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Discussion Starter #1
Was toying around with my 2011 HSE’s suspension using IIDTOOL BT when I inadvertently changed what the default height setting is. I intended to raise each level an inch or so.

First, when I go to off road height, I get the “suspension needs to cool” warning. I think it does raise though. I waited 24 hours to do it again, and this time, it raised normally to off road, then went to extended mode (no overheating warning)

My question is-If I set the height to my higher than the defaults off road height, does it automatically push it to extended mode?

Related question (I think)- when I turn engine off and lock doors, The front drivers side sags like it’s for access heigh. When engine is turned on, it goes up just fine to normal driving height? Is that typical behavior?
 

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Was toying around with my 2011 HSE’s suspension using IIDTOOL BT when I inadvertently changed what the default height setting is. I intended to raise each level an inch or so.

First, when I go to off road height, I get the “suspension needs to cool” warning. I think it does raise though. I waited 24 hours to do it again, and this time, it raised normally to off road, then went to extended mode (no overheating warning)

My question is-If I set the height to my higher than the defaults off road height, does it automatically push it to extended mode?

Related question (I think)- when I turn engine off and lock doors, The front drivers side sags like it’s for access heigh. When engine is turned on, it goes up just fine to normal driving height? Is that typical behavior?
No. Probably a leaky air strut. Compressor is running all the time. Hence overheat.

This is your fair warning, this is your RR failing gracefully. Please take it in before you have to tow it in.


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Discussion Starter #3
No. Probably a leaky air strut. Compressor is running all the time. Hence overheat.

This is your fair warning, this is your RR failing gracefully. Please take it in before you have to tow it in.


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Thanks ddm2k. Well, as I started to take it in yesterday, it went to bump stops. I was near my driveway, so I have at home still. The mechanic is about a mile away. Can I drive it on bump stops that far?
 

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Thanks ddm2k. Well, as I started to take it in yesterday, it went to bump stops. I was near my driveway, so I have at home still. The mechanic is about a mile away. Can I drive it on bump stops that far?
Waiting to hear from others on this. I would do it with my own if only a mile. I would NEVER drive like that across town.


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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
As a follow up, I took it to my local shop and they diagnosed a faulty "strut line" or something like that. I drove around a bit, and on way home, the old fault was gone, but I got a new one:

C1130-66 (AF) Air spring air supply

The truck was still sagging to the driver's front side as before. So, I took it in, and after 1 tech said he saw "no problem", another guy wrote:

"EAS Value (valve?) block front suspension/air compressor-TSB Updated Air Compressor Calibration will be needed. Recommend taking vehicle to dealer "

I have an IIDTool, and have done the guided calibration before. Is that what they're asking? I've seen on other threads, that Land Rover has a specialized calibration they do?

Comment on another site: There's a very specific LR calibration method for setting the frame-to-ground (or I guess frame-to-suspension/lower height sensor arm) to a pre-set physically-measured value the LR workshop calls for (or using dealer tool "blocks" for the frame) at all four corners - then using the displayed values on testbook as your baseline numbers. I probably botched that and totally over-simplified things, but that's essentially how it should be done.

Again as I said before, just pumping up values till you get your desired result can sometimes mask other issues.

One things for sure though... if the vehicle had otherwise been working perfectly fine with ZERO other changes (no new tires, battery, software updates, heavy loads inside, etc etc etc) I would NOT just manually force override / update the height values and walk away. There has to be some explanation for the change / shift - that's all I was trying to say before. I firmly believe that's why the "fix" didn't stick.


edit: After re-reading your original post again, it really sounds like a complete four-corner calibration needs to be done. Even if it didn't need one before, it does now (unless you wrote down the exact mm values pre-adjustment the first time around). The computer will correct in totally bizarre ways - every action has an equal / opposite reaction type of thing. Plus diagnostically, it's highly unlikely that the opposing side randomly changed height a week later - I'd assume that it had to be due to the manual correction on the opposing side.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll ask again b/c it may not have been clear from post above:

Is there a Land Rover dealer calibration that they perform that is different than the guided calibration the IIDTool provides?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I know i'm talking to myself, at this point, but I just notice that the moment I put the truck in park, the driver's side front (not sure about the back at all) immediately lowers a little bit. When the engine is turned off, it will then lower more (leak or whatever). Is the slight lowering in park normal? Auto access height or something like that?
 

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I know i'm talking to myself, at this point, but I just notice that the moment I put the truck in park, the driver's side front (not sure about the back at all) immediately lowers a little bit. When the engine is turned off, it will then lower more (leak or whatever). Is the slight lowering in park normal? Auto access height or something like that?
No for this generation that is not a “thing”. Hunting for the right height should only be a reaction to extreme load - not a regular, seemingly unprovoked occurrence.

I’d suggest to have the ride height sensors recalibrated. It may be off just enough to create some corrective movement but not so much that it throws an error.

Your exhaust valve is clearly working as it lowers without generating a suspension fault.


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Discussion Starter #11
No for this generation that is not a “thing”. Hunting for the right height should only be a reaction to extreme load - not a regular, seemingly unprovoked occurrence.

I’d suggest to have the ride height sensors recalibrated. It may be off just enough to create some corrective movement but not so much that it throws an error.

Your exhaust valve is clearly working as it lowers without generating a suspension fault.


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thnks.

can i re-calibrate the height sensors using IIDtool? I do receive this fault:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thnks.

can i re-calibrate the height sensors using IIDtool? I do receive this fault:
I accidentally cut this off:
C1130-66 (AF) Air spring air supply - Algorithm based failure - signal has too many transitions/events

is a fault i often receive, but not all the time. I was told it is likely the front valve block, but i'm trying to troubleshoot it before I commit to replacing that, only to have the problem persist. I'm also curious if it could be b/c of my tires:

I have 265 50 20 on them, which is bigger than the recommended 255 50 20. These tires need replacing b/c they're old, but i'm wondering if the size is too big and the fact they are run down could be messing with the sensors.
 

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I accidentally cut this off:
C1130-66 (AF) Air spring air supply - Algorithm based failure - signal has too many transitions/events

is a fault i often receive, but not all the time. I was told it is likely the front valve block, but i'm trying to troubleshoot it before I commit to replacing that, only to have the problem persist. I'm also curious if it could be b/c of my tires:

I have 265 50 20 on them, which is bigger than the recommended 255 50 20. These tires need replacing b/c they're old, but i'm wondering if the size is too big and the fact they are run down could be messing with the sensors.
Tires won’t matter if they’re all the same size. If too big/wide they’d throw a steering angle alert instead of a suspension fault.

You can recalibrate with IIDtool: IID Tool Suspension Height Sensor Calibration

“Too many transitions” commonly crops up when your compressor has to keep adding air to a leaky shock. It may also be accompanied by a compressor overheat fault.

Since this is different, and you’re not experiencing the overheat, I’d follow the links and try to recalibrate.






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Discussion Starter #14
My shop found a leak in the front driver's side strut air bag, which makes some sense. It was a slow leak at first, then it would hardly raise the day before I took it in. As we wait for the part to come in, I see the back driver's side is low as well. Would that be compensating for the front driver's side that has the leak?
 

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My shop found a leak in the front driver's side strut air bag, which makes some sense. It was a slow leak at first, then it would hardly raise the day before I took it in. As we wait for the part to come in, I see the back driver's side is low as well. Would that be compensating for the front driver's side that has the leak?
The system will try to level itself out in the event one shock cannot be inflated. Failed shocks and suspension errors alike can have you down on all 4 bump stops.

Replace the first one and see if this second shock levels out before you invest in replacing the other.


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