service visit.*

If the oil pressure switch has not been replaced with either a new style pressure switch (light gray insert) or with the PRIDE specified switch (black and red insert), replace the switch with STC4104K.

PARTS INFORMATION:

NOTE: Pressure switch STC4104K is packaged with both a rubber 0-ring (for serpentine belt vehicles) and a copper washer (for V-belt vehicles).

STC4104K Oil pressure switch (Replaces AMR2092 and LRNA4641)


WARRANTY CLAIMS:

* NOTE: Correct Option 2 time will be automatically selected by LRNA warranty computer program based on vehicle upon which procedure has been performed.

CAMPAIGN H483

Option 1 Time 0.10 hrs
Inspect vehicle and determine correct oil pressure switch is installed. Affix campaign sticker.

Option 2 Time 0.55 hrs.
Replace Range Rover oil pressure switch

Option 2 Time 0.45 hrs.
Replace Discovery and Range Rover Classic oil pressure switch

Option 2 Time 0.30 hrs.
Replace Defender oil pressure switch

All vehicles included in above VIN ranges are to be inspected and oil pressure switch replaced if indicated by inspection results.*


REPAIR PROCEDURE:

INSPECTION OF VEHICLE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH







1. Inspect oil pressure switch to determine if original switch has been replaced with correct PRIDE switch (LRNA4641) or H483 Campaign switch (STC4104K).

2. Identify switch LRNA4641 by the following characteristics:

^ Switch has dark plastic housing with red silicon ring-seal next to the hex of the switch body.

^ Switch body hex is 11/16 inches.

^ Male spade electrical connection is riveted to housing and the spade is off-set from center.


3. Identify switch STC4104K which may have been installed from parts stock, by the following characteristics:

^ Switch has white/light gray plastic housing.

^ Hex is 15/16 inches.

^ Male electrical connector comes through the center of the plastic housing.


*4. If switch is identified as LRNA4641 or STC41O4K, complete campaign sticker and affix to front cross member. No further action is required.*


RANGE ROVER OIL PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT

1. Ensure that radio code is available and disconnect negative terminal from battery.

2. Remove upper fan shroud, fan and serpentine belt.

3. Remove serpentine belt tensioner assembly (one bolt).

4. Disconnect ground strap from alternator bracket to damper shock support (one bolt).

5. Disconnect alternator wiring harness.

6. Remove two bolts securing wiring harness shield to alternator bracket.

7. Remove four bolts securing alternator bracket to cylinder head.

8. Remove alternator assembly.

9. Relieve cooling system pressure and loosen hose clamp at water pump for access to oil pressure switch.

10. Disconnect electrical connector from switch terminal and remove oil pressure switch and 0-ring.

11. Obtain new oil pressure switch and ensure that 0-ring is installed.

CAUTION: Do not use any thread sealant on threads of oil pressure switch.

12. Inspect the threads in the front cover, and clean if necessary.

13. Lubricate new 0-ring with engine oil and install oil pressure switch and tighten until 0-ring is compressed.

14. The installed torque of the pressure switch should be 14 to 16 Nm. (10 to 12 lbf. ft.).

15. Apply electrical connector grease ( LRNASGP2) into the female electrical connector and install on switch.

16. Position and tighten hose clamp on water pump.

17. Install alternator assembly and bracket to head with four bolts. Torque to 25 Nm. (18 lbf. ft.).

18. Install and tighten two bolts securing wiring harness shield to alternator bracket.

19. Connect and tighten alternator leads.

20. Connect ground strap from alternator bracket to damper shock mount.

21. Install serpentine belt tensioner assembly. Torque to 39 Nm. (29 lbf. ft.).

22. Install serpentine belt, fan and fan shroud.

23. Connect battery negative terminal.

24. Reset windows/sunroof and code radio.

25. Check engine oil level and replenish as necessary.


DISCOVERY, DEFENDER AND CLASSIC OIL PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT SERPENTINE BELT ENGINE

1. Place vehicle on lift and raise vehicle.

2. Remove electrical connector from oil pressure switch.

3. Remove old oil pressure switch and 0-ring.

CAUTION: Do not use thread sealant on threads of oil pressure switch.

4. Inspect the threads in the front cover, and clean if necessary.

5. Lubricate new 0-ring with engine oil.

6. Install new oil pressure switch and tighten until 0-ring is compressed.

7. Tighten the oil pressure switch to 14 to 16 Nm. (10 to 12 lbf. ft).

8. Apply electrical connector grease into the female electrical connector and install on switch.

9. Lower vehicle and top off engine oil if necessary.


V-BELT ENGINE

1. Locate oil pressure switch on oil pump housing, remove electrical connector, remove and discard oil pressure switch and copper crush washer.

4. Inspect threads in oil pump housing, and clean if necessary.

CAUTION: Do not use thread sealant on threads of oil pressure switch.

5. Install new oil pressure switch with new copper crush washer and torque to 20 to 25 Nm. (15 to 19 lbf. ft.).

6. Apply electrical connector grease into the female electrical connector and install on switch.

7. Top off engine oil if necessary.


CAMPAIGN ADMINISTRATION







1. Apply a completed campaign label (LRN0001LABEL) to the front cross member under the hood to identify that Service Action H483 has been performed.
 

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JeremyD said:
[attachment=0:3m9qw9p8]STC4104.jpg[/attachment:3m9qw9p8]

Is this the sensor?

Yep, thats it.
 

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JeremyD said:
[attachment=0:4nld0bt1]STC4104.jpg[/attachment:4nld0bt1]

Is this the sensor?
That is the early one. Bosch doesn't have the spade connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Awesome, thanks guys. I'm too busy and its too cold out at the moment to really inspect for leaks, but this is a great starting point. Until I have some spare time I'll just keep checking the levels and adding as needed. Thanks again for all the help.
 

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Hi

An other common oil leak in the oil filter area is from the pressure relief valve that is build into the same housing as the oil filter.

There is an o-ring in there around the piston that keeps the spring pressing the pressure relief valve. The whole assembly is kept together with a circlip. Take out the circlip and the piston should pop out if it is stuck tap the area around the piston gently with a plastic hammer the vibration will loosen up the piston and it should pop out. I have posted the measurements of the required replacement o-ring on the forum before.

Regards

Jos
 

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Hey Guys,
I just fixed that oil leak, I thought it was coming out from the oil filter, but as Jos mentioned and others too, it turned to be the oil pressure relief plug-o-ring, I just want to say that it is in a very difficult place to access, what I did, I took the passenger wheel out, and removed the wheel well plastic cover, and then you will see 2 plugs on top of eachother, started the engine, and it was pissing oil like crazy, changed the o-ring, and not even one drop afterwards....hopefuly this will help :D
zee
 

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I had the same problem with the oil leak down the filter on my 1998 Range Rover 4 liter. I replaced the oil pressure switch to no avail. It ended up being the oil pressure relief valve.The only part available for purchase to remedy this problem is the total front cover which is very pricey.It includes a built in oil pump,so at least I'm glad it's new and I can rest now!
 
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