Just got finished with my o rings, and find out it wasn't those that were leaking!
The leak is coming from the seam on this cover (item 5) where it meets the body of the heater core.
[attachment=0:a19ykzfc]84908000.gif[/attachment:a19ykzfc]
Mean the heater matrix/core is screwed?
I had a mate bypass it while I was on the road for the wife, so when I got home it was all bone dry and could not see the leak.
Fill it full of water and it about comes out as soon as it goes in!
Is there a fix or gasket? Or is it new heater core time??
Just wanted to know before I put it all back together.
Martin
Job done.
The missus even took it for @20 minute test drive, and entered the stereo code incorrectly @10 times.... :lol:
Quick push of the "BND" button for 4 seconds and the correct code is now entered.
Up to yet everything is perfect. I will be going to St Louis today though (@250 m round trip), so that will be the true test I guess.
Heat is perfectly even both sides, coolant temp is staying right at the half way mark, and up to yet life it good.
I did put some JB Weld on the tubes though to give them some added support, although according to the parts guy this morning, sounds like I just got a bad core.
No more O rings for me, and an all metal heater core... :dance:
Martin
For those interested, performed flawlessly for the 250 miles round trip. I guess it is done and finished with, forever :thumb:
O rings no more for this one rig...
would you mind doing a step by step article on the main site for the slower of us ?
I've got a leaking heater core matrix, actually bypassed. In the Caribbean that's not a problem, but if someday I plan to return to Argentina with my Rangie, that needs to be addressed before the trip.
That would be up to Carl etc to stick it there mate....
I also followed another members shortcut to getting to the heater core on a LHD model, which saved god knows how many hours! :thumb:
I could do a step by step though without issue. The dash is back together now, but I do have part numbers for the connectors and the heater hose I used that is shaped etc.
I think the JB Weld aroubnd the pipes will give it any additional support the new heater core needs.
As I said, for under $75USD I have a brand new heater core and heater hoses, so it works for me :dance:
Martin
Martin, not sure if you said or not, but how did you seal around the heater core? Like, seal the box so that air has to flow through the core and not around it. The original core's plastic end cap seals it and clips to the box.
Long and short, I see a gap...how did you close up the box?
Just some weatherseal for now. I had to leave @1hr after I finished it to go to St Louis and pick the parents up, so had no time to fab a cover up. I will probably trace around the OEM cover and make one up in time with the plasma cutter, but for now its perfectly dry and operating without leaks.... :dance:
Audi heater core going in tomorrow.....Hopefully.
No O rings if it works out as planned (Thanks to my partner in "heater core" crime, Sersan.... :thumb: )
This radiator is for Audi 100/A6 until 97 (not the stationwagon). I don´t have a part number because is from a national company so I think will be different from yours.. If you go to a part shop try to see the catalogue, they uses to have pictures.
Great idea with the Audi heater core. One question, is it possible to use shorter "adapter" (5/8 to 3/4)hoses and connect it to the RR aluminum tubes? That way you wouldn't have to modify it quite as extensively? Excellent idea, otherwise!!
The OEM tubes are heavily flanged, where the O rings seat.... Not worth the effort to keep them IMHO, but it could be done. There really isn't anything I would call a major modification myself. Hell, keep the Aluminum pipes on the shelf and polish them if you like. All the rubber hose is doing is going from the heater core to the engine bay. The fewer joints the better for that job. :thumb:
ZERO issues on guiney pig nunber one so far. No leaks, good heat, and peace of mind....
Great job Sersan! That makes two of us mate :thumb:
Martin
Would it be practical or cost effective to say have a specific Silicone Hose moulded with a reduction at the Heater End that way would only have a couple of joints on each hose.
Only a thought but I expect the cost of having a hose made would be quite high.
I would imagine silicone is not only expensive fo rthe return, but really a bit of overkill. However custom hoses for tranny and sterring components are quite resonable. Taking the existing pipes and under hose pieces in to have a couple of units made up is a great idea. A custom pipes with correct sized hoses crimped on each end would result in two fittings each for a total of four clamps. Two at the core, one at the intake and tower. You could even take it a step further and have the thermo to "Y" to overflow to core made up as a custom pipe/hose setup with three clamps needed.
Obviously less connectors are better, but I doubt I would put "that" much thought into it myself
I have 1 connector on each hose under the dash, then 1 on the hose under the hood (the other goes straight to the T from the header tank). Considering I have no plastic or O rings, that is good enough for me :thumb:
You would need to have the hose made to go from 5/8" at the core, to 3/4" on one connector, and @7/8" on the other, plus getting the shape/measurements correct. Just not worth it to me.....
So far, zero issues with my guiney pig setup and I am happy I did it, with the parts suggestion from Sersan :dance:
Hi,
Yes but first I have to do another mod.. change the Gearbox radiator to the center, meanwhile I will install a electric fan system in place of the viscous one..
looks like 2 rigs running around with no o rings now then huh? :thumb:
Next mod on my rig is rebuilding the motor that is at the machine shop, then swapping them out, so nothing major :dance:
Martin
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