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I posted quite a while back about getting a RR HSE. I listened and looked for a clean 2007+. Found a 2008, one owner, only serviced at one dealer, with 94k. More miles than I wanted but my friend worked at the dealer it was traded in to and was able to talk to someone into selling it to me for way below market value. That being said it has a couple hopefully minor issues.

First off, when breaking hard and coming to a complete stop it seems to have a little clunk / play in the front end. I expected to have to replace various bushings and what not, just curious what everyones opinion is on that, common item?

Secondly, this only happened twice but in heavy ice/snow this past storm when i switched it into snow I got a "limited gears available" etc. warning. Quickly remedied by turning the vehicle off and on. Does not happen during normal operation. I was very stuck and giving it a lot of gas and sliding all over.

Third my belts make a high pitched squeak at start up and it continues unless I take it to the highway or somewhere where I need to floor it, like an on ramp. Then it's smooth and quiet as possible.

Forth, I had an issue that I resolved myself that was when breaking and coming to a stop the RPM's would drop to almost 0 and come back up, idle was erratic at best. I removed the MAF and cleaned. I removed the throttle body which was horrifically dirty and cleaned, reassembled and all is well. However, the check engine light came on during this period and did not go off after the cleaning. Would this cause a hard fault? My generic OBD reader will not link for some reason so I can't pull the codes.

Fifth, I get a tire pressure monitoring system fault, all of the tires are at the appropriate pressure, I'm assuming an RF sensor is bad, this is a burly second beach / snow car, do I need to replace or is there a way to bypass and make it shut up?

Lastly, I do not know when the oil was last changed, I am going to be dropping it off for a complete fluid change (oil, trans, diff if that's necessary) and inspection. Just curious for myself, if the oil is very old is there a warning lamp?

Anyway, any comments or suggestions are welcome. I bought this because I got rid of a jeep that I put between 2-4k miles a year on. I wanted something four wheel drive and different. I bought it outright with the knowledge it may cost some cash but I honestly fell in love the second I was behind the wheel. I live in a city so I walk to work daily so it really sees very little use but I want to get it up to spec. Any recommendations of things to change before they go bad etc. is welcome and I love this thing so much I'm already talking my fiancé into skipping another BMW and looking at a brand new Land Rover :)
 

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if it were me i'd get an iidtool bt which will tell you what is wrong in greater detail.

I'd get new air springs at least in the front (contact ddilinger on the site for some new bilstein airbag and strut replacements). Id also get the strut mounts i think ive seen those as separate parts. Bushings on the front upper and lower control arms. New sway bar links. Check the sunroof lines are clear with wd-40.

But that isnt what worries me. The whine is likely a new timing bel The transmission error is troubling.

I would drop your pan and get a new pan (filter integral) and 8 bottles of mercon SP at orlieys or ZF 6fluid. Fill the tranny the right way.

Check out topix read many threads.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I am new to Range Rovers, but on most cars a high pitched belt squeal usually means a belt is not sufficiently tightened. This will create other problems as the item that is supposed to be driven by the belt will not operate properly. For example, if the belt to the alternator is not tight, the alternator may not properly charge the battery.

I believe the belts on our vehicles have belt tensioners; it may be that one of your belt tensioners has failed and needs to be changed. Again, referring to generic car repair stuff, normally there is a maximum deflection specification for each belt. You push on the belt at its least supported location and measure the deflection. If it deflects too much (beyond spec) the belt need to be tightened. If a tensioner has failed, you may be able to identify the problem using this method; the belt will be pretty loose.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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73 Posts
i can't answer all your questions, look like you need new belt. old dry belt will make squeeze notice. Transmission/axle/transfer case fluid services are high $$$ services.
 

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1) the bushings in these trucks don't seem to hold up very well. The thing I replaced most in the front were the sway bar end links, but that doesn't mean those are what are making your noise.

2) all the thrashing you did may have overheated the transmission... if so, all the better that you're going to replace the fluid soon. don't drive like that. it usually doesn't get you un-stuck any better and you can smoke the tranny.

3) possibly due to not having the updated idler pulley that has a lip on it... the original style without the lip sometimes squeaks a little until it gets warmed up in cold weather. not an urgent situation, but something to look at when you change the belts.

4) carbon build up on these is pretty intense (or at least it was on my SC), I got a full BG fuel/air service, and subsequently i cleaned mine every 10k miles or so... may also want to replace the spark plugs and PCV valve.

5) most likely the batteries in one or more wheels are bad... you can either replace now... or disable using an IID tool or something similar by changing the car config to say that TPMS is not installed and then re-enable when you next get new tires and replace the units at the same time.
 
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