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Discussion Starter #1
So far its had some panel love to tidy the out side up, had some damage to the drivers door and gaurd after the door restrainer roll pin broke and the door opened to far.



Its cool how all the exterior panels unbolt!!!!!

Loaded em up and dropped round to a mate the next day for lunch, who spent all of about 3mins hammering them straight again!!!!!



Gave em a quick respray the next day







I also resprayed the bottom's of the doors as they had some odd oxidisation under the paint??

 

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As you can imagine, there have been some interesting learning curve's so far.

:arrow: If you want parts and awesome service, go to http://www.LandRoverSpares.co.nz !!

:arrow: Don't waste your time looking for parts at Repco, BNT, Supercheap etc, if its not listed on their computer, they can't be bothered.

:arrow: Had to buy a new set of spanners, my metric set doesn't fit.

:arrow: Everyone love's to tell you how **** Land Rovers are. When asked if that is from personal experience, the answer is always the same :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Fix one major week point.

The Lucas Dizzy is apparently almost impossible to make water resistant. From my experience, an unsealed dizzy, the slightest splash and its all over, forget about washing the engine the garden hose!!

Replaced the Lucas electronic dizzy with a Chev HEI.

Fatter sparkage, better water resistance and its RED :lol:

Very straight forward modification.

HEI is modified to recieve cut down Rover dizzy base, drive gear and oil pump drive.

Lifting eye removed from alternator mounting bracket.

Top radiator hose extended.

Minor rewiring if desired for better reliability, I fitted a relay and a fuse-able link to feed the HEI.

End result is:








So does it go better????

Yes, but not because its getting a bigger spark, I would say its more to do with the change in dynamic timing. 6 degrees at idle and running on the chev advance curve up to I think its 34 degrees in total.
 

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The Range Rover needs some recovery points incase I want to take it off the tarseal one day, and I suppose a winch wouldn't go amiss, just for pose factor though :mrgreen:

I picked this up off Tardme for $60, thought it was the hell score, bolts to the chassis and sits under the bumper, no mod's needed!!!! Reckon its the perfect thing to mount a couple of tow hooks from :mrgreen:



Finally got some time to play with it this morning, so first up was a quick coat of insta-bling as I figured it would probably only get bolted up once, and I would have a working winch in an hour or so............



Oooooooh how wrong I was...............





Ya see the problem??
I',m guessing its for a Disco or a P38 Rangie. Bolt holes are similar but don't line up, and the chassis brackets are to fit some other model with wider rails. Grrrrrrr :lol:

Was too early in the day for a beer, so had to settle for a coffee, put the winch where I wanted it, put the bumber mounts back on and sat down and tried to make some kinda plan out the 7 or 8 options I came up with....



Obviously I wasn't going to have the winch in and working by lunch time, so thought I might as well go with plan "C" (C=Cut the shizz outta everything ), there's also a big element of plan B in there as well (B = Booty fab some shizz outa the scrap box that might do the job )

So it started with me butchering the nice Superwinch cradle to make a pair of brackets that attached to the chassis:



Then cut the cradle down to fit the brackets:



Then jammed the two bits together on the truck and tacked em together:



Off the truck and a quick blaze up with the Mig and it was a cradle again...

Thought I might as well jam a couple of tow hooks onto it seeing as that was the whole point of the exercise in the first place :lol:



A qiuck test fit, should do the trick I guess :D



There was also another problem with the cradle, it was designed for a Superwinch winch, and for some reason it seems that the gearbox and motor on the that winch would have been the other way round to all other winch's, including the entire range of Superwinch's currently available :roll:

So wadda ya do?? Cut some ****, grind some **** and weld some **** :lol:

I moved the fairlead slot along, welded in a plate to cover the old part of the slot that wasn't going to be used and also cut a notch so the free spool leaver could be opperated...



At the end of play today, I have the cradle finished, complete with two recovery points, winch, fairlead and attached to the front of the R.R. Its pretty sweet apart from the fairlead which is on the piss :lol:





So hopefully After work during the week I can get the alloy bumper back over the top of the cradle. I'm picking theres not going to be much left of it in the middle. Then strip it all off the truck, paint it, wire the winch in then test it :lol:

The bumper that I gotta get back on over the winch:



Fun fun fun :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Crap, I was cut and pasting all the above post's from another forum I normally use, and realised that what was supposed to be in the first post wasn't there, and there is no option to edit that post?????

So here is what was supposed to be in the top post, at the top of this thread:

I finally got sick of my 80 Series Toyota Landcruiser.

To big, to heavy and they seem to have become :roll: "kool" :roll: everyone's got one these days :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I like the demensions of the Toyota Surf's/four runners and Nissan Terrano's/Pathfinders, but hate the fact they are IFS, and much like the 80 Series, everybody's got one.

I have always liked the fact that up to a certain point in time, Land Rover's focus, when producing a vehicle, was on how well it went off road. Road manners and comfort came second to off road perfomance.

Defenders look good with the right modifications but are very basic. Extremely over priced in New Zealand aswell.

The "Classic" Range Rover on the other hand, was the pioneer of coil sprung suspension for off road use and as such is based on a platform designed for off road use. Some effort is put into creature comfort in the cab, but is still fairly basic.

Anyway's, flew from Hamilton to Invercargille a couple of months ago and drove this back:





Sex on wheels or what!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
CSK said:
Looks good!

Also good for parts is http://www.landroverparts.co.nz


Where in NZ are you?
Hi, thought you would be first to post `) `)

I'm just down the road in Hamilton.

Do you have any interest in getting out your R.R and doing some light four wheeling??

I get out and about a fair bit usually with a couple of others from up your way, so will keep you updated if you like :thumb: :thumb:
 

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DieselBoy said:
Hi, thought you would be first to post `) `)

I'm just down the road in Hamilton.

Do you have any interest in getting out your R.R and doing some light four wheeling??

I get out and about a fair bit usually with a couple of others from up your way, so will keep you updated if you like :thumb: :thumb:

Haha, my Vogue is strictly Remurera/ Ponsonby cafe crusier spec!

My brother has a '95 Nissan Safari 2.8L which does see a fair bit of off-road abuse and just brought a '85 Toyota Surf 2.4L which will also be getting used offroad/ beach!!

Is the white Classic your first Land Rover?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
..........and the finished result :D :D






I'm pretty happy with it as its improved the approach angle in front of the wheels, and hasn't reduced it in the middle, so just gotta suss some rope out and its all go :D

Need Idea's on how others have mounted their rear recovery point on R.R's, the curved and angled chassis rails make things tricky :shock: :shock:
 

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very nice, can you post a picture of your steering guard, it is similar to the Defender one, I think I prefer these to the plates that other use.
 

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You mean something like this??



Its a good idea :thumb:

Catch is, our 4x4 club rules specifiy that we have to have a rated tow hook front and rear, like the hooks I fitted to the front bar earlier in the thread. t

I could make a plate that bolts to the tow bar that would accept a hook with out much drama :dance:

The trouble with that, is that the tow bar gives the R.R the WORST departure angle ever!!!

I was planning on removing the tow bar before undertaking a 4wd trip, then putting it back on afterwards.

I want the hook to be mounted separately to the tow bar and not compromise the departure angle :thumb: :thumb:
 

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Agree the factory towbar is a disaster for departure angles. If you want to tow as well then what about fabricating one of those square receivers in place of the factory towbar. Then have an attachment with a tow hook attachment and a towbar attachment
 

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Here's the one I was thinking of







Pic shows a Disco but fits a Classic too. Cost is around NZ$400+gst. Rated to 3.5ton

Couple of people in the Ak LR owners club use them so they comply with club rules
 
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