RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 20 of 51 Posts

·
LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
Joined
·
11,013 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For the first time, over the weekend I changed oil and filter on my 2013 LR4 with about 23K miles, using a vacuum pump from the top of the engine. My previous 2 oil changes - I am going for a 7500-mile interval between them - had been performed by an indy shop at 7500, and the 15K-mile "freebie" at the dealer. All I can say is, I'll never crawl under a car to mess around with a drain plug again. It requires a small initial investment in the form of a fluid suction pump, but the vacuum method is way faster and easier on your hands, back, hair, garage floor, etc. Draining from under would be especially challenging for me since I installed a front skid plate on my LR4 as well, and removing that sucker is no fun.

Anyway, I took a video as I was performing the change for another, LR4 specific forum, but since the procedure is identical for the 2010-2013 Sport (and FFRR) with 5-liter NA or SC engines, I thought I'd post it here as well. It's no Scorsese (except my accent :oops:), but hopefully it illustrates how easy, clean and quick the whole process is.

Couple of (obvious) things I forgot to mention in the video:

1. Always do this on a flat and level surface.
2. If your engine is cold, let it run at idle for a good 10 minutes, then shut it off and let it rest for another 10-15 before you begin. The oil should be warm as it will be easier to suction, and should be allowed enough time to drip down into the sump so you can extract as much of it as possible.
3. After you fill the engine with fresh oil, allow 5 minutes before checking its level with the digital gauge in the instrument cluster, you'll get a more accurate reading. Also, since the new filter will absorb and retain a decent quantity of oil after you start the engine, it's always a good idea to check the level one last time after warming it up at idle for a few minutes, letting it cool and settle for another 15 or so, and topping off (if necessary).

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,175 Posts
Nice job Umbertob...this takes the DIY's to a whole new level!:thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
And the Oscar award for best thorough and concise oil change goes to...


Umbertob!!!

*cue Oscar music*

:clap:
 

·
LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
Joined
·
11,013 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The Mityvac is the one I used and it worked very well (I later dispensed the content into a recycling jug and it worked just as well, not a single drop or splash of oil on the garage floor.) In the video I estimated it would take about 10 minutes to extract all 8 quarts of oil from the crankcase, but it really took less than 5, with only a couple of extra "pumps" required at the end - after the initial dozen. The warmer the oil, the faster it will come up, thus the recommendation to bring the engine up to operating temperature before vacuuming it out. Th Astro unit looks nice as well (looks suspiciously similar, it wouldn't surprise me if the same company made both) and the fact you can operate it with a compressor instead of manually sounds pretty cool, but it's not like you are going to get a major workout either way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
Great Video umbertob!! What's next ? Tranny re-build ??!!

:dance:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Does anyone know the correct size wrench that is needed for a 2010 RR supercharged sport. I used a 90mm 15 flute and just about rounded off the lobes of the housing. Finally got it off but I think I need a new housing cap. Anyone know that part number also?
Thanks for your help. Great video, gave me all the confidence I needed to do it myself.
 

·
LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
Joined
·
11,013 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I know an 88.4mm, 15-flute wrench is just a hair too small (I tried it), so if I had to guess I'd say 89mm may be the perfect size. Haven't tried it though - and don't even know.if such a size exists. The 90mm wrench definitely has got a tiny bit of play, but I never felt like I was going to round off the housing because of it. My guess is that yours must have been overtightened, big time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
thank you for posting this. great video. what do you do about the "service required" message that pops up that the dealer resets after the oil change? thanks.
 

·
SUPER MODERATOR
Joined
·
1,964 Posts
I cheat (I reset it with my IIDTool. :lol:)
is there a way to reset it without the tool? interesting choice of oil? are you a fan of mobil or castrol? if so, why not a mobil 1 5w/20 extended performance instead? I have used it in all my vehicles with definite advantages. I have just replaced the break-in oil courtesy of the free first oil change. I know they use castrol edge or are they only the one carrying the castrol slx oil. having used only mobil 1, I want to continue using it unless castrol is better for these engines?
 

·
LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
Joined
·
11,013 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Unfortunately, there is no way to extinguish the Service Interval Indicator without a diagnostic tool on MY2010+ models, AFAIK. If the warning light doesn't bother you (it only stays on for a few seconds at startup) you can ignore it, I guess.

Regarding the oil, Land Rover recommends Castrol Edge Professional 5W-20, formerly known as Castrol SLX. I went to my local Land Rover dealer (Pasadena, CA) and they wouldn't sell it to me over the counter, it wasn't a matter of price. It's just not for sale. I wonder if that's even legal, but that's how it is around here. A local Jaguar dealer would sell it - for $15/quart. Multiplied by 8 quarts, that's an expensive oil change. You can now find this oil sold on eBay for about $9/quart every now and then: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Castrol-Edge-Professional-OE-Full-Synthetic-5W-20-1-Case-6-Quarts-/181331659136?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a38358980&vxp=mtr - hopefully the virtual "monopoly" JLR had on this Castrol product is over and it will be easier for regular Joes like you and me to source in the future, at realistic prices.

I use Mobil 1 5W-20 because it is a good quality synthetic oil and Costco carries it for about $4.50/quart when on sale. If I was going the full interval recommended by JLR (15K miles or 12 months), I'd look into either the above Castrol Edge Professional or at least an extended performance equivalent, such as Castrol Edge w/ Titanium or Mobil 1 Extended Performance. But I change my oil twice as often as Land Rover recommends, every 7500 miles which for me is about every 3 months, so regular Mobil 1 does just fine. If you are concerned about possible warranty issues down the road, you should source Castrol Edge Professional 5W-20, as it is the only oil Land Rover recommends. I am not concerned, so I use Mobil 1.
 

·
SUPER MODERATOR
Joined
·
1,964 Posts

·
LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
Joined
·
11,013 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Looks like they just rebadged Edge with Titanium and called it Edge Extended Performance... Typical. Probably still doesn't meet WSS-M2C925-A specs, which is what Land Rover recommends for their 5-liter engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I know an 88.4mm, 15-flute wrench is just a hair too small (I tried it), so if I had to guess I'd say 89mm may be the perfect size. Haven't tried it though - and don't even know.if such a size exists. The 90mm wrench definitely has got a tiny bit of play, but I never felt like I was going to round off the housing because of it. My guess is that yours must have been overtightened, big time.
Bought an 89mm and it fits perfectly. Thanks for posting a great video.
 

·
LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
Joined
·
11,013 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Cool, thanks for confirming the 89mm 15-flute wrench is a better fit than the 90mm I used. :thumb: Did another oil change over the weekend (37,500 miles already...), it literally took me a whole 10 minutes from beginning to end. It's almost too easy.
 
1 - 20 of 51 Posts
Top