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Hi my wife bought the truck while i was deployed. when i got home i seriously underestimated the truck and now i love it. Its a 97 he with the 4.0 i do take it off road and it keeps up with more than it should. but today i took it up this big hill it was dry dirt and i krept up it but when i got to the top the truck was overheating so i shut it down let it cool and added water. i drove it onto base and the bottom end let go and started knocking so i towed it home and now im looking for info. is it common for these trucks to get hot when going up steap hills? Im in the U.S. anyone have any sugestions on where to locate the bottom end parts for the truck at a decent price or sugestions on affordable upgrades for the engine i wouldnt mind going to the 4.6 but i still am new to the truck and dont know the drawbacks. Thanks for the info and i got to admit these trucks are in a leage of their own if you ask me.
 

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Great trucks. Best advice I can give you is to drive to a dealership after you call them personally and let them know you're coming in.

Ask to speak to the shop foreman, who usually is the most experienced one with the p38s. I personally would pay the $100 fee for him to go over the truck from sunroof to tire tread with you underneath it by his side. that's probably the most important part. Explain to him that you're a first time owner and need a good education about the common issues. We can give you plenty of advice here on the forum, and always will but a one-on-one introduction to the truck's systems is a must.

The shop foreman should be able to give you a list of things that fall into one of 3 categories:
-Immediate repair (before breakdown/more expensive repair)
-Short term (next month or so)
-Repairs recommended but not necessary at the moment

The most important thing I can tell you is to study the truck. Get to know and understand the systems, air suspension first, heating/cooling system second, braking third (fully hydraulic), engine management fourth. There tend to be issues in all four systems in that order. Air suspension much easier to handle than heating/cooling in my opinion. at least I dont have to remove my dashboard to change an airspring... :dance:

The forum is great, and helpful with instructions on repairs. what you really need is a true baseline examination of your first p38. If anyone here in the forum is in Washington state, help our fellow newbie out and give his truck a full workover.

If not, make friends with the shop foreman. I personally like to shake hands with the man that may be doing work on my truck in the future. They're good people to know, and being a veteran, I'm sure he'll be happy to help you out and not take you to the cleaners.

If you need anything else, feel free to PM me.
 

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You are right about them being in a league of their own. Our family has had many luxury cars and suvs, but there is something about the p38 that sets it apart.

Did you notice any coolant leaks? I would also like to point out, these engines are hyper-sensitive to heat. All it takes is to overheat once a little to much, and you will need a new engine. They have cylinder sleeves (only thing I won't forgive land rover for on this vehicle) which are what make them very sensitive to heat. As previously suggested, you will want to get to know the vehicle from inside and out. You can download the service manual on greenoval which has a wealth of data on the construction and design of the vehicle. This website also contains a lot of information and DIY tutorials on RRs as well. To answer your question, no it is not normal for it to overheat going up a hill. What do you mean the bottom end let go?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info i didnt know the engine was sleeved. When i say the bottom end let go i mean that it started knocking really bad like i lost the bearings in the lower end it wasnt a vavle train knock and i have rebuilt several engines before but never on a RR. I will take it into the RR dealer and have the shop forman look at it if it only cost 100 after i doo the rebuild on it i hope i can save the block but we will see. thier are some other little problems with it i have the book light on in the heater control area the cruize control doesnt work i have an airbag fault and the truck will kill the battery if its left sitting for a couple days and i have read up on all these issues but it would be nice for someone who is specialized in the truck to "show me around" so thanks for the advice. im looking for a full kit engine rebuild kit do you know what site i can order it for it seems that finding parts for the p38 can be alittle hard thanks again.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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You'll find that there are a few people on here that know infinitely more than any LR mechanic about these rigs.

Rebuilding this engine should be a breeze for you. It's just a Buick pushrod aluminum V8 after all.

Thank you for your service. :thumb:
 

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kmagnuss said:
You'll find that there are a few people on here that know infinitely more than any LR mechanic about these rigs.

Rebuilding this engine should be a breeze for you. It's just a Buick pushrod aluminum V8 after all.

Thank you for your service. :thumb:
buick engine from the 60s, right?
 

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Where in Washington are you? Fill out your profile when you get a chance so we can help you out better.

If you are on the West side don't even bother with the dealers, especially Bellevue. The "shop foreman" has been there forever and knows his stuff. He knows how to stuff thier walets. :roll: Their misdiagnosis stories are pages long and very expensive.

Lower end parts for a rebuild are cheapest through Atlantic British except for rings. I'll have to hunt up where mine came from as I haven't has my coffee yet. :) If you are leary of doing the rebuild yourself I would highly suggest Biggs Eastside Auto on BelRed road. The brothers are ex LR shop folks that started their own shop. If you are closer to Vancouver/Portland your absolute best choice would be PDX Rovers. THey are absolutely TOP notch and simply the best in the area.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im in the tacoma area i checked shucks and autozone and all they could get me was a used engine from a salvage yard... 3500... :shock: they dont have a master rebuild kit and they didnt know much about it. So im trying to find one online ill locate one of those shops and see what they say most the stuff i find isnt in U.s. dollar so im not sure how easy it would be to order it.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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There was a company selling NEW cast short blocks for $2500...I can't remember where though. It may have been on ebay, but it was a really reputable company who specializes in LR engines.
 

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I agree with toadhall, check out Atlantic British on this site and stay away from the Stealership, they typically charge four times the price for the same dam parts, and you'll get all the help you need from this site to redo your truck from bumper to bumper. Do you have a Rave CD, if not I'll burn you one and send it to you N/C.
 

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big-t said:
Do you have a Rave CD.
You can google and download it. I followed RAVE for my bottom rebuild save for disconnecting AC and power sterring. Those I just strapped aside and pulled the engine only leaving the tranny in place.
 

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I dont have a rave cd. is that like the chiltens manual for the RR i tried to find a chiltons manual but shucks doesnt seem to care about these cars. im going to stop buy this shop today and see if they are able to help if so ill post the name and location
 

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TT.

I think Rovertech resides out VanC way as well ? Get your ride checked out first so you have an idea of what needs to be done !

If the engine is in a poor state of health, there are other sources overseas or Stateside that could facilitate a better outcome.

Cheerio,


Vinniman
'88 Highline
Perth, W.A.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Go to a dealership???????? :naughty:
Wow.
I just grabbed a 140k mile 4.6 to rebuild for $500 from ebay. Mine has over 193k miles on it now, so I got a motor to fully rebuild so as to not be down to one rig.
I would say look around on ebay for an immediate fix. Just be sure the motor you get is a good running one with no overheating issues.
Hell, for the $3500 the parts place told you for a motor, you could get a whole P38!! :lol:

Martin
 

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vinniman : yea, Rover Tech is in North Van, Don is awesome with these things. http://www.rovertech.ca

Definitely a trip from Washington state though, especially in a vehicle that overheats.

-Eric
 

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G'Day Rhino.

Yeah my Land Rover mechanic is also "Rovertech" in Perth, Western Australia who are the gods on all things Range Rover too !

He has numerous P38 vintage 4.6 ltr Alloy V8 blocks sitting under the work benches with porous blocks ready for the smelter ?

Cheerio,


Vinniman
'88 Highline
Perth, W.A.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I called rover tech and they are able to get the bearings for it at a decent price. Thank you for the help now all i got to do is pull it apart.
 
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