I also have a strap wrench with a METAL cuff that I have used on all my cars but I have yet to do an oil change on the RR. Does anyone know if the metal cuff would be too hard on the plastic housing? I'm always gentle but all the filters I've ever worked on have been metal up to this point.I use a Klein strap wrench - it works great on all my vehicles!
Never had a problem since switching from all kinds of contraptions.
Huh? I'd be concerned too if that was the case... But if you are talking about my video, it says clearly that approximately 8 quarts were vacuumed out by the pump and 8 went back in (the dry sump should hold 8 liters), I even took a shot of 8 empty Mobil 1 bottles to make sure I drove my point across! :lol: And yes, I did check the level before starting the engine to insure it was about right, but I also did say I would let the engine run a few minutes, shut it off, wait the required 15 minutes or so (Land Rover's electronic oil level gauge doesn't let you check oil level until approximately 15-20 minutes have passed since the engine was turned off - we all miss the good old dipstick, but what can you do?) and check the gauge one more time to make sure the level was still within the "OK" range. As far as sludge, no I am not overly concerned with synthetic. I am also willing to bet you that, within a relatively short number of years, Land Rover will eliminate the drain plug entirely. Jaguar already did AFAIK, and they use the same engines.I'm confused and a little bit concerned. You say that the sump holds 8 quarts (which I work out to be 7.5 litres) but you only put 3 back in?