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Hello all. Just venturing into the Land Rover world. Bought a 1995 Land Rover Range Rover. It is somewhat sound but seems to have myriad small issues and some large ones. What have I gotten myself into? !! :)
First question When I drove it home and went to lock the doors only the drivers door locked, none of the others. This morning upon trying to unlock the drivers door I heard a click followed by something falling down inside the door.
I know I am going to have to go in and fix it. But is there something I should know, be aware of?

Superficially there is a lot of trim pieces to replace. Who is the go too for replacement parts, trim for this era of Rover.

Hoping this turns into a fun vehicle to have. Look forward to hearing from other car guys/Rover guys

By the way located in upstate NY above Albany.

Cheers
 

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Since you’re stateside, first ? is do you have an RRC or P38 Range Rover. 1995 had two Range Rover models.

Rovers North and Atlantic British are the largest US based parts suppliers, but there are plenty of smaller suppliers, including dismantlers.

UK based suppliers are actually price competitive, so that’s a possibility fo US owners as well. Occasionally, the local JLR dealer might have some stock, but it’s unlikely these days.


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Discussion Starter #3
Since you’re stateside, first ? is do you have an RRC or P38 Range Rover. 1995 had two Range Rover models.

Rivera North and Atlantic British are the largest US based parts suppliers, but there are plenty of smaller suppliers, including dismantlers.

UK based suppliers are actually price competitive, so that’s a possibility fo US owners as well. Occasionally, the local JLR dealer might have some stock, but it’s unlikely these days.


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Showing my naivety, how do I determine that?
They look different, RRC is the first gen, P38 is bigger second gen, looks more boxy, I think Jeep Grand Wagoneet-like.

More simply, round or rectangular headlamps?

Here’s my 95 RRC SWB


Here’s a P38

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I would think it is the RRC
When I had gotten my 91
It was on a whim...
I also thought....,what have I gotten myself into....
Sooo...,
I have found out over time that the Range Rover classics are fun to work on and drive.. you will seldom drive around and see another classic...,
There is tons of information out there
So enjoy....,
When I got the 92....
I thought on that one ...
And got a good one
It wasn’t running and I replaced the transmission very soon after I started driveing it...
Good stuff
Good luck with your classic
 

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95s are the odd year state-side, as LRNA sold two models of RR, which is why it’s important to distinguish classic or P38. You could look at the engine, but these rigs are so old that unless you know the engine is original, the engine alone isn’t enough info to distinguish softdash(RRC) or P38. The dealers parts dept could never keep it straight...

ISTR, in the UK & ROW, the soft dashes were known as 94MY. I have no idea why the NAS soft dash was 95MY.
 

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Jrjajs - another part source is a parts truck. It’s not uncommon for RRC owners to have multiple RRCs, with only one runner, the rest being donors.

With 95 RRCs, this is even more likely, as 95 RRCs have many one-off parts, I.e., 95 only. Windscreen is one example, the dashboard bits another. Good news here is that many Disco parts fit the 95 RRC, as the 95 is really just a re-skinned Disco.

Within 95RRCs, there are differences besides wheelbase. For NAS mkt, 95 LWBs have build dates in 94, while SWBs are early 95. The rear wiper motor is an example of the part diff. I know, because I had a 95 LWB donor. Dimensions & wiring harness were diff, so you can’t direct swap the rear wiper motor btwn SWB & LWB without some mods.

Btwn LWB & SWB, front door bits are directly interchangeable, rear passenger doors, only some pieces, due to different door lengths. The plastic bits are close to unobtanium, but here’s where 3D printing might be viable. Ther are people printing parts for RRCs, I have some on my SWB.

The windscreens on 95 RRCs are unique to 95 MY, mounting is different from prior years. Good news here is you can use Disco screens for 95, if your ok with non-heated screens. The 95 RRC heated screens may no longer be available from Pilkington. Last I looked was in 2014, when I replaced mine. That alone was $1500 installed. I believe my shop sourced it from Atlantic British for about $900, but shipping was another 200 or so.

If you want your rig to be original, be prepared to spend a lot of money and time chasing unicorns. If you just want a runner, you have more options, but regular maintenance is key fir you sanity as an owner.


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Locks
Door locks are pretty simple, but can be finicky and intimidating because of all the linkage rods. When you unlock the passenger side door, do the others all work? If so the problem is localized to the drivers side door and the clunk you heard was likely an issue with the door lock actuator or the linkage to the latch.

I would pull the door panel and take a look inside. Removing it is easy and once you have done it a couple of times is really quick to take it off and put it back on.
1. Pry the trim around the interior lock button upwards. It has a T-shaped clip that goes into a slot on the lock button guide. Slide it up vertically to remove it.
2. Remove the two screws in the bottom of cup/handle in the armrest. Once they are removed, the plastic cup for the handle lifts out vertically.
3. Remove the one screw behind the inside release handle and then slide out the plastic piece behind the release handle out and forward to remove it.
4. Now the door panel is just held on with plastic studs. I find it easiest to start from one of the bottom corners and pry the panel outward. Work your way around until it is free.
5. The top edge can stick because of the rubber window trim overlapping it. You can slide the rubber window trim upward if needed so it doesn't catch the panel.

Once the door panel is free, you will still be tethered by the two speaker wire connections and the simply unclip and you can completely remove the panel. There should be a plastic sheet covering the openings in the door held on with some messy adhesive around the edges. You can just peel it back carefully. Take care not to tear it or get the glue on your hands as it is a pain to wash off. Generally I leave one edge attached to make it easy to realign and just fold it over and use masking tape to hold it out of my way while working. For the lock I would leave the front edge and top left corner attached as most of the stuff you need to get to is on the back half of the door.

Now you can start to see what is going on. The power lock actuator is on a big brass colored plate held on with four 10mm bolts. Before removing anything I would operate the lock and handles while looking inside the best you can to see what it going on. The actuator moves a short horizontal linkage that goes to a pivot hidden inside the door. The fulcrum of the pivot is a white plastic fastener that mounts from the inside and you can see the back side of it protruding through a square hole in the door. The pivot connects to a vertical linkage that connects to one of the three lock connections on the latch.

When the actuator is moved, it will trigger all the other lock actuators to move also. When one of the other lock actuators is moved it triggers this one to move. Based on the symptoms the most likely issue is that one of the linkages connecting the power lock actuator to the latch has come loose. If so it is just a matter of figuring out what is disconnected or broken and replacing it.

Trim
Wood trim pieces can be refinished or reveneered. Some of the plastic trim pieces are commonly available, some are expensive, and some are pretty much impossible to find. Depending which ones you need and budget, eBay can be a good source for used parts. If you let the forum know which ones you are looking for we can give more focused advice on who to source from.
 

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Be careful with the plastic pieces when you take apart the door. These are decades old and brittle, but worse, hard to replace, unless you have a parts truck, which is what I used to renew 2 of my SWB’s doors.


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