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So after work, I started phase 1 of the install. Removing grill and lights are pretty well known. I downloaded the "Bumper Cover Removal" doc from Topix, so I could be familiar with any hidden issues.

The instructions have you remove the wheels, but this is because they want more room to pull the inner fender shield away from the fender. This is not that necessary. Unplug fog lights, sensor wires and tubing.

Removed all screws in forward part of inside wheel well, and removed one plastic rivet. Removed all other mounting screws. Don't need to remove the two screws holding TPMS antenna. Just pull the sides away from fender (with a snap), and then slide bumper off.

The inside plastic needed cutting, and so I had to whip out the dremel. What a mess. The plastic is very soft, and melting fragments went everywhere. The exterior "grill" was similar. For the front, I drilled and used a hack saw blade wrapped in a rag for straight line cutting. Used the dremel for additional trimming.

The rest went fine until I mounted the lights. Had to remove some extra inside plastic to make it all fit. You need to be careful NOT to remove too much inside, because the fascia piece clips onto a piece that gets cut. Too much off, and your fascia will not hold on correctly along the top.

3 hrs so far, but 1 hr was to run to Ace to get a dremel cutting wheel. Reinstall of bumper and wiring is tonight.

DRL_Project_1.jpg DRL_Project_2.jpg DRL_Project_3.jpg DRL_Project_4.jpg DRL_Project_5.jpg DRL_Project_6.jpg DRL_Project_7.jpg
 

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So here's the rest of the story (as once said by Paul Harvey / Yes, I'm that old).

I mentioned previously that the little fascia is held on by 3 clips, and two tension washers. However, a couple of times while getting the LED's in place, I managed to detach the upper portion of the fascia. The clips are not that strong. I decided to add 2 screws along the underside for a bulletproof attachment. Can't be seen unless you are UNDER the bumper looking up.

Next I put in the wiring, then attached the relay to the inside of the bumper. Hung the bumper on the front end and did a test connection to verify all the functionality BEFORE attaching the bumper back in place. All good.

The most tense part of all this is making sure the bumper and fender are not scratched or damaged. I used 3M "easy release' masking tape at the mating points to prevent damage. More importantly, there is a tab which is very fragile that secures the bumper cover to the wheel well. If this breaks off, the bumper cover may flap while driving.

Finally, I put in some connectors for the final assembly. I already had done a project where the headlight LED's will light while the car is active. I just ran the new leads to this source.

Today's work took an hour for wiring and relay mounting, another 1/2 hour for bumper attachment and headlight - grill attachment.

Some day, I may run the wiring to the fuse box and shift box as designed, but for now, I'm done. My little cuts and bruises need to heal first.

I decided to keep the DRL's on for now even when the headlamps are on. It would take just one connection to enable the factory designed OFF mode when HL's are on.

DRL_Project_8.jpg DRL_Project_9.jpg DRL_Project_A.jpg DRL_Project_B.jpg DRL_Project_C.jpg
 

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That is some nice work there. Thanks for posting all the details! It's nice to have the option by going DYI to have the DRL stay on when HL are on.
 

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Okay Awf, seriously you are Stud! I'm totally impressed you had the patience for this. I must say however while I totally like the (stock LR) LEDs and even want them, after seeing what is needed to get them installed I've been "scared straight" (figuratively of course) ;-)

I don't even want the dealer doing that to my car! So bra-vo you Da Man! :thumb:
 

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They look nice, but those LEDs better be made out of the crystallized tears of jesus christ to be worth that much
 

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I agree that the perception of value for these things is hard to justify at first. It took a couple of weeks to consider buying these.

During deliberations, my wife pointed out we recently dropped $740 on a dinner for 4 at a Gordon Ramsey restaurant in London (The Savoy Grill) without blinking an eye, so what's the big deal? Of course, she's the one with a couple of Louis Vuitton purses at $2k a pop. Don't even get me started on her shoes.

WeepingStatue.jpg
 

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Awesome installation work there, looks fantastic and I like the way you wired them along with the headlight LED's better than 'suggested' method.
 

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After seeing this thread and looking at Land Rover's website, I went ahead and got the lights installed on my RRS ATB by a dealer this week. I love the look - they are extremely bright and well-integrated into the design of the vehicle. Mine are wired per the manufacturer instructions and turn on when the car starts and off when either the headlamps or side lamps are on or when the car shuts off. One thing to note is that they don't only light up when the car is in drive as the LR website states. I believe this is consistent with another dealer install that a member of the forum had - maybe both dealers didn't want to go through the hassle of wiring to the drive control. You can leave the headlamp switch in 'auto' and the LEDs will turn on/off automatically when the headlamps are activated in low light conditions.

I shopped around for dealers that would do the install and were experienced; most aren't even aware of the product and they varied in terms of how much they would charge for it. Some wanted $540-$650 just for the labor, but I found one that guaranteed not to charge me for more than 3 hours of labor no matter how long it took them, so I paid $330 (actually less after I applied a dealer coupon that brought it closer to $280) plus $715 for the parts. I'm glad I did that because the install took a lot longer than the two hours that LR has in the instruction manual. Plus, I had a regional LR specialist involved that was aware of the product and knew the RRS inside-out, but had never installed one. Insist on getting a good tech to do this work cause they remove and cut your bumper and do a pretty invasive install using a 'high-level' LR installation manual that the techs referred to as 'hieroglyphics' in terms of level of detail.

At the end of the day, they look great and given how bright the LED lights are, I probably wouldn't want both the LEDs and headlamps on simultaneously. I will post pics another day when the weather is better and I can go outside to take a few.
 

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Here are a few pics of the accent lights. Dealer is Bennett Jaguar Ranger Rover in Allentown, PA

RRS ATB LED Accent 1A.jpg RRS ATB LED Accent 2A.jpg RRS ATB LED Accent 3A.jpg RRS ATB LED Accent 4A.jpg
 

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On the post above, specifically the lower right hand picture, it doesn't look as though they placed this light correctly...? Is the left side like this as well? I could be mistaken, but this doesn't look correct, and if others agree, I'd take this back to the dealer and have them fix/correct it. You paid good money for these and to have them installed and that's what you should get.
 

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I'm not quite sure what you mean - explain why you think they are not installed correctly
 

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I'm not quite sure what you mean - explain why you think they are not installed correctly
He means that the picture seems to indicate that the LEDs are not flush with the plastic bezel which was drilled out to accomodate these - and I agree. I looks like the inner side is pushed in - at least from the picture. I would think it should be flush.

Is it an optical delusion? :razz:
 

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Look at the shape of the light module. They are designed so that they point straight forward in a linear fashion. It would probably have been better to have them staggered forward by each LED.

The way the bumper sweeps back at this point actually points the lights correctly.

LED_Light.jpg
 

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Yes, it is an optical illusion. The lights remain aligned in a straight even plane while the bumper curves and the plastic light cover follows the angle/curve of the bumper. The plastic front is what remains flush with the bezel, not the LEDs themselves.

Now that I look at the pic again I can see why you thought the lights may have been installed incorrectly, but they are fine.
 

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So wait I'm confused. If I have a dealer install these for me. Can they not set them up to stay on at all times? I don't want them to turn off when my headlights are on.
 

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I don't think the dealer will do the install any different than what is in their instructions. There are reasons why they are designed to be on only when in DRIVE, and that they are to be extinguished when the headlamps are on. DOT regulations and the like.

By doing it yourself, you can bypass all that and do what I did to keep them on whenever the car is active.
 
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