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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Hi, thanks for reading my post.
So here is the issue. In the morning I start driving, about 2-3 miles street then I hit the highway. Normally whole traffic goes 80 mph or so. Once I climb over 70mph RR starts to vibrate, feels like asphalt is sloted, has perpendicular grooves in it, feels everywhere, floor, steering wheel, pedals... I thought it could be my winter wheels, they are not worn, just 5-6 yo, rubber looks dried with microcracks so I thought they could be out of round but after I had changed to summer wheels, 1 yo, less then 10k on them, issue remains.
Within last 10k or so:
All new brakes (Genuine rotors, EBC Green Stuff pads)
New front airstruts
New LCA all 4
New Sway Bar Bushings
New outer tie rods.
Front bearings were replaced may be 20k ago.
I talked about it with my SA at LR dealer, he says that tires may be developing flat spots from standing overnight and as I start driving, tires warm up and go back to round - logical to assume, since issue goes away after 10-15-20 min driving. But then I thought, it can't be ussue unique to my truck only. Audi Q5 and TT in the family, dont do that, but they also dont weight 2.8 ton... Anyone else has similar issue? May be it is Continental tires I am using? Transmission/motor mounts? - but then vibration would be permanent and probably less high speed dependant.
I have already ordered but did not install yet front and rear driveshafts but I dont really want to just throw in everything that rotates blindly so would like to ask what do you guys think?
Thanks in advance for your input.
I know you mentioned you have new rotors/pads, but is it possible you may have a brake caliper that is intermittently sticking? I have a high mileage RRS and had that problem recently. The vibration would come and go, but it was only notable at higher speeds - 50+. Initially, I replaced bushings, tie rods, that were showing wear, but with no success in solving the vibration. In my case, the "tell" was greater brake dust accumulation on the wheel with the offending caliper.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #42
Hi Eqz212.
1) yes
2) yes, happens when driving, stepping on brakes has no effect, I mean what slow down below 60 - shaking decreases and eventually becomes un-noticable at around 50mph or so.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #43
Hi wrpercival. Thank you. We have already discussed this possibility and I will surelly give it a good look. Plan was to take a ride and then using IR thermoneter, to check which caliber is hotter. I have EBC Green Stuff pads that barely produce any dust. They do but less then LR ones so for visual determination it could take a while to be noticable but I will surely take a close look. I have 6 piston brembos on front, calipers are stationary. Do you have an advice on how do I check if they're not nctioning properly?
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #44
EQZ212, last major work was dealer replaced transmission under CPO in October 2019. I have to mention that they had left transmission mount unbolted, 3 out of 4 bolts were missing and one 1/4" out. There is separate topic about that called" LR Dealer left transmission unbolted"
I noticed it 2 weeks ago, now, did it leave the shop like that or bolts were there just not torqued and fell out - there is no way of knowing. There was no vibrations immediatelly, when they show-up, I already had winter wheels on and blamed it on them loosing roundness and hoped when I install summer wheels back on - it will go away. It didnt. This situation was resolved by dealerright away upon I informed them but vibration is still there after all new bolts were installed.
 

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2006 Range Rover Sport 2016 Mercedes S550 4MATIC
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123 Posts
This sounds suspicious. I'd dig deeper to see any of the sections they touched, or related could cause the problem. Perhaps talk to the dealer about it again since you already ruled out the problems they initially pointed to.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Hi wrpercival. Thank you. We have already discussed this possibility and I will surelly give it a good look. Plan was to take a ride and then using IR thermoneter, to check which caliber is hotter. I have EBC Green Stuff pads that barely produce any dust. They do but less then LR ones so for visual determination it could take a while to be noticable but I will surely take a close look. I have 6 piston brembos on front, calipers are stationary. Do you have an advice on how do I check if they're not nctioning properly?
Regarding checking caliper function, you might try lightly resting your left foot (maybe even barefoot) on the brake lever to see if you feel any pulsing feedback through your foot. If the rotor is intermittently contacting the pads, it will feedback through the brake lines right to brake lever. If you have ever had warped rotors on your vehicle, a large part of that pulsing sensation you feel when stopping comes from that feedback. I suspect the tiring of warped rotors may have been your incentive to install the Brembos. I've had problems with every brake job on this vehicle. It's heavy, requires a lot of stopping power and generates a lot of heat. I think the front rotors could /should have been engineered larger. I upgraded to slotted and drilled rotors when I changed the calipers. I'm hoping that may help.

Anyway, if the feedback test provides you with some confirmation, it still won't tell you which caliper has the problem. That's where the IR test can help. It seems to me if you have vibration as a result of friction, the offending caliper/rotor should get noticeably hotter if you are not otherwise running the brakes at high speed. You've probably thought through this, but after you've experienced the vibration for a couple of minutes, I'd slow the vehicle as rapidly as you can by downshifting the transmission to minimize the need to brake. If it is a caliper problem, I would think it and/or the rotor will read noticeably hotter than the others if you have not been actively using the brakes.

My RRS has just under 200K on it. Still love the vehicle. I polish and wax the thing twice a year with a buffer, and it still looks like it is close to being a new vehicle. It's a little noisier than when new, but I trust it. It has been one of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned. That said, while I was in the process of trying to figure out my vibration problem, I decided to have my (indie) mechanic largely rebuild it from the floorboards down on items I had not already addressed - new struts, front and rear driveshafts, new drive axles, bearings and cv joints, new parking brake, etc. The only thing I did not do was the rear differential. I committed to the work with the belief it still has another 100K of good use in it. I think everything I did contributed to improving/smoothing out the ride. It is "very" solid again. The new struts significantly improved tracking (night and day improvement), particularly at high speed over rough sections of pavement. No shuddering or feedback through the steering wheel now.

Good luck with the diagnosis. These things can be elusive, but you'll figure it out. In reality, there are only a limited number of things that can be causing it and it sounds like you are systematically working through the list.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #47
Thanks wrpercival. I, actually, love driving barefoot especially long distance. Just want to clarify something - my RRS is equipped with Brembos from factory. 2006-2009 RRS were getting Brembos only in SC version but 2010-2013, I think, all received Brembo Brakes as standard.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Huh... So front left VS right is pretty much equal and avout 125°
Rear though, left is 150° right is 125°
I gues I am going to let everything cool off and take it apart...
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Weekend plan. Not injectors+spark plugs+coils though. I will let someone else do those, will require drive to Brooklyn, NY. When chaging wheels to summer ones I noticed that this bolt was missing in one of the rotors.
But that was after placing the order for diff+transfer maintenance kit with AB. So I just sent them an email asking that there is something else I need. They did not contact me about extra money just threw it in, not sure if charged me for it. So kudos to AB guys.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Weekend plan. Not injectors+spark plugs+coils though. I will let someone else do those, will require drive to Brooklyn, NY. When chaging wheels to summer ones I noticed that this bolt was missing in one of the rotors.
But that was after placing the order for diff+transfer maintenance kit with AB. So I just sent them an email asking that there is something else I need. They did not contact me about extra money just threw it in, not sure if charged me for it. So kudos to AB guys.
Do injector job.
It is a big process
You have to remove supercharger. While you were there you can rebuild your charger.
If your mechanic is handy you just need 3 gaskets 2 for intake one for throttle body. If mechanic smart enough he can take out charger without removing supercharger elbow.
You can also clean throttle body, map and iat sensors.
286167


286168

Today i saw on a bench this
286169
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #51
Thanks Mylife1903. That injector cleaning/test machine you have in one of the pictures, you know all buttons/functions are marked in russian. Mechanic who will be doing the injector job is forman mechanic at JLR dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Ok guys, so no miracles today.
One of the metal incerts for rear left caliper was busted, looks like mechanic who did brake job stepped on it and just shoveled it back. I went to local parts store bought a set of rear pads just to have those plates.
Cleaned and relubricated pins, assembled everything with Liquid Molly antisqueal paste on back of both pads and where guides meet the metal plates. Anyway, test drove the Rengie but vibration is still there and rotor/caliper on rear left is still a lot hotter then right 115° VS 155
I feel defeated :(
 

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Thanks Mylife1903. That injector cleaning/test machine you have in one of the pictures, you know all buttons/functions are marked in russian. Mechanic who will be doing the injector job is forman mechanic at JLR dealer.
Was interesting because there is no code for that injector. If you are going to replace sparks and coils clean injectors too.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Ok guys, so no miracles today.
One of the metal incerts for rear left caliper was busted, looks like mechanic who did brake job stepped on it and just shoveled it back. I went to local parts store bought a set of rear pads just to have those plates.
Cleaned and relubricated pins, assembled everything with Liquid Molly antisqueal paste on back of both pads and where guides meet the metal plates. Anyway, test drove the Rengie but vibration is still there and rotor/caliper on rear left is still a lot hotter then right 115° VS 155
I feel defeated :(
My mechanic mentioned to me that what many people interpret as warping of the brake rotors is actually a slight misalignment of the rotor(s), not warping. With new pads installed, it does not make sense to me that one of the rear calipers would be reading 30+% higher than the other. That may be normal. I don't have any experience in this area, but from a logical perspective, I would not anticipate it happening, particularly on the rear brakes which I think experience more evenly distributed demand when stopping (versus the front brakes).

Going back to the rotor alignment, if the rear left potentially became misaligned due to the missing bolt you mentioned earlier (not sure if it was also on the left) or the damaged insert, could it also be impacting the pads at high speed?

I'm probably reaching here, but testing that hypothesis might be easy if you can switch the rear rotors left to right. That (switching) may be taboo once they have been installed and run. I don't know. But if not, if there is a problem with the left rotor, the heat differential should move with it to the right side if you switch it out.

If your vehicle is currently in the shop on a lift, swapping them should be a pretty quick job.

As a side note, it's pretty disappointing that any mechanic would move forward with a damaged install, particularly on critical running gear like brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Thanks wrpercival.
So show must go on.
As per conversation with frindly LR mechanic and advice from forum members here is the plan for today:
1) Make sure that brake piston movment is not compromised.
Yes> order new caliper
No> take rotor off, inspect parking brake area. Take it from there.
2) Replace fluids in diffs and transfer casr and filter in ACE valve block. Thats going to be interesting as it will show if JLR dealer really replaced them or just took my money and said it did :)
I am suspicious it is latter.
I will take a video and collect oils in separate cans in case I have to confront them with this.
Ha! Last time I had to do the break job, I was in my teens, living in different country. pic of the car attached
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Hi guys. So.... Piston is fine. I was able to push it back then press brake pedal so it would come out again, pushed it back again - no issue there.
Heat problem was to do with parking brake. I guess parking brake shoes were not adjusted and interfering with disc.
Whole area was badly contaminated with dust (everything was cleaned when new discs/pads were replaced) and PB shoes working surface had a wear and a lip and there are bluish spots - if I can upload the video, you will see. I adjusted the shoes and now temperature 150 left VS 140 right after highway+ some streets ride. I could take everything apart and continue adjusting it but given very sad state of brake disc, I'd rather replace it along with new shoes - friction material did not look that good either.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
As far as diffs+transfer case fluid replacement... I just did a rear and the rest of the time I has wrestled with under engine armor plate. Shop guys used pneumatic gun to tight up bolts holding it + some rust... bottom line - after struggling but able to undo all but one, I had to cut last the last one with disc grinder. Went to the store and bought all new bolts - something I should have done a while ago, I guess. Anyway, I will post a pics and let you, guys, be the judge how old this oil is, something for sure - a $150 diffs+transfer case maintenance kit gets you new drain/fill plugs, a several hundred maintenance job by JLR dealer does not get you fill/drain plugs :(
 

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Ok guys, so no miracles today.
One of the metal incerts for rear left caliper was busted, looks like mechanic who did brake job stepped on it and just shoveled it back. I went to local parts store bought a set of rear pads just to have those plates.
Cleaned and relubricated pins, assembled everything with Liquid Molly antisqueal paste on back of both pads and where guides meet the metal plates. Anyway, test drove the Rengie but vibration is still there and rotor/caliper on rear left is still a lot hotter then right 115° VS 155
I feel defeated :(
That sounds like an experience I had: I went through 2 different calipers before I figured it out. When you bleed the brakes, you have to bleed what seems like a ridiculous amount of fluid before The pads will TRULY retract sufficiently to prevent drag.

I went through half a reservoir of fluid per caliper - constantly refilling - before I had the tightness in the brakes that I wanted, and the binding in the rear disappeared.
 

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2006 Range Rover Sport 2016 Mercedes S550 4MATIC
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I'm also thinking about doing fluid changes for the front, rear diff, and transfer box. Do you mind me asking where you acquire the supplies? Thanks.
 
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