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...Wife completely does not understand why I need another car just for parts. I'll tell her you agree with me. These RR classics are rare here so parts are hard to find...
I have two '95 RRCs, a SWB and a LWB, the LWB had a solid powertrain, but cosmetic issues, so I bought her for the powertrain, in case my new-to-me used 3.9 didn't work out. It has, so I've just sold my LWB, but I know there are many folks who have multiple parts trucks. RRCs are so cheap now, it makes sense, especially since parts are hard to find. The challenge is finding a parts truck that has enough good parts to justify the purchase. My LWB is worth more in parts than as a runner, which is a shame. Hopefully, the new owner will keep her running...

Having just removed the engine from a '94, there is no crank position sensor. There is on a P38 as it doesn't have a distributor, but not on a Classic.
Gilbert is right, stock RRCs don't have a CPS.
 

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no cps. explains why i dont remember the rovers cps setup. And listen. I put 300k on my z71. Just got my "new" p38 well enough to start running on trips so I can dial it in better. I felt a little bad moving out of the z71. And probably prematurely. But I am keeping it for the kids to drive. Big and safe. And putting a 1999 rover on the road? Not sure much we do about rovers is gonna make sense to anyone who doesnt own a rover. Especially wives. Its ok. My wife's ML was the donor for my current tires. She didn't like the noise of them. So I took them. I mean i got her some road tires... didnt leave it on blocks. Should have though. put it on stands for her to find in the am. What!? she can take the XJR. But that things a whole nother forum.
 

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You are not going to get any fault codes as they are related to the ecu and it only runs the fuel system. The ignition system is mechanical (i.e. works off a distributor) but pointless (uses a transistor (the ignition module) and a reluctor to get a signal). Rather than willy nilly replacing parts, print off the sections out of the RAVE manual and methodically work your way through the tests. All you need is a multi meter and some patience. No spark should be easy to find, eventually you will get to a point where the system works and your problem is somewhere near there. The worst problems are ones that are intermittent, but you don't have that difficulty.
 

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You are not going to get any fault codes as they are related to the ecu and it only runs the fuel system. The ignition system is mechanical (i.e. works off a distributor) but pointless (uses a transistor (the ignition module) and a reluctor to get a signal). Rather than willy nilly replacing parts, print off the sections out of the RAVE manual and methodically work your way through the tests. All you need is a multi meter and some patience. No spark should be easy to find, eventually you will get to a point where the system works and your problem is somewhere near there. The worst problems are ones that are intermittent, but you don't have that difficulty.
Johnno is right, the 14CUX is fuel system only, so no fault codes is a good sign. However, it might be helpful if you post your test results starting with Test 1 and follow the decision flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks gentlemen! Tests 1-4 check out OK. When I got to checking voltage with ignition OFF from battery positive to coil negative terminal, I am getting 12V reading. Manual says should be zero and only change once cranking engine indicating amplifier is switching the LT circuit. Removed amplifier and checked ohms across pick up terminals, it is not reading 2000-5000 ohms as indicated in the book. Even if the book says this, I am still not convinced its the amplifier. This will be the 2nd new amplifier module. The first new one made the truck start but it got solo hot, so I suspected s ground or reversed wire somewhere. It was the next morning this while no spark started. I have checked my coil wires as described earlier. Would someone mind taking a picture of the coil wiring so I can see if I'm crossing anything that heated my first amplifier and may be contributing my second amplifier to not open the circuit? White wire from harness goes to coil positive, black wire from condenser/resistor goes to coil positive, white wire from amplifier module goes to coil positive, and white wire with black strip goes to coil negative, white wire with black PVC type cover that shares the wiring path with MAT sensor harness goes to coil negative. Is this how your looks like? I would take pictures, but I just removed my entire ignition amplifier and relocation kit to send back to Atlantic British parts.
 

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There is something wrong with the 12V reading in the test - this has come up before and I'm pretty sure the value is wrong. Do you have a high resistance or a low resistance? I had a short in the wiring to the module which presented as a high resistance. The short was in a new Lucas branded relocation kit i.e. a manufacturing defect.
 

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RIMG1105.jpg

Picture of set up - I don't know if you can see the electricians tape near the red, white and blue wires - this is where the short was.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks johnno! Can you walk me through how to do a high or low resistance test? Thanks for the picture!
 

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Test 4 - if you test the pick up connections you should get 2000-5000 ohms, These are two of the three wires that run to the distributor, I can't remember which two - but they are the wires covered by electricians tape and part of the kit. I think one of the three wires doesn't do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thank you all for all the help! After weeks of messing with the RRC it came down to the wires at the coil being reversed. Most of what I replaced needed to be replaced but the final not starting was just the coil wires being switched. Instructions from Atlantic Pacific parts were wrong. I'll take a picture soon to help others.
 

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Just reading through some older threads to build up some of my knowledge and thought I'd add to this one.
As a quick and dirty check for coil and ht verification couldn't you use the classic hotwire route of volt supply from battery + straight to the coil to make sure of a supply? and also like the old points setup the points are just interrupting the earth/ground wire from the coil - so if you use a short piece of wire earthed to the chassis, the you should be able to manually fire off a spark by touching this onto and off the coil earth terminal (disconnect the normal running loom first) you may need to get a spare pair of hands to hold the HT lead so a spark can be checked. At least you can check the coil and delivery to the dis cap like this and help separate down the original big problem of no sparks and it'll cost you nowt.
 

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This is an old thread and helpful. Just wanted to contribute my finding with a no spark issue. 1991 RRC shut off while driving. Tried coil and Ignition AMP, tested ignition switch then started running through all test procedures for fuel and spark methodically. in the original manuals there is a test number 6 that has you take the cap off and put the HT wire from the coil above the rotor to see if there is spark. If there IS spark then the rotor is grounding to the distributor and not letting spark get to the plugs. Bingo, i had spark on the brand new "OEM" rotor i bought off Rimmer Bros. It wasn't stamped Lucas however. I put the old one back in (this one had maybe 300 miles on it) and it fired right up. I can't imagine what would cause a rotor to go bad, but there you are. It was bad.




Hi everyone. I have read all I think I can in the forums but can't seem to solve my problem. I have a 92 RRC, 3.9. It initially would die and idle poorly at stop lights. So replaced idle control valve. Still not a perfect idle, so cleaned MAF, still idle issue, so replaced MAF. At this point it would start up fine but run a little rough at idle. While running the ignition module got unbearably hot, so turn car off. Next morning wouldn't start. So assumed it was the ICM, ordered a new one with a remote relocation kit, from Altantic Pacific Rover. Still no start. Then started to check for spark. No spark at the spark plug wire to manifold test. No spark at coil wire to manifold test. Replaced coil. Still no spark. Checked my main relay and fuel relay for power, there's power. Don't know how to check relay switches so replaced them with new ones. Checked all fuses under passenger and drivers seat. I am getting power to coil, actually on both the negative and positive side (not sure this is normal, is it?) Parts I decided to replace so far are distributed, ICM, Coil, MAF, and Relays, not specifically for this no spark issue but over the last few weeks. I am getting fuel to intake but haven't tested pressure yet. No sure that would result in a no spark issue. I'm in this abusive relationship as a fellow RRC owner posted. This is our group therapy for loving what punuishes us for loving it. Any thoughts.. What am I missing?
 

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Although I have not suffered this issue myself I have seen the rotor grounding out be a common issue for brand new or nearly brand new rotors. Possibly a bad batch is snaking through the market.

Fitting new parts to a classic does nowadays carry it's own risk. At times refurbishing or buying good used original parts on Ebay can be a better option than new. Good thing you kept the old rotor makes for easy trouble shooting.
 

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I going with.... yes old thread....
When my Rover has been running good and all of a sudden stops starting...
I just go to auto zone and get a new cap and rotor..,,and have had pretty good luck with this..., by no means am I saying go to auto zone...go anywhere
...but this just eliminates the spark problem ...I usually get a year or more out of these
Good move on keeping the rotor
I do the same
 
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