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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #21
So far, troubleshooting plans:
1) New oil in both diffs and transfer case.
2) Replace both driveshafts.
Unrelated maintenance:
New filter in ACE valve block.
 

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FOUNDING MEMBER
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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221 Posts
Hi Roman,
You may laugh out loud if your symptoms are caused by the same item as mine were.
Same mystery vibration felt everywhere a resonant vibrating sound and feel.
Same worries.
Cutting a long story short, it turned to my roof racks resonating at about 80 kmh, shaking the whole car.
Easily proved by removing racks and problem going away.
Go figure:oops:
ROLA racks!
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #23
There is an anecdote about it:
Guy comes to a doctor and complaning about this and that...
Doc says: hey, do you smoke?
Man: No
Doc: thats too bad
Man: Why?
Doc: because if you did and quit, it would help you alot.
Bottom line: I do not have roofracks :)
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Thanks for the nice anecdote. Fits well. (y)
Bottom line: Shame about that.
Good luck with your hunt.
Cheers
 

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I am intrigued. The RR LWB CPO I just bought but left at the dealer had a similar sounding vibration. They tried to tell me it was a tire balance issue, but there is no way. I hope you figure it out with the drive shafts so I can make the dealer fix that and I can get my RR.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Does the road surface change at all after your 15-20min of driving? I have a similar issue which only happens on grooved pavement - which I did not realize for a while.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Might be worth checking the brake calipers. A sticking caliper can cause intermittent vibration.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #29
Hi, Strange Grover, it is same Garden State Pkwy. I thought about that, surely it is seems like road surface has groves, slotted but I did not dare to actually stop and inspect the highway surface, may be I should.
On other hand going exactly same way on Audi Q5 and TT does not create similar vibration or any for that matter.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #30
Might be worth checking the brake calipers. A sticking caliper can cause intermittent vibration.
Yes, they could- good point, perhaps I should take ride and take IR thermometer and go over brakes to see if one is hotter as any others, binding in calipers will surely generate some heat. But when that vibration plays out, stepping on the brake slightly does not translate in to increase of it or it being channeled or being more prominent on the brake pedal. Rotors are new, under 5k and genuine LR, pads are EBC green stuff. Front brakes are 6 piston Brembos.
 

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Have you checked the prop shaft? This is a common problem on the Disco/RRS.
There is a bearing half way down the prop shaft. The rubber part of the bearing often fails over time.
LR037028 / PROPELLER SHAFT
There is a good post on this forum: "How to: Replace your rear drive shaft / rear propeller shaft"
I hope that's your problem because it's a cheap & simple fix.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #32
Have you checked the prop shaft? This is a common problem on the Disco/RRS.
There is a bearing half way down the prop shaft. The rubber part of the bearing often fails over time.
LR037028 / PROPELLER SHAFT
There is a good post on this forum: "How to: Replace your rear drive shaft / rear propeller shaft"
I hope that's your problem because it's a cheap & simple fix.
I looked at that bearing/boot and they dont look bad, nothing that can be seen. I did try to shake it to see if it loose or me being 160lbs could not put enough stress on it for issue to appear. As I mentioned earlier - I actually have both driveshafts new. Will try to change them along trying few other things advised here. If they dont cancel quarantine - I will be off next week and have plenty of time to do so. Will document and report any findings if any.
 

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Does the road surface change at all after your 15-20min of driving? I have a similar issue which only happens on grooved pavement - which I did not realize for a while.
I have same issue as OP. Had wheels/tires balanced, but haven't done any other troubleshooting. Only happens at certain speeds between 60-75mph usually. Doesn't always happen on perfectly smooth pavement, but seems to be exaggerated when accelerating uphill on grooved pavement at ~60mph. It still does it when coasting, but not as bad.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Hi, thanks for reading my post.
So here is the issue. In the morning I start driving, about 2-3 miles street then I hit the highway. Normally whole traffic goes 80 mph or so. Once I climb over 70mph RR starts to vibrate, feels like asphalt is sloted, has perpendicular grooves in it, feels everywhere, floor, steering wheel, pedals... I thought it could be my winter wheels, they are not worn, just 5-6 yo, rubber looks dried with microcracks so I thought they could be out of round but after I had changed to summer wheels, 1 yo, less then 10k on them, issue remains.
Within last 10k or so:
All new brakes (Genuine rotors, EBC Green Stuff pads)
New front airstruts
New LCA all 4
New Sway Bar Bushings
New outer tie rods.
Front bearings were replaced may be 20k ago.
I talked about it with my SA at LR dealer, he says that tires may be developing flat spots from standing overnight and as I start driving, tires warm up and go back to round - logical to assume, since issue goes away after 10-15-20 min driving. But then I thought, it can't be ussue unique to my truck only. Audi Q5 and TT in the family, dont do that, but they also dont weight 2.8 ton... Anyone else has similar issue? May be it is Continental tires I am using? Transmission/motor mounts? - but then vibration would be permanent and probably less high speed dependant.
I have already ordered but did not install yet front and rear driveshafts but I dont really want to just throw in everything that rotates blindly so would like to ask what do you guys think?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Hi, thanks for reading my post.
So here is the issue. In the morning I start driving, about 2-3 miles street then I hit the highway. Normally whole traffic goes 80 mph or so. Once I climb over 70mph RR starts to vibrate, feels like asphalt is sloted, has perpendicular grooves in it, feels everywhere, floor, steering wheel, pedals... I thought it could be my winter wheels, they are not worn, just 5-6 yo, rubber looks dried with microcracks so I thought they could be out of round but after I had changed to summer wheels, 1 yo, less then 10k on them, issue remains.
Within last 10k or so:
All new brakes (Genuine rotors, EBC Green Stuff pads)
New front airstruts
New LCA all 4
New Sway Bar Bushings
New outer tie rods.
Front bearings were replaced may be 20k ago.
I talked about it with my SA at LR dealer, he says that tires may be developing flat spots from standing overnight and as I start driving, tires warm up and go back to round - logical to assume, since issue goes away after 10-15-20 min driving. But then I thought, it can't be ussue unique to my truck only. Audi Q5 and TT in the family, dont do that, but they also dont weight 2.8 ton... Anyone else has similar issue? May be it is Continental tires I am using? Transmission/motor mounts? - but then vibration would be permanent and probably less high speed dependant.
I have already ordered but did not install yet front and rear driveshafts but I dont really want to just throw in everything that rotates blindly so would like to ask what do you guys think?
Thanks in advance for your input.
I have had vibration trouble from nylon belted tyres in the past. Goes away when they warm. Cost me heaps in unnecessary repairs but it was the tyres. Pirelli's don't do it but they can aquaplane in tropical rain. Having trouble getting the best tyres for my sport. Mitchies have lost the plot. I threw away a set of almost new Mitchies last year due to wall failures at the tread interface (twice) and poor wet grip. Pirellis have good grip in the wet and work with occasional off road at the farm. But I am still not happy. The old M&S Mitchies on my 1970's Rangie were excellent for all conditions. The latest tyres seem to be aimed at highway designed 4x4's. With all the replaced parts you have an almost new Rangie. Good luck mate.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Hi. Thank you Eric.
I am wearing
275/40ZR-20 CONTINENTAL EXTREMECONTACT DWS 06
Now and had Vederstein (not sure if spelling is right) winter tires that I just took off.
Both sets on its own rims.
Same problem with both sets :(
All parts listed above are about $3,000 plus under $1,500 in shop labor. Done over time, not everything at once. All of them are wearables with various life span. Far from adding up to a new Rover, besides, you're not going to throw a 100 grand on a new Rover every time existing one needs few grand worth of maintenance. I mean it is nice if you could, it is extremely nice being an oligarch and get a new Benz every time ash tray gets full :) but I am just a working bee so for now this one gets fixed/maintained so with money I spend on it, I get to enjoy it to the max.
 

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I had a vibration at certain speeds and if would come and go - no apparent reason - then I just changed my front shocks (entire airbag unit) for Dunlop (UK) ones - old ones had oil leak and had 116K miles on them - my vibration problem seems to have gone away .. and car rides much smoother ........ how many miles on your shocks ?
 

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Here is a technical explanation of what could be going on (typically at speeds above 40 mph)

"What occurs is the worn shock/strut allows the wheel tire combo to literally bounce rapidly causing a ocsillation which induces wheel shake."
 

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2006 Range Rover Sport 2016 Mercedes S550 4MATIC
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What was the last items you changed (such as suspension, struct, etc) before developing this problem?
 

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2006 Range Rover Sport 2016 Mercedes S550 4MATIC
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Does the following make sense:
1) you rule out tires/wheel problem because you have changed wheels
2) it's not the brake: it happens when you are driving, not braking
 
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