Not sure which one it is but its right under the alternator and the bearing gets noise at idle and seems to go away when i give it gas, when spraying belt dressing it goes away briefly but comes back. It sounds like its coming from the alternator, but its not, its other pulley bearing right under it, not sure which one it is, so someone can tell me or show me with a pic as well as tell me which one is the most common on that goes bad
Not 100% sure myself - but trough several months - Belt tensioners have become available at almost any car part dealer - I have a noisy "thing out there" in the same area - so I'm waiting for a belt tensioner from P38spares.co.uk to arrive any day now - he shipped my parts of tuesday... so I can almost feel the spanners in my hands..... wrum wrum...
Not sure which one it is but its right under the alternator and the bearing gets noise at idle and seems to go away when i give it gas, when spraying belt dressing it goes away briefly but comes back. It sounds like its coming from the alternator, but its not, its other pulley bearing right under it, not sure which one it is, so someone can tell me or show me with a pic as well as tell me which one is the most common on that goes bad
Yep it will be the idler pully tensioner, I replaced heaps of these. You can mess around and replace the bearing or just replace the whole unit. Their pretty cheap, I think it's worth buying the whole unit that way you have a new tensioner as well :thumb: Regards Russell
Right next to the tensioner pulley is a fixed guide pulley. My noisy pulley happened to be the fixed guide pulley and not the tensioner. The guide pulley is cheaper than the tensioner, so if you're not sure which one it is, you might start with the cheaper one. I thought it was my alternator, too. My mechanic's stethoscope fooled me. The sound really travels through the metal. I only found out it wasn't the alternator after I went through the trouble of changing the bearings only to find the noise persisted.
70mm is the original pulley size. The technical info in the attachment suggests changing to the 80 mm and also changing the belt to suit the larger pulley. It cured my problem but it could also be the tensioner pulley shown in your pic which has a bad bearing or damage to the pulley grooves themselves. Changing the 70 mm idler pulley would be the cheaper option and once the belt is off it is very easy to remove the tensoner (only one bolt holds it on ) to check that as well.
70mm is the original pulley size. The technical info in the attachment suggests changing to the 80 mm and also changing the belt to suit the larger pulley. It cured my problem but it could also be the tensioner pulley shown in your pic which has a bad bearing or damage to the pulley grooves themselves. Changing the 70 mm idler pulley would be the cheaper option and once the belt is off it is very easy to remove the tensoner (only one bolt holds it on ) to check that as well.
Earlier models do not have the idler PQR101060 - the change over is 1999 with the Thor engine - but the tensioner is for all models. (the early model tensioner part No ERR3562 has been superceded with ERR6439).
remove the serpentine belt, hold each pulley wheel in your fingers and try to "wobble" it on its axis. There should be no play at all. Shot bearings will be readily apparent. You can buy replacement pulley wheels. I am a fan of composites...but in this case I went for the (heavier) metal pulley wheel with a new bearings...not a squeak/rattle /knocking sound since... 8) ...
I am getting ready to replace the pulleys as discussed in this thread. Are there any tricks that I should be aware of? I did not find a step by step process on line, if someone knows of one, could they please post a link? Thank you....
I did both on my GEMS (only one idler pulley) with the fan still attached, don't know if yours is GEMS or Bosch though.
The tensioner could be reached from above, the idler was reachable from below.
Hello fellow P38 enthusiasts, my car is acting up once again.
Yesterday i parked it at a shop, came back 10 minutes later and the car doesn't start anymore. Engine is immobilised and key fob doesn't lock or unlock.
I tried synching the key via the door handle method and also i left the key in...
I just acquired a low mile 22k 99 green on lightstone p38. It’s great but the front driver’s side and passenger side scuff plate by the door sill are cracked and the license plate light trim is also cracked. The rear E pillar has a slight scuff also. Any chance anyone has any of these parts in...
Hi all! I am completely locked out of my Rover. The battery is not dead. The key fobs haven't worked for some time and I just enter with the key each morning locking an unlocking manually. I sent my kid down to open the door last week and she tried and tried so I believe the car went on super...
So here's the story, have just had all the rocker arms, timing chain, cam followers, camshaft machined, all to get rid of the damned ticking that has plagued my poor rover for months. But now the ticking is back and worse than before the work was done. I don't know what the issue could be, and...
If you’re like me and had your valve block in and out a few times chasing leaks, this might help.
A mountain bike shock pump on an emergency inflation schrader valve with a bit of 6mm air pipe.
With the valve block in the car I was able to identify the leaking solenoid. When I replaced the...
We’re a community forum to discuss and assist on issues with every Range Rover model. Sign up if you have a question, answer or to meet like minded individuals
ccr2002 · updated 
