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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
I've been dealing with a battery drain issue and so I replaced the battery thinking maybe it was just old (battery would die if the car sat for longer than a day or two unless connected to a trickle charger). I still had the same problem after replacing the battery so I knew something else was causing a drain. I was gearing up to track that down but had a bunch of stuff come up. In the meantime, my son disconnected the trickle charger because he needed the extension cord so the battery was completely dead when I next went to start it. Now, even with the battery charged, there is no power in the car at all.

I disconnected the ground and just let the battery get a full charge thinking maybe the charger couldn't keep up with the drain - anyway, when I connected it back up there is still zero power to the car. Any ideas where to start? Is there some sort of master fuse that's blown?

I'm going to check the cables tonight, but they were working just fine, even after I changed the battery, so I don't think it's a bad connection there.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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1,413 Posts
clean and secure your terminals, check power and ground cables from battery thru their respective routing. you do not mention if the truck in question is the one on your signature but if so there are a number of "main" fuses next to the battery, check all.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yep, it's the 95 Classic.
 

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Do is there no power to anything or just won’t turn over
 

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Batteries don't like to be fully discharged. Old batteries die when you discharge them fully. One or more cells die and you cannot charge them anymore.

I suggest you find a fresh, charged battery connect up and see if she starts, or at least lights etc work. Then with a multi meter trace back the drain consumption (assuming this is what started all these issues). I expect you need to pull fuses to isolate the circuit. Likely somebody has had the same issue so if you can find out which circuit you probably narrow down the likely offending part.

Also check if your alternator is charging (voltage on battery running should be 14.7V), maybe you are just draining down the battery..
 

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Check to see if the volts are going anywhere at all.

The main cable from battery + down to starter solenoid should always be live irrespective of any systems, fuses etc. Meter from starter terminal across to earth to see if you've got voltage there first.

If you have, then you know it's available into the vehicle at least for some functions.

As above posts, check if it's got fusible links to see if you've then got a failure there to the vehicle control systems.

If that's OK, then go to back of ignition switch to see if you've voltage going in first, then if it's coming out again with a live switched feed toward the rest of control circuits.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Battery is brand new and fully charged. I have power to the starter, but no lights, horn, nothing. Like I said, it was running just fine then the trickle charger got unplugged and now nothing. I've never encountered something like this before.

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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99 Posts
I would check the fusible links. I don’t know if they changed in 95, but I would go there on my 92 if I had these symptoms.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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1,482 Posts
I would check the fusible links. I don’t know if they changed in 95, but I would go there on my 92 if I had these symptoms.
95 had maxi fuses. Many folks will convert the older fuse link to the 95’s maxi for better reliability. Check the maxi fuses.


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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I got a new battery in and have begun testing.

When I put a meter on it, it briefly reads .4 (amps I assume) and then tapers all the way down to .03 where it stays.

I have now disconnected the negative lead and run a 12v light between them. I checked the maxi fuses first and found that when I remove the 100a fuse for the alternator, the light dims significantly but does not totally go out. So I left the fuse in and tried removing the lead for the alternator, but nothing changes (light is still bright). So I'm confused as to what part of the alternator circuit is causing a problem?

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #13
I've now gone through and removed each fuse under the steering wheel one at a time but the light never went out. Wondering what I can check next.

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Did you check the 4 maxi fuses in the underbonnet fuse box pull them out 1 at a time ,use a multimeter on ohms scale & see if get a reading test lights can do funny things . Ifound onmy 99 some of the fuses are not as it says in the handbook as well. My drain turned out to be the door amps still had power onthem though I changed to a Pioneer basic radio CD . .To test drain connect meter on amps scale & in seires with main power lead & batery + & pull fuses 1 at a time . The ECUs memory will be around .30-.04.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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99 p38 and 95 classic totally different animals, not much in common other than name, country of origin and manufacturer.
 
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