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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Hi!

Just purchased my 93 Range Rover 3.9 liter today, and wanted to introduce her and myself. I'm coming from the 'Jeep' world, and this is my first Range Rover.

Found the truck on Craigslist a week ago, and went to see, and buy her this morning. The seller had to jump the truck to get her started (battery was toast), but once running she made the 20+ mile trip without incident. I purchased a new Optima yellow top today, and now she fires right up. Some initial observations/questions from my first few hours:

- Truck starts and turns over, but stalls out. It takes one to two starts before she stays running, but then runs like a champ. Motor is very quiet, has 164k, and it's share of oil leaks. Need a new oil pan gasket for sure.
- Truck drove home without any warning lights appearing on the dash. Once the new battery was installed, I now have a check engine light on. I've done a bit of research and found out I can diagnosis this myself under the right front seat. Stay tuned..
- ABS light comes on when starting her up, but goes off once you start moving.
- The hood won't stay down, I had to drive it home with just the safety latch keeping the hood in place. Was worried the entire ride that the hood would fly up and smash the windshield. :shock: Need to fix this ASAP! Looks mechanical, maybe the cable, or latch needs to be freed up?
- Blower for heat doesn't work, but was told by seller that there is heat and it shouldn't be a heater core issue. From what I've read this could be sensor or a bad blower?
- Truck has springs, not bags for suspension. Seller said short wheelbase came with Springs?? Not sure if that's entirely accurate.
- I've heard there's a really good Rover Mechanic near Old Saybrook CT. Anyone have the name? I'd like to have someone with Rover knowledge go through the truck.
- Windows all work, Power seats work, not sure if heat works on seats. Needs a new headliner, and sunroof liner.
- Frame, Body and Interior in great shape for 20yr old vehicle.
- I found a CD Changer in the trunk! No idea if it works, and I couldn't get it to lock back into its home. Regardless, still a wicked cool bonus find!

Finally, do any of you veterans want to share any advice on things I should be looking for as a new owner? Thanks in advance!

-Steve

IMG_1392.jpg IMG_1394.jpg IMG_1395.jpg IMG_1397.jpg
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

I work at a shop in saybrook. Not too sure about anybody here that is a Rover shop. I have been recommended to and have recommended people to a place in Guilford. Hollands. He is a Rover genius from what I hear. http://www.hollandsgarage.com/ That all he does.
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Also as a FYI. My previous Rover Classic was a 93 SWB and it started life as a air suspension truck but was converted to coil springs.

If it did start that way for you there will be this switch panel next to the climate control center. That's the easiest way to tell.


Also most likely the air storage tank will probably be still in place. Bolted to the frame directly under the driver seat.
You are better off with the coil springs any way. Less problems to deal with.

And lastly I really hate to scare you but the blower slowly weakend and finally died on my 93 and that's the reason I got rid of it. Even for a somewhat confident mechanic like myself, Its a nightmare to change. I read only about half of these instructions and decided to bail on the idea. They are listed for heater core but all the same steps are required for blower motor.

http://www.roverparts.com/Instruction Photos/Instructions-HeaterBMK-8844.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Thanks goddesshunter! Well, it appears my 93 has always had coils. As for the blower motor, it is what is. I'll test the switch and the relay first, and if the blower needs to be replaced I'll take on the challenge with that awesome guide you provided. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

I've downloaded the RAVE CD PDF, but looks quite difficult to navigate without some sort of index. Does anyone know if the 92 Haynes manual would be worth getting to work on a 93? Not sure of the model differences between the 92 and 93.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

If it starts but won't idle, it might be the IAC valve stuck shut or slow to open. if it's sticky you might find it idles at about 1500 when you come to a stop - this is the most common symptom. It could also be the fuel pump or the vacuum valve on the fuel rail - but you wouldn't expect it to start at all if the pump was playing up. Otherwise you probably need to work right through the system e.g. clean the hotwire system, check the timing, vacuum advance, mechanical advance, ignition module output, throttle position sensor.

I'd think the hood problem could be cured with WD40.

Also for information only - looks like your ignition module is still on the distributor and it is prone to fail through heat. If it becomes a problem there is information on relocating it on this website.
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Page 2 at the bottom. Estimated time: 9-10 hours.(And that's I assume for a fluent Rover mechanic)

I commend you if you are brave enough to dive in. You are a better man than I. LOL

As far as the manual, It should be able to give you most of the info you need for being a year off. Here is a link of everything that is different for the 1993 model from the 1992 model.

http://www.rangerovers.net/modelspecs/1993.html
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

If it starts but won't idle, it might be the IAC valve stuck shut or slow to open. if it's sticky you might find it idles at about 1500 when you come to a stop - this is the most common symptom. It could also be the fuel pump or the vacuum valve on the fuel rail - but you wouldn't expect it to start at all if the pump was playing up. Otherwise you probably need to work right through the system e.g. clean the hotwire system, check the timing, vacuum advance, mechanical advance, ignition module output, throttle position sensor.

Thanks Johnno42! The check engine light is actually product of code 17. I've done a little research and it appears to be a TPS sensor. I'm still finding my way around under the hood, and work has been keeping me from my new toy. This weekend I plan to start working out these kinks.

I'd think the hood problem could be cured with WD40.

I agree - It appears that the latch just isn't moving back into place. I followed the cable through the engine compartment, and it appears to be in a rusty sleeve/tube. I'll start there.

Also for information only - looks like your ignition module is still on the distributor and it is prone to fail through heat. If it becomes a problem there is information on relocating it on this website.
okay - Thanks for the heads up
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Page 2 at the bottom. Estimated time: 9-10 hours.(And that's I assume for a fluent Rover mechanic)

I commend you if you are brave enough to dive in. You are a better man than I. LOL

As far as the manual, It should be able to give you most of the info you need for being a year off. Here is a link of everything that is different for the 1993 model from the 1992 model.

http://www.rangerovers.net/modelspecs/1993.html
Thanks for another great link! Yes, I saw the 9-10 hrs! The Rover isn't my daily driver, and I actually don't mind tearing the interior/dash out of vehicles. I'm actually better at it, than mechanic/engine work. Although I wish it were the other way around. :(
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Blower could be a bad resistor, new ones available or build your own. Other than that could be a bad switch. Finally it could be a stuck motor or a blown motor. Try the switch, then the relay, then you can pull the top of the dash off (not hard) and get your hand in to push the motor. It may just have leaves blocking it if your lucky. Try oiling the bearing if you can get to them. Failing that, just get a new heater unit with blower in there and swap them. I need to do this and whilst its a long job, you can still drive the car whilst in the middle of having the dash apart, mostly! There are instructions on forums around the net. A guy called Mikieman on here and other forums has done it so try a search for him and see his posts. Good luck, take some photos and post them up for me!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Blower could be a bad resistor, new ones available or build your own. Other than that could be a bad switch. Finally it could be a stuck motor or a blown motor. Try the switch, then the relay, then you can pull the top of the dash off (not hard) and get your hand in to push the motor. It may just have leaves blocking it if your lucky. Try oiling the bearing if you can get to them. Failing that, just get a new heater unit with blower in there and swap them. I need to do this and whilst its a long job, you can still drive the car whilst in the middle of having the dash apart, mostly! There are instructions on forums around the net. A guy called Mikieman on here and other forums has done it so try a search for him and see his posts. Good luck, take some photos and post them up for me!

Thanks! I will follow your advice in that order!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Me being the 'Dummy' :roll: that I am, pulled the parking brake the other night. Now it's stuck. Did some more reading and it sounds like for the short term I should be able to just bang, or pry it free until I have proper time to fix/adjust. Can someone point me to the location that I need to pry/bang free?

Also, thanks to everyone that's kindly replied thus far. Yesterday I was considering moving on from this project before I even got started, thinking I was in over my head. The more I research and post, the more I want to stick with it. The Rover is definitely more involved than my 92 Wrangler, but also way Classier too! :shhh:
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Is it the lever or the brake that is stuck? You don't need to pull the lever on that hard. The handbrake is a drum brake on the drive shaft behind the transfer box - I've never adjusted mine so not sure where the adjustment is but it will be in RAVE. My brake sometimes sticks on an uphill, moving forward tends to free it.
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Is it the lever or the brake that is stuck? You don't need to pull the lever on that hard. The handbrake is a drum brake on the drive shaft behind the transfer box - I've never adjusted mine so not sure where the adjustment is but it will be in RAVE. My brake sometimes sticks on an uphill, moving forward tends to free it.
After pulling the lever up, it will no longer go all the way back down. I'm assuming that pulling the lever has caused the brake to stick somewhere. As of right now the car will no longer inch forward in drive by itself. I have to press the accelerator to get her moving forward. I know there's an adjustment on the rear drum. I'll start there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

In other news, I've decided to compile all the maintenance records that came with the 93 Range Rover.

YearPartPriceFromOdometer
4/22/2002RT Front Caliper $206, LT Front Caliper $206
Front Rotors $270, Front Brake Pads $65,
Rear Brake Pads $49.00, Tie Rod End $20.85
4 Mich Tires $624.00, Labor $621.00
$2,167.00Reimels Auto Specialists131633
5/1/2002Handle ASSM Rear Liftgate$96.50Rovers North
5/1/2002End Cap Rear Bumper RH$59.50Rovers North
5/1/2002Rear Bumper$232.35Rovers North
5/14/2002Cover Fuse Box$6.25Rovers North
5/14/2002End Cap Rear Bumper$59.50Rovers North
5/14/2002Liftgate Assembly$665.00Rovers North
5/20/2002Switch LH Seat Adjustment$135.00Rovers North
5/25/2002Alignmnet, Trail arm bushing$255.06Sullivan Tire
6/3/2002Coil Spring FRT RH STD Blue$49.00Rovers North
6/3/2002Bulb Interior Lamp RNS044$3.25Rovers North
9/3/2002Coil Spring Rear/HD FRNT$65.00Rovers North
9/3/2002WAXOLY Rust Inhibitor CLR$15.95Rovers North
9/3/2002WAXOLY hardwax underbody$15.95Rovers North
9/5/2002Interior Mirror$12.50Rovers North
9/19/2002Lock Steering Column$285.00Rovers North
9/30/2002Dust Seal Rear Bumper$59.75Rovers North
9/30/2002Retainer BMPR Dust Seal$29.15Rovers North
10/12/2002Driving Lamp Set$125.00Rovers North
11/5/2002Rovers North Exhaust 90+ Range RO$529.00Rovers North
9/2/2003Switch RH SEAT ADJ$139.41Rovers North
10/28/2003Fuel Pump Sending Unit$229.00Rovers North
10/28/2003Harness fuel pump$42.74Rovers North
10/28/2003Fuel Filter$25.99Rovers North
11/11/2003Relay EFI V-8$35.95Rovers North
10/3/2005Lamp Assm Number Plate$24.95Rovers North
12/23/2005Exhaust Gaskets, Anti Freeze, Hose Clamp,Ignition wires, distr cap,rotor,air inlet tube$277.14Reimels Auto Specialists154008
1/4/2006Front Pipe 109" SW 2.6L$79.95Rovers North
1/4/2006Radiator & Oil Cooler$459.95Rovers North
1/24/2006Strut Liftgate x2$89.90Rovers North
2/2/2006Handle LH Door outer$130.00Rovers North
7/24/2006Switch LH Seat Adjustment$159.00Rovers North
2/8/2008Replaced Brake Lines front to rear$421.00J's Foreign Auto East Killingly162403
7/25/2008Knob Seat Squab SWT LH$5.84Rovers North
7/25/2008Starter Motor V-8 Bosch$299.95Rovers North

Rover is currently at 164k
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

The parking brake works similar to the rear drum brake on the back of any compact car. There are springs to retract the shoes when you let the lever back down. They don't wear out. Nor rarely break. If they did you would know it. Lots of scraping noises.

Chances are you have a problem with the cable. They get crusty inside from years of not being used. Most likely it hasn't been used in many years. The leverage of the lever coupled with your own arm strength means you can very easily and inadvertently overcome the corrosion and pill the cable through the crustyness. However when you release the lever, you are asking the brake shoe return springs to pull the cable back through the crust in the cable sleeve. They simply aren't strong enough.

You can easily confirm this by getting help from a buddy. Ask them to pull up and down on the lever from inside while you look at the end of the cable where it goes into the backing plate. you may be able to pull it back through from the underside.

Not all is lost. If you can access the uppermost point of the cable sleeve (right behind the lever within the center console) you can fix it. There are 4 screws at each corner of the center console storage box. Under that should be access to the top of the cable sleeve. Stick a pile of rags at the bottom that area and get a good spray lube. PBlaster work best. While you and your buddy are working the cable back and forth from top and bottom, have him spray shots of oil into the sleeve while it is being worked. Eventually the oil will make its way down through the cable sleeve and free up the cable.

Of course you could just replace them, but where's the fun it that. And I think they're pretty expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Okay - The plan for the weekend. Get the e-brake unstuck, and the bonnet/hood to stay closed. Stay tuned ...:)
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

In 99 percent of all the Classics I have ever fooled with, the usual issue with the hand brake is the pivot bolt bushing on the cable bell crank, where the cable pulls the bell crank which in turn yanks on the rod that expands the shoes. I seem to recall it is a 17mm bolt. You'll see it when you stick your head under there. Look at where the cable attaches. That's the bell crank. Loosen that pivot bolt and hose it down with WD40. Try the brake a few times. Keep that up until it's free and tighten the bolt again. If it binds up when you tighten it then you should plan to take it apart and uncrud it.
You might also consider pulling the drum off and re-re the expander and adjuster. They are undoubtedly full of old stiff grease.
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

They same method described above for the parking brake cable with the buddy system may also be applied to the hood latch too. :)
 

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Re: New to me 93 Range Rover - Get her running/build thread - Heavy Pics!

Probably not the cable. The cables are pretty well sealed with boots on both ends and are lined with HMMW plastic sleeve.
 
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