RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I can’t seem to find an oil leak that’s collecting on the drivers side O2 sensor. It’s not a lot, but enough to smoke once it’s burned off. Where would you guess the leak it coming from?

Head or Valve cover?
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
oh wow as you know oil leak sources abound on a vintage rover, one often misdiagnosed and overlooked, the valley pan end seals. I have learned these tend to fail around every 60,000 miles or so, sometimes even a couple of years after replacement not mileage. this due to the expansion and contracting of aluminum during operating temps.
beyond that the usual suspects, valve covers.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,818 Posts
First thing is to clean the engine. No sense trying to find a leak on a dirty engine. A very common source for oil leaks at the rear of Rover V8s is the valley pan gasket. The rear clamping plate likes to work free as the rubber gasket deteriorates. Valve covers can be snugged up to verify if they are leaking. Heads usually do not leak oil.
 

·
Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Valley Pan! Hadn’t even considered that one. Thanks fellas, I’ll start the dig this weekend. Wish me luck ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
My last leak was PS pump & it was blowing back onto O2 and cat..... but as said above, clean it first and it will be easier to locate.
Good luck.
 

·
Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just about finished with the valley pan replacement and power steering pump swap. Neither was terribly hard but did take some time to disassemble.

Ill end end up doing an oil change as well as too much coolant made it way in to the valley. It needed done anyway. With any luck I’ll have fewer leaks and non-turbo sounding power steering pump
 

·
Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok so the turbo sound is back. I thought it was the alternator so I removed the belt. Started the classic and sure enough the noise went away. I replaced the alternator with a freshly rebuilt one, reinstalled the belt and sure enough the same noise. Ok...maybe it the power steering pump? I replaced it with a good used one from a buddy. Nope noise is still there. I take the alternator belt off again just to see if it’s not a fluke bad rebuild, and the noise went away. I decided to swap the new alternator with one that came from a silently operating 93 RRC at my buddies shop...nope same noise.

The noise almost sounds like a stuck lifter that clacks at whatever the RPM is, but is outside of the motor and is nonexistent when the alternator belt is removed. Put the alternator belt back on and the noise returns. Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
222 Posts
Check all the pulleys for something stuck in a groove that could be causing the noise, have a look at the tensioner, too.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
sometimes the turbo sound can be one or a combination of, cooling fins of alternator (totally normal), defective tensioner bearing(s), interference noise or electronic hum (if heard inside with radio at low volume), low power steering fluid level or defective p/s pump.
as for the (clack) it could be a loose belt or again a bad bearing.
 

·
Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
My head is telling me it’s the ps pump again b7t it’s odd that it want making the noise on the donor car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Going back a bit to the oil leak, if the valley pan gasket was pushed upwards it had been subjected to crankcase pressure that shouldn't be there. This would suggest the breathers and associated pipework was impaired and so prevent the pressure from building.

A quick check is with it running and warm, take off the oil filler cap and you should hear a slight increase in tickover rpm as the intake can draw more air from the rocker cover with the top open. It should be operating with a slight vacuum there that the intake system pulls from the crankcase.

Onto the current noise, have you changed the belt in your swapping? Or is it the same one. They are supposed to drive on the flanks of the belt and pully without the belt touching the bottom of the V. If the belt is worn or wrongly profiled (too thin) it tries to drive on the base of the belt incorrectly but increasing revs can "centrifuge " it outwards which will change the pitch/noise of the system. Worth checking to see what you have.

Also, while it's making a noise, try turning all electrical load on to see if it changes pitch as the alt gets loaded upwards, this would give you more of an idea if it's the alt definitely.
 

·
Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
You’ll never believe this because I didn’t. Went to go drive her this morning and noticed the alternator belt was squealing a little, then I smelled the familiar burnt rubber followed by the battery light. Luckily I wasn’t too far from the house and I had a few spares there. The one I choose was a Dayco belt that was thicker and flatter than the cheaper master pro v-belt. It was just closer to me at the time. Got the belt on, adjusted to the proper deflection, started her up and...no clack or turbo sound. Also no idea why, but I’ll take it for now ��
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top