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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Because my NRVs are all worn I need the advice of any member who can help. Please refer to the attached picture - should there be a a short straight section between the tapered nose and the O ring groove (as indicated by the question mark). Or should the taper go right up to the groove?
Because I do not have a new/good condition item to compare mine with I do not know what is correct.

I want to have these made as exact copies of the factory originals so I will know that they will work first time and I don´t want any mistakes - setting up tooling is expensive.

Thanks for any advice
Rowan
 

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In all honesty, I don't believe it matters, the pointed end is just there to guide the valve to seat properly.. as long as the O-ring sits properly and can seal without moving then it will be fine..
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Would it make more sense to send me a P.M. and just let me send you some at no charge?
 

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I pretty much rebuilt my entire EAS system (Bags, O-Rings, Valve Block Rebuild) to no avail. On a last ditch effort, I pulled out my valve block, examined the NRVs, and then switched them around. It has been over a year and the EAS works perfectly. However, I know it is just a matter of time before these things get warped again.

Needless to say, I would pay $30.00 for some replacement NRVs and I support your efforts.

I will say that, from what I could tell, it was the shape of the cone at the end that mattered. All of my O-Rings were properly seated. One of my NRVs was just a bit more warped at the tip than the others.

I cannot offer you an answer to your question. Please take this post as moral support for your project. I am cheering you on.


Thanks,
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have been able to borrow an almost new valve block and my car is still dancing and/or dropping. So today I connected my Faultmate and got some ride height readings. This is what I got:-

LF RF LR RR

High 157 148 135 127

Standard 130 122 113 108

Low 113 106 100 95

Access 81 75 75 73

Is it safe to say that these readings are not right and that I need to do a recalibration. I have read that the numbers for each side should be about the same for each setting. Maybe this has contributed to my problem not going away with the borrowed valve block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry about the bad layout but I could not get the faultmate readings to translate from windows.
 

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I guess you know this already, but the numbers don't mean much.

To be confident of the heights you have to fit the height blocks, lower the car onto them, read and record the values in Faultmate then enter these values into the system after removing the blocks.

The car should then go to the same position it was when the blocks were in place, unless there's something awry with the height sensors.

I think this is correct - someone say if not.

I'd like to do this procedure too.
 

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Hello...new member here.... I own a 98 RR p38 and have successfully rebuilt the valve block in 2008 with no issues. about a month or so ago I started to noticed the front droppin in a few hours....and pulled the block and ck'd everything .... it was all good but still dropping. Found out it was the front bags and I replaced them ...but I still have the same issues with the front dropping....I know it is the NRV's ...but new ones are hard to find......any ideas would be most welcome....
 

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I have never seen new NRV's for sale. They are just not available.

There are 3 in total. As mentioned you can try swapping them over to stop a leak. This is probably your best bet.

Some people have cleaned them up by spinning them in a lathe or pillar drill and carefully applying an abrasive block to the surface face. It is risky. If you mess it up, you can't buy a new one.
 

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I have been able to borrow an almost new valve block and my car is still dancing and/or dropping. So today I connected my Faultmate and got some ride height readings. This is what I got:-

LF RF LR RR

High 157 148 135 127

Standard 130 122 113 108

Low 113 106 100 95

Access 81 75 75 73

Is it safe to say that these readings are not right and that I need to do a recalibration. I have read that the numbers for each side should be about the same for each setting. Maybe this has contributed to my problem not going away with the borrowed valve block.
Are those the stored target values or actual height readings?
 
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