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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my LTZ up in the well for about a year now and took it down. Was concerned a little about the indentations that the rubber stops made in the sidewall. How does this compare to yours? I should have aired them up, but didn't have enough time. (Yet I had time to take pics and post... :roll: )





 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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4,459 Posts
No problems at all...saw the same thing on mine, pumped up the tire and all is good.

Now that you have it out however, might be a good time to remove the hockey pucks...I'm planning on doing that shortly.

Cheerio!
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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easiest way to get them out? i've been too lazy to pop my spare back in there after i switched to LTZs. might as well pull the hockey pucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I was looking at the pucks. With them out, the tire/rim may make contact with some of the less rounded pieces of the "spare tire frame" if you want to call it that. I'm wondering if the pucks actually are better off in there as depending on where it will hit, it may be a sharper piece hitting the tire... :think: I guess it all depends on what hits first though.
 

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Hang on guys.

I thought 'cheerio' used to be my signature ? I remember down under "Opposite Lock" invented an outside swing-way spare tyre carrier that was designed for the LR3 and suitable for any RRS ! Does require removing the rear bumper and re-installing later.

This has solved the resultant damage to the tyre mounted under our chassis for the current edition of Land Rover products and allows the installation of additional extended range fuel tanks or LPG conversions for those of us serious outback adventurers.

Cheerio,


Vinniman
'88 Highline
Perth, W.A.
 

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How did you fit the LTZ under the vehicle - did you just air it down or have to take off any other parts like the heat sheild? BTW - its for a 285/50/20 not sure if you run the same size
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I took the heat shield off mine (although it is to fit a Cooper Zeon LTZ 285/60/18, overall diameter should be nearly identical as your 20s), and I do have to deflate the spare down to about 20-25psi to get enough flex in the rubber for it to go up without forcing the winch too much, or getting it so jammed in there that it might not come down when I do need it... That wouldn't be fun. :shock: Needless to say, my trusty little air compressor is always with me, stored in the spare battery well inside the engine compartment. I never removed those bumpers / hockey puck thingies.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Nah, there is over an inch of clearance between rubber and exhaust canisters (I have an Overfinch exhaust, but I imagine the standard pipes follow the same path) and heat dissipates very quickly, so there should be no problems for the tire. Mine has been sitting under there for years and has never shown any sign of heat stress in those two areas. But if that's a concern I know that at least another forum member here (Boaz) claims he was able to winch up his 285/60/18 spare without removing the heat shield by just deflating the spare tire a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep, heat shield off (4 bolts), then you winch it up deflated - I just held the valve down until no air really comes out. Once you start playing with it, you'll kind of see how the front of the tire (closet to the vehicle front) has to be placed into the correct spot first, then winch it up a little and push the back end of the tire up into position. The winch really doesn't hold it up (at least for a 285/60/18), more that it's just stuck in the space and helps guide it to center. No worries at all about the exhaust heat.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I've done 285-60/18 (both Nittos and LTZs) with heat shield in place and tire aired down to almost nothing. like mentioned above it makes it easier to stuff in place. removed hockey pucks a few months ago & it helps me winch it up a lil higher up in there.
 

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I took of the sheilds and the pucks off from the closer to the front of the vehicle, access to the ones closer the the erar bumper did not have enough access. Aired it down and still could not fit it in, seems to hit the frame \ rail that is right behind the exhaust tube. I will try to air it down more and then and then angle it up before winching it up. Guess if it works, will need to get a air pump too.
 

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So I finally did it yesterday. Fully deflated the tire, took the 4 pucks out, it helped get it up a little higher in the back by the bumper, else would have been about 1-2 inches lower by the bumper. The heat shield was a non issue, tried it both ways, and the fit was the same. Now I need an air pump, any recommendations.

To remove the pucks was a PITA especially the ones closest to the bumper as the space to get the tools was minimal - had to use a flat box wrench, 10mm btw to access that, Try and twist the puck, the wrench will then spin and lodge against the frame, so all you have to do is then turn the puck and the bots is held tight. Also, looks like they used lock-tite to keep it secure.

Below are some pics of what it looks like, pucks are sitting on the ground. Any one want to buy them :)





 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nice work! I'm going to put my shield back in now. I think you confirmed what I was wondering about before - even with the pucks out, the wheel will contact the frame first - I don't think the pucks get you any more space when you fully deflate. You may not get the dents from the pucks but I wonder if it is hitting something that would be sharper now? That would be my only concern.

 

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There is really nothing sharp that will damage the tire, but there is a small screw that could potetially scratch the wheel. For now, I've put a temporary "insulation", 2xpizza box lids, to protect the wheel till I come up with something thing permanent
 

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umbertob said:
........... Needless to say, my trusty little air compressor is always with me, stored in the spare battery well inside the engine compartment.........
Can you recommend an air compressor that would fit there. Do you need to hook that up to the battery or cigarette lighter?
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I have an admittedly cheap MasterFlow MF-1050 Tsunami (AKA MV50, manufactured by Q Industries) tucked away in there, its included carry bag fits just fine in that well and the compressor does a decent job (for the $70 or so it costs it's really hard to beat.) Buy extra 30-amp fuses for it as you may need them if the compressor overheats, and it just might if you have to inflate all four tires after wheeling. Also, the unit will pump air a lot faster if your engine is running, so connect it first and then start the car. Like all decent compressors on the market, it draws way too much amperage for the cigarette lighter receptacle, so it comes with alligator clips to connect it directly to your battery terminals. Currently on sale through Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Industries-MV50-S ... 074&sr=8-3
 

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Discussion Starter #20
umbertob said:
I have an admittedly cheap MasterFlow MF-1050 Tsunami (AKA MV50, manufactured by Q Industries)
This is the one you want. It's made the rounds on numerous off-road forums and pretty much the best buy out there. Been compared to a lot of higher priced compressors too and they look/test identical. :thumb:
 
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