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Whats yer views on the above?

I normally throw in a tin of additive when I do the oil changes.
Being a newbee to the complex BMW Rangie was wondering if adding it would make any difference.

We all know what they are supposed to do ............. the question is............does it help?
 

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Well I don't know what additive you are thinking about, but slick 50 and all its friends are all pretty much a scam. At best they don't really help, and at worst they can cause damage. It is basically just 50 weight motor oil with standard additives plus some teflon and possibly other stuff. The teflon unfortunately tends to stick to non-moving parts such as small passageways... it can actually clog the engine and starve the moving parts of lubricant. I think at one point there was even a lawsuit against slick 50 for false advertising or something.

There are also some additives which claim to clean the engine such as marvel mystery oil, etc.. but these shouldn't be needed unless you have already abused your engine and have sludge built up.

It's your money, but I think you'd be better off if you just changed your oil and oil filter regularly.
 

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My 2003 HSE has just under 140,000 miles now. I got it two and a half years ago, with just over 100,000 miles. I didn't have a very good service history, so I took a risk buying it, but I got it for a very good price. No problems with it except the usual Range-Rover ownership experiences. (New Battery, fuel filter and pump, coolant hoses, front air bags, front brakes, electrical gremlins, dead instrument cluster pixels, terrible interior panel finish, etc...). The main 2 reasons my ownership-experience is not a daily pain in the A** is because of this forum, and also a very skilled and trusted Range Rover mechanic here in Madison, WI. Clint at Mad City Rovers. And a generally glass half-full attitude doesn't hurt.

I had a local shop change my oil a couple of times, but decided to do it myself from now on. I last changed it about 6,000 miles ago. I'm going to change it again soon.

Main reason for changing it myself is because I don't trust what the local quick-change shops do, and also because I'm going to assume that I've got some 'sludge' build-up that I need to remove. So, I want to examine the color and condition of the oil after each change. I kept a sample of the last oil change in a 35mm film canister (remember those?), with date and # miles written on. I'll do the same after each change.

Mobil 1 fully synthetic, 5 quarts from Walmart is about $25. I get filters from Amazon for about $5, free shipping.

I'm going to use Sea Foam to help remove any sludge, just before each oil change. I've done some research, and obviously a room with a thousand people will also have a thousand opinions, but here's what I'm going to do -

1. Assume there's a ton of sludge.
2. Sea Foam will loosen this sludge, and will dissolve and break it down.
3. I will assume that there are some hard sludge pieces that MAY cause damage to the internal engine parts if left in there too long.
4. Therefore, I will add the Sae Foam just before changing the oil, so that I remove any loose sludge pieces before they do any damage.
5. Warm engine, turn off, and add 1.5 fluid ounces (oz) of seafoam to engine oil.
6. Drive for between 30 and 60 miles.
7. Immediately change oil and filter.
8. Keep sample for future reference.
9. Repeat this process every 3,000 miles (maybe less, I haven't decided yet), until the color and condition of the oil is basically 'very good', i.e. until I think most of the sludge has been removed.
10. At which point, it's probably safe to put some Sea Foam into the engine at the same time an oil change is performed.

I haven't fully reserached actual Engine Flush procedures and cost yet, but I'll be using the Sea Foam method described above, in the mean time.

By the way, I REALLY want to flush out my transmission fluid, but I've decided it could do more harm than good. Ton's of opinion and information in other threads about this - Please don't reply to this thread re. Transmission fluid - Tag it onto an existing thread please.

Thoughts / comments?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I don't use oil additives. If you are using a quality synthetic, there is no need for additives.

As for a sludged up motor, I wouldn't take "drastic" measures unless I knew for sure it was sludged. Major sludge requires dissasembly and cleaning. Minor sludge can be dealt with, but avoid engine "flushes".
For minor sludge, drain about a quart of oil out, just prior to your oil change and add 1 quart of Auto Transmission fluid. ATF will give you the lubrication properties (as well as the remainder of the engine oil) but has a higher detergent content than regular oil. Then drive it so its nice and hot and has had time to circulate (10 miles maybe), then do your oil change.
You want to slowly remove sludge, a little at a time, just like it collected there. Getting too aggressive in your removal efforts can dislodge chunks and clog filters and passages, ruining the engine.
 

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In my experience sludge comes from mineral oil that never gets to operating temp, ie. Short trips and long change intervals. I've never seen sludge with synthetic oil, regardless of abuse.

John
 
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